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Old 09-15-2009, 12:56 AM   #946
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Default Front Spool/Differential

Hi,

Is there a way to just lock the front differential that comes with the kit, so that it acts like a spool?

I'm going to just try not adding the ball bearings and tightening it all the way down... has anyone tried this?

Thanks!
-AJ

Last edited by spam77; 09-15-2009 at 01:58 AM.
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Old 09-15-2009, 02:52 AM   #947
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Hi,

Is there a way to just lock the front differential that comes with the kit, so that it acts like a spool?

I'm going to just try not adding the ball bearings and tightening it all the way down... has anyone tried this?

Thanks!
-AJ
I wouldnt waste your time trying that AJ as there is massive risk in snapping the diff screw if it's too tight, if you do decide to do it pick up the titanium option or Pick up a V3 spool with the 44mm HD steel uni's.
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Old 09-15-2009, 12:41 PM   #948
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AJ,

I think that you wold be better off with the actual spool kit for the cyclone, as well as the pro diff kit for the rear. I will bring mine out on Sunday if you are at DHW as I have the spool kit on mine and you can check it out.

On another note though how are you guys balancing your S left to right? Is useing two scales the only real option with the stock shock towers? I know on some of the touring cars there is a hole in the middle of the shock towers that you can run a string through and lift your car with to see if your car is balanced left to right.
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:19 PM   #949
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AJ,

I think that you wold be better off with the actual spool kit for the cyclone, as well as the pro diff kit for the rear. I will bring mine out on Sunday if you are at DHW as I have the spool kit on mine and you can check it out.

On another note though how are you guys balancing your S left to right? Is useing two scales the only real option with the stock shock towers? I know on some of the touring cars there is a hole in the middle of the shock towers that you can run a string through and lift your car with to see if your car is balanced left to right.
vasso and Jseay,

Yeah, was trying to avoid spending money on a spool. When I built the TC5 kit... in order to make a front spool you basically just skip putting the bearings in and tightened it down. I think I'll go ahead and gamble and go with the makeshift Cyclone-S spool... since I really don't want a front differential anyways, I can just try running that until it blows up... then get the spool kit.

The reason I bought a Cylcone-S was the smaller upfront budget involved... To see if I can make a competitive car from just the $160. So, I'll see how it works with as minimal added investment as possible. Although, I may not even be that good/experienced of a driver to even notice the subtleties between a makeshift/real spool yet or even the pro rear diff for that matter!

Thanks again!
-AJ
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:25 PM   #950
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AJ,

I think for the type of racing we are doing that the front diff will be fine, until your budget allows for something different.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:36 PM   #951
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I have a "S" and I also tried to just tighten up the front diff to make a poor mans spool, and yes the diff screw did snap right at the head. It worked for about 4 or 5 races but snapped during a practice run. Looking for a spool now, everywhere I look they are out of stock!
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:19 PM   #952
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My Atomic, R/C Warehouse, & Advantage Hobby are showing they have it. When I searched I used the stock number HBS61045.
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Old 09-17-2009, 10:12 PM   #953
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My Atomic, R/C Warehouse, & Advantage Hobby are showing they have it. When I searched I used the stock number HBS61045.
If you run a spool or oneway in the front you will need to upgrade the center pulleys to aluminium ones. This also means you need to upgrade the layshaft which holds the center pulleys.

You can probably get away with only changing the left center pulley (for the front belt) i think the current layshaft still has holes to put the plastic ones on, but i never tried it.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:16 AM   #954
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Thanks for the heads up MD and Mangoman!
Now my next question, should I just go shopping for the TC kit and forget about upgrading?
I am going to jump into 17.5 RCGT with both feet. they strated a series here and I am going to do it!
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:45 AM   #955
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Dont know what RCGT is but if you are happy with the Cyclone S then i would stick with it.

Theoretically the tub chassis can give you more grip than the full spec car due to the flex. Although its always nice having a shiny new car.
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:07 AM   #956
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Its just with the S version I am finding out that if you make one upgrade(spool) you have to make 2 more(pulleys and CVDs). I am thinking to get the car to where you need it, it might be better to get the race kit? I really like the S but getting it to where it needs to be...
RCGT is any touring chassis, 17.5 bl, realistic bodies(no race bodies) and realistic wheels and HPI x pattern tires(no slicks). Makes for fun racing, fast, and old chassis's are still competitive due to the tire limits.
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:56 PM   #957
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Default asphalt setup

Hi,

Does anyone have a starting point setup sheet for the Cyclone-S? Specifically for low or high traction asphalt.

Thanks for the info spool info... so, sounds like I have at least I've got 4 to 5 race days before I bust that screw... maybe i'll just switch it back to a diff after 3 races to see how I like the diff. I like the TC spool/diff combo thing maybe i'll get that when time's right.

Thanks,
AJ
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Old 09-21-2009, 11:00 PM   #958
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spam77 - Probably, the easiest thing to do is to look at the setup sheets for the Cyclone and use that as a starting point. It will be easier to find one for low traction asphalt.
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:41 AM   #959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boyntoncyclone View Post
I have a "S" and I also tried to just tighten up the front diff to make a poor mans spool, and yes the diff screw did snap right at the head. It worked for about 4 or 5 races but snapped during a practice run. Looking for a spool now, everywhere I look they are out of stock!
I am running a Cyclone S. I also have a TC but is concentrating on my S because i want to show it can contend in expert RCGT with the other cars that are 3x more....

I am running the diffs front and back. I don't use a spool because i don't want to buy anything else for it.

Front:
Stock Silver Springs
70wt oil
stock plastic toe blocks
1 deg toe out
-1 deg camber
Shock Position:
top-3rd from inside
bottom-outside most hole

Rear:
Stock Silver Springs
60wt oil
Stock Plastic toe blocks
-1 deg camber
Shock Position:
top-3rd from inside
bottom-middle hole

Stock Dogbones front and back.

I run the diff regular because i don't like the initial push the spool give the car. The spool does have more rip coming out of the turn, but with low traction surfaces as well as RCGT class, the diff works perfect. I probably wouldn't run a diff for mod, but for 17.5 and 13.5, diff should be fine.

I TQ'd this weekend by 2 laps and a half in a 7 minute race. I forgot to put o-rings back when i cleaned the front diff cups for the main so the dogbone popped out in front while steering on power. Otherwise, i ran away with it.

ANyway, you really do not need to spend the $$ if you don't have to. I even used Xpattern D comps and worked like a charm. Best of luck.
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Old 09-22-2009, 01:23 PM   #960
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Charlie,

That's good setup info. I think that all to often I am obsessed with getting the latest carbon graphite car parts and may be looking at the wrong things when it comes to running my cars. Speed is a result of car setup and the ability to drive. No amount of money spent on hopups or carbon parts is going to make me faster if I don’t understand why I am putting them on and what impact they should be having on the car.

Better to wait until I can recognize a deficiency and then upgrade that part, as at that point I will have exceeded the capability of the part/car with my driving, and will better understand why I am doing it.
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