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Old 08-07-2007, 12:03 PM   #601
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Hey RCzombies,
I still race the Pro3 ( I like being six years behind in technology) but i picked up a Cyclone S to tinker with. I think the all plastic chassis should be fine for 540 parking lot racing.
you're not behind.. the Pro3 is still faster than the Losi..
the tub chassis is fine for parking lot racing... if you need a little more consistancy..you can always upgrade to a CF chassis.
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Old 08-08-2007, 08:15 PM   #602
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mangoman, can you give us an update on the 3racing motor mount? Were able to stop the bearings from binding?
I purchased the 3 motor mounts but didnt use them I remember that the distance between the two bearings was different from the standard mounts but dont remember which.

I had problems with binding in the diffs with the bulkheads (but noone else seems to complain about it)????? **SHRUG**
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Old 08-09-2007, 12:30 AM   #603
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If anyone is looking for an extra tub chassis, let me know. I bought one thinking that I may convert my Hot Bodies Cyclone to the tub chassis so that I can race on the rough parking lot but have decided against that due to my electronics not fitting without retrofitting the chassis.

Will sell for 13 shipped within US. It is out of the packaging but includes the chassis and the 2 rubber padding bars that came with it for the battery slots.

PM me if interested.
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Old 08-12-2007, 06:20 PM   #604
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Anyone know how to make the rear body posts fit with regular hpi bodies? I have a bunch of old hpi 190mm bodies that I want to use.
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:59 AM   #605
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OK guys, I need some help!
I raced for the first time today with a Brushless stock motor (Novak 13.5SS) and I have come across a problem. I cant get through a race without my rear diff screw coming loose. I manage to get about 3 or 4 laps, then it comes loose, making the car nightmare to drive. I tried re-tightening it, putting a new heavy duty screw and nut in, using loctite, but no matter what i did it still came loose.
I'm using a spool in the front, and aluminium centre pulleys with a direct driveshaft (if that makes any difference). I am using the standard kit diff that comes with the Cyclone S
Any help would be appreciated!
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Old 08-19-2007, 09:36 AM   #606
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would it be bad to run the tub cyclone without the motor guard?

I got a traxxas brushless setup ($150 with coupon code from tower) and the motor is a bit long to fit in there with the motor guard
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:25 PM   #607
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anyone looking for a cyclone S or 3racing purple optional parts or used HB cyclone chassis set check out this thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...21#post3210221

will sell seperate.
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Old 08-19-2007, 10:07 PM   #608
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Do you have any better pics? How much for the chassis?
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:59 AM   #609
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OK guys, I need some help!
I raced for the first time today with a Brushless stock motor (Novak 13.5SS) and I have come across a problem. I cant get through a race without my rear diff screw coming loose. I manage to get about 3 or 4 laps, then it comes loose, making the car nightmare to drive. I tried re-tightening it, putting a new heavy duty screw and nut in, using loctite, but no matter what i did it still came loose.
I'm using a spool in the front, and aluminium centre pulleys with a direct driveshaft (if that makes any difference). I am using the standard kit diff that comes with the Cyclone S
Any help would be appreciated!
Anyone?
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:21 AM   #610
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Originally Posted by turtle View Post
OK guys, I need some help!
I raced for the first time today with a Brushless stock motor (Novak 13.5SS) and I have come across a problem. I cant get through a race without my rear diff screw coming loose. I manage to get about 3 or 4 laps, then it comes loose, making the car nightmare to drive. I tried re-tightening it, putting a new heavy duty screw and nut in, using loctite, but no matter what i did it still came loose.
I'm using a spool in the front, and aluminium centre pulleys with a direct driveshaft (if that makes any difference). I am using the standard kit diff that comes with the Cyclone S
Any help would be appreciated!
Quite a few have had issues with that. Some have tried the AE diff screw and nut... It worked for me for a few runs while I was waiting on alum outdrives. Once I got those I went back to the original screws and haven't had any diff issues since.
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:06 AM   #611
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Originally Posted by Deves View Post
Do you have any better pics? How much for the chassis?
the chassis is used and comes with shock towers,top plate for $50.00
i dont have anymore pictures of the box. cyclone S in brand new, unbuilt.this also comes with moorespeed stratus body.
Attached Thumbnails
Tub Cyclone `S`-p1030112.jpg   Tub Cyclone `S`-p1030113.jpg   Tub Cyclone `S`-p1030114.jpg  
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:15 PM   #612
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Originally Posted by padailey View Post
Quite a few have had issues with that. Some have tried the AE diff screw and nut... It worked for me for a few runs while I was waiting on alum outdrives. Once I got those I went back to the original screws and haven't had any diff issues since.
If I put a black Cyclone diff in it, do you think that would cure it?
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:52 AM   #613
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If I put a black Cyclone diff in it, do you think that would cure it?
Probably ... I've seen this issue on the Cyclone thread but not near as often as the "S" thread. I don't think much of the "S" diffs so I'd think the Blk Cyclone ones would solve the issue for the most part. I switched to the 3racing aluminum and like I said have had no issues since.
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Old 08-21-2007, 11:59 AM   #614
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turtle? Are you using 3 racing bulkheads?
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:47 AM   #615
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turtle? Are you using 3 racing bulkheads?
No, just using the standard kit ones
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