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Old 07-08-2007, 08:11 AM   #541
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Get the carbon graphite c hubs. In hmm i think its 3 years of racing (pro 4 and cyclone) i think ive only ever broken one.

The Part No. is 73518
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Old 07-09-2007, 02:20 AM   #542
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Default Internal Ratio + Runtime?

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Originally Posted by padailey View Post
The middle pulleys where the both belts meet on each side of the spur. Several here have mentioned stripping them. I haven't had that problem but 3racing has aluminum pulleys that have plastic gear teeth (16,17,18) that can be interchanged thus lowering the internal drive (2.43, 2.29, 2.16). That may solve your gearing problem also. If you changed the ratio to 2.16, 50 pinion, 88 spur would put you right at 51. Also I know there are some spurs out there smaller than 88. Our LHS has some but can't remember the company name right now.
Hey guys, was wondering if anyone can tell me if I was to change the internal ratio how would that affect my runtime, we run 5min races on a large track with a 51mm roll out, large straights with alot of twisty stuff also, I cut it close as it is to finish so dont have much battery left as we are limited to 1500 Nicads. Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-09-2007, 07:27 AM   #543
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Someone was saying in the cyclone thread that a larger 18T pulley is meant to make the drivetrain smoother. Dont know if it helps much at all.

Not many people are going to be racing with max 1500 nicads so i think its going to be a case of trial an error yourself.

You can also try charging at a less amps but your pack will lose punch if you do that
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:41 AM   #544
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Originally Posted by mangoman View Post
Padailey,

Yeah thats a strange set of shims you are looking for. I am currently running a plastic deck on one of my cars and man i have the wierdest number of shims for it to sit flush. I just kept shimming it till it look right but im pretty sure its not sitting entirely flat.

I had an hpi shim kit which came with like .2 .3 and .4 washers so i just kept adding what i needed on standard purple washers.

With the CF upper and lower decks you shouldnt need any shims for it. Are you sure you need them?
Well no I'm not sure... but everything worked ok when I originally got the stuff and followed the directions. Now I've switched back and forth between plastic and CF and of course now I don't know what shims etc went with what parts. That's why I looked at the 3racing directions and found those shim sizes. I'm almost positive though that the steering post is long enough that there will be a gap if I don't shim using the CF top deck. I'll be racing on Wednesday so I'll check for sure then.

I'll have to check of the HPI shim kit... that might be the ticket. My problem is the only shims my LHS has are 3, 5, and 6 mm... of course I need 4mm's.
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:58 AM   #545
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I do not agree that the chassis has a problem. My 10 year old son has beat the car on our local track. He has yet to break a chassis where you say they are weak. Yes the stock c hubs suck. I replaced his with the carbon units. And with a P dub bumper he does not go thru c hubs or knuckles. Since may he has broke 1 cub and 1 knuckle. The car is very durable.

You do not need the alloy suspension mounts. They will do more damage than good. I raced his car today and the car works very well in stock form.

Ohh and this helps, do not hit the wall and you will not break. Try it. It helps.
Well if you haven't broken a chassis that's great... but I've broken two of them. Both in the back and one also broke where the hole in the side to access the motor screws. One time the blocks were shimmed up ... so I thought that was the problem so on the next one I did not shim it at all. However both times I was hit from the rear. Once was pretty hard the other was not. The plastic chassis's are cheap enough that replacing them isn't a big deal... especially in your case if the one you have does happen to break. In my case it isn't worth it since neither chassis lasted me more than 4 race nights.

Also the plastic pivot blocks work fine until you want to put in some anti -dive/squat. If you want those adjustments you need the alum blocks since they have the rotating pivot balls which allow these adjustments. Otherwise the plastic are fine.
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:03 AM   #546
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Got a question. I just finished putting my Cyclone S together. I think the front belt is rubbing on the chassis cross member that the belt passes through. I have tried to rotate the diff bearing carriers I've tried every position up to the point of installing it 180 deg from stock. I also have the belt tensioner installed, but that does not seem to have helped any. Short of pulling the cross member out and "installing" more clearance is there anything else I can do? Is there any way to gage how much belt tension there should be?
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Old 07-12-2007, 01:24 AM   #547
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What do you mean by the cross member? Can you take a picture.

Also with the belt tensioner make sure its loose. If anything the belt tensioner should be just very very slightly off the belt
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:47 AM   #548
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.

Last edited by BatteryMan; 07-12-2007 at 10:41 AM. Reason: Wrong place
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Old 07-12-2007, 10:43 AM   #549
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I'm at work and can't snap a photo, but if you look in the manual on page 9 its the part that the belt passes through that is bolted to the chassis, right behind the front diff. I've moved the tensioner off the belt so it barely touches it at all.

Here is the link to the manual:
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/manuals/66403.pdf

The rub is not horrible, but doesn't sound good. I just don't want to be racing and have the belt shred or snap on me because it's worn thin.
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:29 AM   #550
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It shouldnt be rubbing, if it is you have probably not built the car properly or you have defective parts (which is unlikely)

Why do you think it is rubbing and how have you confirmed that it is rubbing there?

What non-standard parts do you have on the car?
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Old 07-16-2007, 03:17 PM   #551
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It sounds like its rubbing. Its not a constant rub only under breaking usually. I double checked my assembly, as far as I can tell its put together right. The only thing I can think of is I swapped the the cross members, put the front in the back and back in the front. I'll have to double check that. The only option part I have is the belt tensioner.
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Old 07-17-2007, 09:10 AM   #552
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If its occuring under braking its more than likely the belt slipping on the pulley, but usually you will only get that happening with a big mod motor and HARSH braking.
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Old 07-17-2007, 09:50 AM   #553
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Well I'm only running a 19T money motor. I guess I'll have to live with it because I cann't figure it out for the life of me. It's not THAT bad, but compared to some guy whos cars are silent, mine sounds like a blender.
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Old 07-17-2007, 12:32 PM   #554
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Hmmm i dont think a 19T should make the belt skip you probably dont need the belt tensioner for the 19T either.

So the noise is only happening under braking? And is it happening when you hold if off the ground. And if so can you confirm its coming from the front of the car when you have it next to your ear?

BTW i hope you threw out the kit C Hubs and replaced them with the proper carbon graphite ones.....
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Old 07-17-2007, 05:56 PM   #555
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Yup I snapped a C hub the other night, the stock ones are like paper mache. I replaced them with the 73518 parts. If I take the motor out of the equation, I can roll the car on the floor fast enough to make the noise. I put my ear to it while rolling it, It sounds like its coming from the front. I bought the tensioner as I thought it would help. That was before I found out that you could change the tension by rotating the diff bearing holders. I if I hold it off the ground it will make the noise, but to a lesser degree. Also are the diff pullies supposed to have side to side play in them?
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