maister_18

i think same screw as you use in your chassis

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

The part number is Z700

I dont know if they are normal metric grub screws or not, but when you assemble use a little bit of loctite on the grub screws, even if you get the right ones....

bullfrog_racer

Hey, can you guys tellm eis the PRO4 almost the same as the CYclone S, ie share alot of the same parts and design?

Thanks

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Mainly suspension parts. Arms, knuckles, hub carriers.
The wheel axles should be the same but not the cvds.

Pivot blocks are the same but not the FF RR blocks. Although if you have a cyclone S you should upgrade the tub to a CF deck if you want to use pivot blocks and you will also need washers to shim the arms properly.

padailey

iTrader: (11)

The FF and RR blocks work... the FR and RF are different because those are the ones that the belt passes under.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Where do the FF/RR blocks work? If im not mistaken they are not the same as zero degree pivot blocks.

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

Hi guys

I just wanted to see if anyone had replaced the plastic bushings in the steering on the Cyclone S? If so what size bearings did you use? I bought some and they are a tad to big.

Cheers
Adrian

TcEcho

Here are the ones I used in my S.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD101&P=7

academygaz

Cyclone S FF is 2.5, same as Pro 4/Cyclone alloy ones..
Cyclone S RR is 3.0, same as Pro 4/Cyclone alloy ones.

Anyway, my '3R Edition':

My Cyclone:

Body here.

Chassis:





Any Q's, just ask.

padailey

iTrader: (11)

You can get the pro4 FF/RR blocks anywhere from 0 deg to 3 deg in .5 degree increments. Or are we just not talking about the same thing? academygaz has them on his car.... well maybe they are the 3R version but they are the same as the Pro4.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Actually i thought the inner blocks were labelled differently on the Pro 4 they are labelled FR RF however you cant use them as zero degree pivot blocks cause the screw spacings are different.

academygaz

Labelled on a Pro 4:

FF - '2.5' (Usable on Cyclone/S)
FR - 'F/R' (Not usable on Cyclone/S)
RF - 'R/F' (Not usable on Cyclone/S)
RR - '3.0' (Usable on Cyclone/S)

For some reason, the carbon HB and 3R chassis' have holes drilled and countersunk for the 'F/R' and 'R/F' pivots, but as padailey says, the belt rubs on them if you use them. Hope this clears things up.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Low friction belt

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Ok just to clear things up with the suspension mounts. With regards to FF RR i mixed these up with what the Pro 4 uses as F/R blocks. Infact there is not really any such thing as an FF RR block as FF and RR blocks are the same. I assume they are labelled as FF RR on the Cyclone S so people can easily identify which block should go on the front and which on the rear. Especially since you really dont want to have a zero degree pivot block on the rear of your car.

When taking the parts of the pro 4. The pivot blocks (the 2.5 and 3.0 degree blocks) can be taken and fitted to a cyclone. However, it is not recommended that you fit the aluminium pivot blocks to a plastic tub chassis as i believe this places stress on the chassis and can snap it (at least thats my reasoning for why my chassis snapped).

Further to this if you use the aluminium pivot blocks (ie 2.5 3.0) you will need to take the pivot balls from the Pro 4 kit (the Cyclone S does not use pivot balls) and you will also need to get two 3x6x0.75mm shims for each pivot block.

If you upgrade to aluminium F/R R/F blocks on the cyclone S, again you will need the two pivot balls and two shims for each F/R or R/F block. However, for the F/R and R/F block you instead require thicker shims of the size 3x6x2mm.

Sorry for all the confusion and i hope the above is correct.

bullfrog_racer

I'm pretty impressed with my Cyclone S, I lined up on my first race day against about as much carbon fibre and alloy at the tour de france! I thought I would get toasted with my plastic tub chassis Cyclone S as I was up against Yoko's tricked out TA05's TC4's etc. I won my first 3 B-Grade races and made the A final, I started 6th and if I had of avoided putting the car on its lid in the final few laps would have got 4-5th!. The only changes I have made so far was to locktite the diffs (which didnt budge all day after that!) and ran some Sorex 28R tyres.

I am now keen to complete a few upgrades 1st I am going to do front universals and cups, any other suggestions??

Cheers