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Old 10-17-2006, 01:33 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by bigair78
Well the reason I ask is because of how the stock upper chassis is lower on the front left and right. On the picture of the fully upgraded "S" on the hotbodies site it still has the stock upper chassis.




Funny you noticed that but, if you look in your instruction manual, it clearly lists the hop-ups and lists the parts I purchased as being fully compatible. If they are going to compete with xray, having the ability to go from a "sport" to a "pro" better be totally interchangeable. Like I said, I will know on Thursday when my chassis parts come in. In addition, I think they left the TUB chassis on to give the "S" it's own identity, so people wont feel they got stuck with a "lower class model"
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Old 10-17-2006, 05:34 AM   #227
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well i put all my parts from my hara to the S chassis to see what itl look like and the plastic upper deck didnt work with the fuly hoped up S. I had to put the carbon one on.
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:09 AM   #228
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Default For those interested in aluminum outdrives for the Pro4

Send me an IM and I will reply with my contacts email address. Ensure that you mention me so he knows where the email came from. And no, I am not getting a kickback. I am paying $31 dollars a set just like everyone else. He will start milling the parts on Friday.
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Old 10-18-2006, 01:59 AM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kid TT-01
well i put all my parts from my hara to the S chassis to see what itl look like and the plastic upper deck didnt work with the fuly hoped up S. I had to put the carbon one on.
Why would you (or anyone) hop up a Cyclone and stick with the plastic deck? The purpose of hopping up is to lighten, strengthen and lessen. For the record, the woven graphite upper deck fits on the stock S. I received my upper deck before the main chassis and to see if all was well, put it on. It fit. The only difference are the outer holes on the stock upper chassis. They do not exist on the hopped up part so it looks a bit retarded to have areas where something should screw onto and nothing is inserted. If anyone is mystified by what I am saying, I am speaking of the post in front of the servo mount on the left and the battery strap holding mount on the right. Those two posts are rendered useless once you step up to the woven upper chassis.

Cyclone blades fit the ends of Pro4 universals. It is the length of the universals that differ, not the end that goes into the outdrive itself.
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Old 10-18-2006, 02:49 AM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
Why would you (or anyone) hop up a Cyclone and stick with the plastic deck? The purpose of hopping up is to lighten, strengthen and lessen. For the record, the woven graphite upper deck fits on the stock S. I received my upper deck before the main chassis and to see if all was well, put it on. It fit. The only difference are the outer holes on the stock upper chassis. They do not exist on the hopped up part so it looks a bit retarded to have areas where something should screw onto and nothing is inserted. If anyone is mystified by what I am saying, I am speaking of the post in front of the servo mount on the left and the battery strap holding mount on the right. Those two posts are rendered useless once you step up to the woven upper chassis.

Cyclone blades fit the ends of Pro4 universals. It is the length of the universals that differ, not the end that goes into the outdrive itself.


1st of all, i have the hara cyclone, i only put all the parts from that onto the S to see what it would look like, it now back together. its not like i went out and bought every part.
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Old 10-18-2006, 08:37 AM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kid TT-01
1st of all, i have the hara cyclone, i only put all the parts from that onto the S to see what it would look like, it now back together. its not like i went out and bought every part.
Simmer down. You have a Hara, good. Not trying to get into a pissing contest with you. I was only referencing how you said it didnt fit (upper deck). Leave it at that.
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Old 10-18-2006, 04:34 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
Why would you (or anyone) hop up a Cyclone and stick with the plastic deck? The purpose of hopping up is to lighten, strengthen and lessen. For the record, the woven graphite upper deck fits on the stock S. I received my upper deck before the main chassis and to see if all was well, put it on. It fit. The only difference are the outer holes on the stock upper chassis. They do not exist on the hopped up part so it looks a bit retarded to have areas where something should screw onto and nothing is inserted. If anyone is mystified by what I am saying, I am speaking of the post in front of the servo mount on the left and the battery strap holding mount on the right. Those two posts are rendered useless once you step up to the woven upper chassis.

Cyclone blades fit the ends of Pro4 universals. It is the length of the universals that differ, not the end that goes into the outdrive itself.
We need pics!!!!!SOON!!!
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:11 PM   #233
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Originally Posted by bigair78
We need pics!!!!!SOON!!!
I am installing the main woven chassis tonight. If I am done at a decent hour, will post. I expect my aluminum outdrives any day now. Will let you fellas know what the weight difference is between @ and woven.
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Old 10-19-2006, 10:25 AM   #234
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Default Broken Chassis

Ok I broke my chassis towards the rear the other night and I think I know why so thought I'd share to perhaps save someone else my grief. I had a XXX-S previous to my "S" and to set anti-dive/anti-squat you turned around the pivot blocks to achieve the effect (with the "S" it appears the blocks are used more for toe which I hadn't figured out yet). So I was messing around with a setup which raised the rear blocks 1.5mm. I did that and was losing traction coming on power out of a corner. So I decided to take the shims out from under the RR block. But since the RF block doesn't have pivot balls I think I was putting too much pressure on the chassis by forcing the blocks to be on a different level (RF +1.5, RR 0). One little hit on the rear and it cracked around one of the screws that secures the RF block. So if you want to set anti-dive/anti-squat I'd get the FR and/or RF blocks with pivot balls.

Of course if my theory is incorrect please someone correct me... I won't mind I'm still learning about the car. If I am correct I hope I saved someone a broken chassis.

Paul
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:32 PM   #235
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The main chassis and upper chassis install is complete..talk about weight difference. Placed both the S chassis and the woven graphite on the "libra scale" and it was like placing a fat kid on a see-saw with a handful of ethiopians . The car is now MUCH lighter and if anyone has 87 dollars to spend, Horizon has the chassis' in stock. You dont have to re-adjust your droop but you do lose the nifty carrying handle in the back and the motor support brace. The area where the endbell of the motor is slotted, so it sits a little bit lower. Aside of that, when my new diffs come in, its snap-away-a-rooni. Mine is a little blinged because I had Hara Pro 4 parts from my.....Pro 4 extras.
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Old 10-22-2006, 09:28 AM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxpitbull
....but you do lose the nifty carrying handle in the back....
Um you can borrow my carrying handle

Looks like ill be upgrading my decks earlier than i expected
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Old 10-22-2006, 01:59 PM   #237
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That looks familiar!!
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Old 10-22-2006, 02:24 PM   #238
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Oh is that where yours broke as well?

I have to admit i shouldnt have been driving the car at the time as it was really taily. I wasnt hitting the barriers that hard but they were solid timber 4x2s bolted to the ground so they were hard. Further to which i dont think its good for cars to sideswipe objects.

I wasnt trying any anti-dive/anti-squat or anything like that however the pivot block was a very tight fit on to the chassis. I was only using pivot blocks with the standard platic RF and FR blocks.

Still i was surprised that the chassis could just snap like that, it was only a few meets old
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:48 PM   #239
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Yep mine broke pretty close to the same spot... not all the way across so I glued it and used it for a night until my diff melted. Not having much luck so far with the ole "S". Little disappointed cause the LHS can't get the parts I need so now I'll have to find them. Just puts me down for another week or so. Can't wait till LHS gets some more parts support for Hot Bodies and/or I get some spare parts built up.
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:54 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padailey
Yep mine broke pretty close to the same spot... not all the way across so I glued it and used it for a night until my diff melted. Not having much luck so far with the ole "S". Little disappointed cause the LHS can't get the parts I need so now I'll have to find them. Just puts me down for another week or so. Can't wait till LHS gets some more parts support for Hot Bodies and/or I get some spare parts built up.
http://www.titaniumracing.com/product.asp?prodnum=415
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/D...d=&BrandId=HBS

there ya go.

With the woven main chassis, there are no accommodations for the carry handle.
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