dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

Thank you for the info!
I am going to give them a try on the carpet.
Dave

warnos16v

iTrader: (2)

Hi I have had a Cyclone "s" for the past month awsome car and I have been slowly upgrading allot of the parts via HK suppliers on Ebay. I have found the info on this thread very helpful so thanks to everyone for the info..

I have recently purchased a sway bar for the front and rear and its the 3racing one... I know what everyone is going to say.. you should have got the HPI/HotBodies one. I didn't realise this until I had already purchased the 3Racing one and then read the bad reports about the sway bar on here..

So if anyone has this sway bar I have an issue with it.. The front and rear bars seem to be the wrong way around as from what is labelled in the pack.

The front sway bar was bigger then the rear sway bar. Not sure if this was meant to be the case. So I swapped the front bar with the rear bar and now they fit ok.. is this correct?? They are very loose in the mount and slid left to right very easy also not sure if this is correct..

Am I better off ditching the 3Racing sway bar and getting the correct Hot Bodies one?

Also I have purchased the Version 3 Spool but its the kit that does not have the tooth pulley with it.. Was it meant to have this pulley or are they sold without it?

I am having problems find the pulley I need for the Ver 3 Spool and a supplier that has it in stock..

Thanks

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I've been running my Cyclone S in my local club Spec Sedan class but I'm looking to move to the regular Stock class. We allow Lipo battery packs and 13.5 BL motors. My plan is to use a Novak 17.5 motor in combination with a Team Wave RB-30 speed control and an SMC 3200mAh Lipo. Does anyone know if there are any issues with the fitment of a BL motor in a box stock Cyclone S?

okiedoak20

I have been runinng 17.5 and 13.5 brushless with Orion 3800 lipo with no mods to the chassis at all, but there needs to be upgrades to the drive train to handle the additional power.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

OK...I elongated the slots on the stock motor mount and have my Novak 17.5 installed. Using the stocl 96 tooth spur what pinion would be a good starting point? I'll be using an SMC C-Max 3200mAh 7.4V 40C+ Lipo for power.

isuzuguy

iTrader: (1)

feed back on playing with sweep! has anybody tried it and what benefits are there when using it. i,m only running stock 17.5 b/l system. i've checked out set-ups on h/b site and everybodies set-ups are mod ,and they all have some sweep on there set-ups. i run on two tracks one is low traction and one is high.thks 4 your support.

okiedoak20

SteveM, I agree with the eloging the holes,Ialso had to dremel a little
on the plastic mount to get the motor to move forward.
about the gear ratio, I would start with a 48 tooth (64p) to start with,
check the motor temp after a 5 min run and try to keep it aroun 160* mark
or less.
Hope this helps
Robert

okiedoak20

I have seen quite a bit of info on this matter,and it still dont make a lot of sence, but at the level of novice 17.5 or 13.5 brushless,I am consentrating my efforts on driving skills,and more major suspension setup concerns until i have come up to a level of driving that would need that type of attention.
Just my 2 cents worth..
Robert

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Thanks for the gearing tip. I was planning to start at a 40T pinion but seems that will be too low.

warnos16v

iTrader: (2)

Hi just trying to get the Diff settings correct on my cyclone.

How tight do you guys tighten the diffs. I read a post which stated tighten the diffs all the way in and then turn half a turn out.. I did this and it seems very tight.. the car is not that old so maybe it will loosen..

I am running stock and thought this might be a bit tight for this motor. Also is the spool too much for stock class.. do I loose to much effeciency as the motor is only a stock?? In the front... should I run a one-way.. or is a front diff better or spool..for lower powered engine classes.. the tracks I want to use the car on.. one is a very open track and the other is fairly tight.. outdoor tracks not carpet..

Sorry I have a heap of questions.. been reading heaps but just wanted some ideas from people that have already been there and done that..

Cheers.

JSeay

For the diffs you want to run them tight, in particular the front you want to be tighter than the back. Running a loose diff is going to mean a loss of power and efficiency. The "tighter" you can run them the more power you are going to have going to the wheels. I would not recommend that you run the rear diff locked, you can run the front diff locked for a spool effect.

I believe that the spool is more of a tuning aid than a factor of what motor you are running. You can expect the spool to pull your front end through a corner where a diff is going to let the off power wheel spin. You will also maintain 4wd braking using a spool. You will loose that option with a one-way.

I believe that you will find spools are popular on asphalt (tarmac) types of tracks and one-ways/diffs are more popular on carpet types of tracks. That is not a hard rule, but would be a general way of thinking. You can also run something like this which would give you effect of a spool with some give from the diff parts.

Without knowing more specifics about your application for the car it would be difficult to make a solid recommendation for you.

JSeay

Steve,

The motor will fit fine. I have that motor in my Cyclone "S". Looking at the manual for your speed controller the Time Shift on your speed controller appears to act like the timing advanced of the Speed Passion/Venom/EZRun line of speed controllers. You can play with that setting to get some additional speed/torque if needed.

If you are running against 13.5's your 17.5 may not be a match in the hands of a good driver. With a 13.5 I think the 48t is the middle of the road for gearing, you may end up at a 5 or 6 or as low as 4 depending on your track, with a 17.5 I think you may not be geared right and may need to dip into the 3's for gearing. 17.5 is hard on gearing for any car.

You may also consider getting the 18t pulleys to get the internal ratio down on your car which will help with getting some additional gearing choices for your 17.5.

Heat on a motor is a fickle thing and only gives you part of the answer you may be searching for. Is there anyone at your track that runs that speed controller? They may be able to assist you in getting you in the ballpark with that thing. Especially for the tracks you run on.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The motor fits but I did need to elongate the mounting slots a bit. My RB-30 ESC has still not arrived and in its place I installed a reliable Novak GTB. I have a 44T pinion installed and my track is a bit small so no real opportunity for top speeds. I'm planning to use a thermal infrared heat gun to check temps after runs. Not much support locally for HB other than some basic bits like C-hubs and knuckles so I'll have to look onlne for optional pulleys.

bboard

iTrader: (1)

Anybody use the 3Racing alum.? I was looking and it cost about half the price to upgrade certain parts to aluminum with 3Raing than it does with the HB aluminum.

I'm about to get this kit in a few weeks, any tips, tricks, or suggested upgrades out the box? I'm gonna be running 13.5 and 17.5 lipo, probley Novak Havok. I saw a few pages back abou tslotting the motor mount for brushless, will I need to do that or can I just run smaller spur/bigger pinion or swap for 18t pulley?

MD

iTrader: (136)

I used the 3Racing motor mount and the other support. I think they come together and the cvd's and they all worked well.