Tub Cyclone `S`
06-21-2007, 12:55 AM
#528
ahhhh im excited
i pick up my cyclone on saturday
i pick up my cyclone on saturday
06-21-2007, 08:17 AM
#530
on the BL motormount.. there are (2) 2mm spacer that go under the rear motor bulkhead. the front chassis plate mounts normal.
07-05-2007, 12:40 PM
#534
ok guys I need some help finding some spacers. I have upgraded my "S" with quite a few 3racing parts... the pertinent ones for this problem is CF upper and lower decks and steering arms. Now depending on what combination of decks you use there are different spacers needed.
With the CF lower and plastic top deck you need one 4x.8 spacer
With the CF lower and CF top you need two 4x1.5 spacers
With the tub chassis and CF top you need one 4x2.3 spacer
I'll doubt I'll use the tub chassis ever again but might need to in a pinch.. but I can't find any of these sizes! Help anyone?
With the CF lower and plastic top deck you need one 4x.8 spacer
With the CF lower and CF top you need two 4x1.5 spacers
With the tub chassis and CF top you need one 4x2.3 spacer
I'll doubt I'll use the tub chassis ever again but might need to in a pinch.. but I can't find any of these sizes! Help anyone?
07-05-2007, 09:45 PM
#535
anyone interesed in a spare "S" chassis w/upper brace kit?
Brand new and never been mounted.. was going to use it for a project but never got around to doin it..
Tower sells the chassis and upper deck for $25.00 + shipping..
I'm asking 1/2 of that.. $13.00 shipped in the US.
SOLD! Pending Payment...
Brand new and never been mounted.. was going to use it for a project but never got around to doin it..
Tower sells the chassis and upper deck for $25.00 + shipping..
I'm asking 1/2 of that.. $13.00 shipped in the US.
SOLD! Pending Payment...
Last edited by rc-zombies; 07-06-2007 at 12:58 PM. Reason: sold..
07-07-2007, 06:55 PM
#536
The only thing that is stock on my car now are the diffs, ball cups and arms, center pully (I race in silver can, so not to neccesary to change yet) everything else has been replaced. I havnt run the car since it has been rebuilt, will be tomorrow night.
07-07-2007, 07:03 PM
#537
The first time I cracked the chassis at the rear was with a totally stock Cyclone S. The second time was with a 3Racing alloy Suspention mount, but I cant remember if it had the shim on or not. The second break was from a soft crash. IMO everyone should get rid of the plastic chassis for the CF one, the plastic one is not up to scratch. I also like everyone else it seems broke the two stock C Hubs, boy are they crap, replaced with alloy ones.
The only thing that is stock on my car now are the diffs, ball cups and arms, center pully (I race in silver can, so not to neccesary to change yet) everything else has been replaced. I havnt run the car since it has been rebuilt, will be tomorrow night.
The only thing that is stock on my car now are the diffs, ball cups and arms, center pully (I race in silver can, so not to neccesary to change yet) everything else has been replaced. I havnt run the car since it has been rebuilt, will be tomorrow night.
I do not agree that the chassis has a problem. My 10 year old son has beat the car on our local track. He has yet to break a chassis where you say they are weak. Yes the stock c hubs suck. I replaced his with the carbon units. And with a P dub bumper he does not go thru c hubs or knuckles. Since may he has broke 1 cub and 1 knuckle. The car is very durable.
You do not need the alloy suspension mounts. They will do more damage than good. I raced his car today and the car works very well in stock form.
Ohh and this helps, do not hit the wall and you will not break. Try it. It helps.
07-07-2007, 10:02 PM
#538
First of all the C-Hubs which come with the Cyclone S are rubbish. They are not the standard carbon graphite part and you can tell by the sound when you rattle them together.
They are made of a brittle plastic and will more than likely break within your first few RUNS if you tap anything so yeah you need to get rid of those straight away.
With regards to the Tub Chassis i had one crack on me relatively early. I believe its something to do with the way which the pivot block is mounted into the chassis, as opposed to being a manufacturing fault.
After i put in the alloy pivot block on the rear i gently glanced a wall coming out of a corner and it snapped the chassis. It lasted a few runs with the standard plastic pivot blocks but i kept stripping the center pulleys.
Now i put this down possibly to a number of different things. First the plastic pivot block has spacers built into it and as i didnt shim the pivot block it meant the car had a savage amount of anti-squat on it and i theorise that this potentially could put a lot of stress on the chassis between the two pivot blocks.
Also the pivot block is mounted into the chassis very tightly and i feel this was also a contributing factor to the chassis snapping as the alloy would have a lot less give in it than the alloy pivot blocks.
Ultimately though i think unless you are going to upgrade to a graphite deck stick with the stock pivot blocks.
The only other problem i can remember having with the S was as mentioned earlier the center pulleys. If you run a spool or oneway in the car then the center pulley to the front belt gets stipped very easily. This means that if you want to run a spool or one-way then you need to upgrade the center pulley system.
Aside from those issues the car is winner and definitely worth it with the price tag.
They are made of a brittle plastic and will more than likely break within your first few RUNS if you tap anything so yeah you need to get rid of those straight away.
With regards to the Tub Chassis i had one crack on me relatively early. I believe its something to do with the way which the pivot block is mounted into the chassis, as opposed to being a manufacturing fault.
After i put in the alloy pivot block on the rear i gently glanced a wall coming out of a corner and it snapped the chassis. It lasted a few runs with the standard plastic pivot blocks but i kept stripping the center pulleys.
Now i put this down possibly to a number of different things. First the plastic pivot block has spacers built into it and as i didnt shim the pivot block it meant the car had a savage amount of anti-squat on it and i theorise that this potentially could put a lot of stress on the chassis between the two pivot blocks.
Also the pivot block is mounted into the chassis very tightly and i feel this was also a contributing factor to the chassis snapping as the alloy would have a lot less give in it than the alloy pivot blocks.
Ultimately though i think unless you are going to upgrade to a graphite deck stick with the stock pivot blocks.
The only other problem i can remember having with the S was as mentioned earlier the center pulleys. If you run a spool or oneway in the car then the center pulley to the front belt gets stipped very easily. This means that if you want to run a spool or one-way then you need to upgrade the center pulley system.
Aside from those issues the car is winner and definitely worth it with the price tag.
07-07-2007, 10:07 PM
#539
Padailey,
Yeah thats a strange set of shims you are looking for. I am currently running a plastic deck on one of my cars and man i have the wierdest number of shims for it to sit flush. I just kept shimming it till it look right but im pretty sure its not sitting entirely flat.
I had an hpi shim kit which came with like .2 .3 and .4 washers so i just kept adding what i needed on standard purple washers.
With the CF upper and lower decks you shouldnt need any shims for it. Are you sure you need them?
Yeah thats a strange set of shims you are looking for. I am currently running a plastic deck on one of my cars and man i have the wierdest number of shims for it to sit flush. I just kept shimming it till it look right but im pretty sure its not sitting entirely flat.
I had an hpi shim kit which came with like .2 .3 and .4 washers so i just kept adding what i needed on standard purple washers.
With the CF upper and lower decks you shouldnt need any shims for it. Are you sure you need them?
07-07-2007, 10:36 PM
#540
Yeah, I now know about the C-hub. It took three laps hitting the same spot every lap to beak the left side c-hub. and they were light hits like just a glaze. So now, I was wondering where to get the aluminum c-hus or just better ones than the plastic ones. Also does the TC3 or TC4 c-hubs work for emergency replacements? I have had the car for awhile on the shelf after I built it and never really got a chance to run till yesterday.