Tub Cyclone `S`
#109
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by dodgeguy
How is does the car handle? Running rubber tire stock?
#110
Thanks Billy. I just hope to get a litlle more help with a new car. It also helps that you and David are running the same basic car.LOL I just can't wait to get it. Looks like I might be building saturday when we get there. So any help will be appreciated.
#112
I guess it will mean a few more holes in the passed around body.LMAO
#113
Three questions
1. What is the internal gear ratio?
2. All of my gears are 48p. I know it is possible to use one but what will be my draw back? I have a 72t 48p I could drop in it. I don't have any 64p pinions. I have lots of 48p ones.
3. Someone mentioned in the regular cyclone forums that the new motor plate gave you more options with gears. Is that the same case with the "S"? Do I need the new motor plate?
1. What is the internal gear ratio?
2. All of my gears are 48p. I know it is possible to use one but what will be my draw back? I have a 72t 48p I could drop in it. I don't have any 64p pinions. I have lots of 48p ones.
3. Someone mentioned in the regular cyclone forums that the new motor plate gave you more options with gears. Is that the same case with the "S"? Do I need the new motor plate?
#114
All parts that fit the original, Surikarn, and Hara Cyclones will work on the Cyclone S. With one exception, you have to use the Cyclone S shock towers on the S unless you change out the front and rear upper bulkheads for parts from the original, Suri, or Hara kits as the graphite towers don't have provisions for inner camber links.
#115
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
Originally Posted by bigair78
Three questions
1. What is the internal gear ratio?
2. All of my gears are 48p. I know it is possible to use one but what will be my draw back? I have a 72t 48p I could drop in it. I don't have any 64p pinions. I have lots of 48p ones.
3. Someone mentioned in the regular cyclone forums that the new motor plate gave you more options with gears. Is that the same case with the "S"? Do I need the new motor plate?
1. What is the internal gear ratio?
2. All of my gears are 48p. I know it is possible to use one but what will be my draw back? I have a 72t 48p I could drop in it. I don't have any 64p pinions. I have lots of 48p ones.
3. Someone mentioned in the regular cyclone forums that the new motor plate gave you more options with gears. Is that the same case with the "S"? Do I need the new motor plate?
#116
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
All parts that fit the original, Surikarn, and Hara Cyclones will work on the Cyclone S. With one exception, you have to use the Cyclone S shock towers on the S unless you change out the front and rear upper bulkheads for parts from the original, Suri, or Hara kits as the graphite towers don't have provisions for inner camber links.
I have a XXX-S now which is ok but would like to upgrade the car... plus I want to set up my XXX-S for a dirt oval track. So I'm thinking about doing the upgrade route of the Cyclone S. I don't care that much if it will cost a little more cause I can do it over time as I get to be a better driver and can't justify shelling out $400+ all at once. Also isn't some of the parts on the Cyclone basically bling anyway and wouldn't need to be upgraded? I guess upgrading the "S" makes sense to me... just wondering what anyone else thinks?
Thanks,
Paul
#117
Yes to upgrade to graphite plate shocktowers requires upgrading the upper bulkheads to the aluminum Cyclone pieces.
#120
Picked up mine at the weekend and got it built. There will be a proper review for the magazine by the end of the month, but until then, heres my 2 pence.
1. The build is fairly easy. No stripped screws, easy to assemble. No need to clean the mouldings (much, only the plastic bits, not the plastic/nylon bits). 95% of people will be able to buid it.
2. The manual can be a lot better. A few spelling mistakes, and a sprue number wrong is fine, but theres not a single word on chassis setup, or a handling guide. Not good for the learner racer. Also, no mention on the different settings on the diff belt tensioner positions too.
Anyone know what spec/compound the kit tyres are?
1. The build is fairly easy. No stripped screws, easy to assemble. No need to clean the mouldings (much, only the plastic bits, not the plastic/nylon bits). 95% of people will be able to buid it.
2. The manual can be a lot better. A few spelling mistakes, and a sprue number wrong is fine, but theres not a single word on chassis setup, or a handling guide. Not good for the learner racer. Also, no mention on the different settings on the diff belt tensioner positions too.
Anyone know what spec/compound the kit tyres are?