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Old 03-18-2010, 09:02 PM   #1126
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This arm is plastic:
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/61237.html

This arm is aluminum:
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/61321.html

How about this one??? Why are there two on the picture, are there two in that set???
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/hb70708.html
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:39 PM   #1127
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Some more budget "Tub" improvements I would like to share with you:

http://picasaweb.google.com/11688747...41793/Cyclone#
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:22 PM   #1128
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Default Please help!

Hey all, I REALLY need help with my setup (Cyclone S w/ Mazda 6 body). My car is so loose in the rear, I am basically drifting around the whole track. In order not to drift, I have to slow down almost all the way just to make a turn. Here is what I have so far, it is basically just built according to the instructions with a few different things. I have also lowered my Dual rate down to 50% and it doesn’t kick out anymore, but the turning radius is like 20 feet. Not cool…

Racing surface is bumpy parking lot asphalt…kinda low to medium grip. It is blown off and prepped with grape soda.

Front:
Stock S compound tires
Silver spring
50 wt. oil
Upper hole third from inside
Bottom hole outside
-1.5* camber
7mm ride height
Droop 2mm over ride height
Diff tight

Rear:
Stock S compound tires
Silver spring
40 wt. oil
Upper hole second from inside
Bottom hole middle
-1.5* camber
7.5mm ride height
Droop 3.5mm over ride height
Diff med-loose

Can I make any changes to help without having to buy anything? I know I need some balance weights as I need a lot more pre-load on the battery side since my LiPo is so light. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-29-2010, 04:17 PM   #1129
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If your car is loose in the rear you should change the ride height from what you have So that it's the same or a bit lower then the front. I use a ride height of 5.8 in the front and 5.5 in the back Also I am not sure the tires u have but sores make a big diff on the car for me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mlight13 View Post
Hey all, I REALLY need help with my setup (Cyclone S w/ Mazda 6 body). My car is so loose in the rear, I am basically drifting around the whole track. In order not to drift, I have to slow down almost all the way just to make a turn. Here is what I have so far, it is basically just built according to the instructions with a few different things. I have also lowered my Dual rate down to 50% and it doesn’t kick out anymore, but the turning radius is like 20 feet. Not cool…

Racing surface is bumpy parking lot asphalt…kinda low to medium grip. It is blown off and prepped with grape soda.

Front:
Stock S compound tires
Silver spring
50 wt. oil
Upper hole third from inside
Bottom hole outside
-1.5* camber
7mm ride height
Droop 2mm over ride height
Diff tight

Rear:
Stock S compound tires
Silver spring
40 wt. oil
Upper hole second from inside
Bottom hole middle
-1.5* camber
7.5mm ride height
Droop 3.5mm over ride height
Diff med-loose

Can I make any changes to help without having to buy anything? I know I need some balance weights as I need a lot more pre-load on the battery side since my LiPo is so light. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-29-2010, 04:39 PM   #1130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlight13 View Post
Hey all, I REALLY need help with my setup (Cyclone S w/ Mazda 6 body). My car is so loose in the rear, I am basically drifting around the whole track. In order not to drift, I have to slow down almost all the way just to make a turn. Here is what I have so far, it is basically just built according to the instructions with a few different things. I have also lowered my Dual rate down to 50% and it doesn’t kick out anymore, but the turning radius is like 20 feet. Not cool…

Racing surface is bumpy parking lot asphalt…kinda low to medium grip. It is blown off and prepped with grape soda.

Front:
Stock S compound tires
Silver spring
50 wt. oil
Upper hole third from inside
Bottom hole outside
-1.5* camber
7mm ride height
Droop 2mm over ride height
Diff tight

Rear:
Stock S compound tires
Silver spring
40 wt. oil
Upper hole second from inside
Bottom hole middle
-1.5* camber
7.5mm ride height
Droop 3.5mm over ride height
Diff med-loose

Can I make any changes to help without having to buy anything? I know I need some balance weights as I need a lot more pre-load on the battery side since my LiPo is so light. Thanks in advance.
you need to drop your ride down abit. i run 5.5 all around for parkinglot racing. also swap out the tires for the sorex 36r's. since your in s.d get them at ampdraw.

i also run 45wt in the front and 40wt in the rear. 1.5* front camber and 2.0* in the rear. so far my setup seems to be working better but its still not where it should be for my likeing.

the main reason you slide alot is because of the stock gumball tires. they arre really just for playing around. if you dont have the cash for tires try putting some tire sauce on them to see what happens
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Old 03-29-2010, 05:15 PM   #1131
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Cool...thanks guys. If anyone else has ideas, i'll listen. For tires, I tries using some Paragon Ground Effects, Simple Green, and WD-40 and it all acted the same. I guess I'll just have to buy some warm weather tires like the Sorex 36's.
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Old 04-19-2010, 03:04 PM   #1132
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I snapped two modified plastic diffs so I ordered a front solid axle set (part number 61086 - $16.99) and a 39 tooth pulley (part number 61051 - $6.79). That is all that is needed for spool conversion.

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Originally Posted by ozvena View Post
Would it be possible to convert the stock diff to a spool by removing the balls and gluing the things together????
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I cleaned up all the diff parts in paint thinner.
Assembled it dry and tight without the 12 diff balls.
Applied CA to the gap around the pulley.
Applied some Microballoons filler there too and applied CA to it.

There are no vibrations from this modified diff. The belt is even more tight because the pulley is not allowed to wobble. Looks good, will test drive it next week.
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:38 PM   #1133
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Anybody know where I can find some stock diff cup outdrives?mine are showing wear and kind find any in stock.
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:03 AM   #1134
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I have these, Diff Cup Joint Parts, #61268, with other new parts for Cyclone.

Let me know and I will send you a list.
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Old 06-29-2010, 08:16 AM   #1135
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starting a rcgt that will run 17.5 brushless.Just looking for some gearing info fo my cyclone s with this motor.I'm currently running mamba 5700 with the epa turned down to 60% with 100 spur and 36 pinion.Med size track.
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:28 PM   #1136
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Start with what the motor manufacturer suggest and go from there. It helps to have a transponder to tune up your gears. Some tracks rent it.
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:18 AM   #1137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozvena View Post
Start with what the motor manufacturer suggest and go from there. It helps to have a transponder to tune up your gears. Some tracks rent it.
Thanks but can you give a ball park figure,I think we are all going to run the 17.5 cirtix system with fixed timing which I havent ordered yet and am not sure if that info will be available with this manufacturer,I'll be using 64 pitch unless you guys are having better luck with 48 pitch with cyclone s.
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Old 07-01-2010, 11:40 AM   #1138
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Gearing for Novak motors is here, you can start from there:

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/index.html

64 pitch works fine indoor...for outdoor move to bigger spaced tooths, 48 pitch as it is more resilient to small rocks.
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:19 PM   #1139
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I just got a 3Racing front solid axle (CY-27) for my Cyclone S. Problem is, my dogbones are too tight and is binding the suspension. I spread out the part that the dogbone fits in to and there is plenty of room, but the suspension still binds. I don't want to loosen anymore because there is waaay too much play where the dogbone fits in. Why is it like this? I installed a set of CVD's and the same thing is happening. This sucks.
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:27 PM   #1140
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"binding the suspension"? What does it exactly do? When do you see this happening, how do you do the testing?
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