mangoman

iTrader: (11)

One of the guys over here was running either a 4.5 or 3.5 in mod over here while writing a review for it. He basically said it wasnt too bad, although he was a decent driver.

Although i think it was meant to be kit i have a feeling he changed a few parts.
But the flexy chassis can be helpfull in getting a touch more grip.

When you think about it, its really not that different a car as long as you upgrade the parts i mentioned. Personally i dont like aluminium parts cause they bend and you cant tell. Unfortunately, if you are racing mod motors like a 5.5 you should steer clear of the cheaper brands as you will find they are made of softer aluminium.

ejbpnoy

iTrader: (11)

im running a novak gtb/6.5r setup on my cyclone s with a 108t spur and 33 pinion, i have good speed but the rear is a little loose, can anybody help me out? what settings would i need to change to help get more rear grip. im running sorex premounts 32R compound tires.

thanks

MD

iTrader: (136)

You want to change the rear droop.

mr fit

add more droop to the rear. reduce droop to the front. adjust the ride height to 4.5 in the rear. adjust the ride height to 5.5 in the front. i assume you are running outdoors with the car. and i am guessing its a big track since your running a 6.5 motor.does the track have alot of hairpin turns or are they long swooping turns.you may have to adjust camber too. maybe negative 1 1/2- negative 2 1/2. you may also consider changing the front diff to a oneway.

Rza

i have a trakpower 4900 using on a cyclone-s with the aluminum purple motor mounts/cyclone-s special edition(got it free from hpi-singapore)..the batts fits in nicely barely leaving abt +/-0.5mm gap in between.

since im new to lipo,

is this advisable to use the trakpower still?
im talking abt the heat dissipation and magnetism effects on the aluminum.
will it affect the lipo in any way?

thank you for ur help

mr fit

no it should not be a problem. trakpower lipo has a hard case,very strong. the hard case protects the cells from damage and heat.plus your chassis is plastic not carbon fiber.carbon fiber can cause magnetism effects on nimh batteries that do not have shrink wrap and if the chassis edges are sharp it could cut into a cell and short out your pack.i have used lipos without hard case and nimh's without heat shrink and never had a problem.just tighten down the battery strap so battery doesn't move around or fly out. if you ever decide to upgrade your chassis to c.f. you would need to smooth out the edges with sandpaper and protect edges with c.a. glue.

Rza

ok..that was very detailed answer.. thank you..

fullout

I just picked up a brand new cyclone s. I must say i have built a yokomo bd, tc5, 12r5 and an xray 808 and the build quality with this thing even though its all plastic was easily on par with the above mentioned. I was very impressed.

Anyway i plan to use this car for drifting with a 13.5 brushless. I was wondering what spur pinion combo you guys are running. It seems i will be needing a ridiculously large pinion on this thing to get it to even mesh with the stock spur. Any help would help. thanks

you can pm if you like

mr fit

you can change the stock motor mount to the purple aluminum ones. i shaved mine down with a dremel. now i can fit a 52 pinion.in your case you can start with a 34 pinion and the stock 96 spur.if you want more power go up in pinion size(check motor temps so they dont pass 190.over 200 and your motor is fried) you may also want to consider a 25c-35c lipo. you will get that extra punch to keep those tires spinning. happy drifting

M-Tune

My turnbuckles seem to be binding on the FR Pivot block. I cant seem to find a solution to the problem. If I buy the HB Factory purple aluminum FR Pivot Block, do you think it will have the same problem? Just by looking at some photos it looked like it might be a bit lower profile than the stock plastic one.

Thanks

MD

iTrader: (136)

Is the pivot ball too tall?

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

what I did mate was file the block down until the steering was free, also make sure you have the shocks and wheels on when your checking it as it will lift the turnbuckles naturally. I wouldnt go for the alloy pivot blocks as they can snap the chassis in a crash, just ask Mangoman lol

Cheers
Adrian

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

Yeah personally i suspect that was the reason why my chassis has snapped.

It was such a light tap too.

Using the plastic pivot blocks on the front is probably better too as there will be more movement and you are less likely to bend the hinge pins (which will then greatly effect the handling of the car).

With regards to binding it shouldnt be binding if the wheels are on the ground, you are probably checking the suspension while holding the car in the air.

M-Tune

it was the turnbuckles hitting it. I shaved it down and its good.

What size are the shock pistons that come in kit?

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

2 hole 1mm dude

Also just a couple of tips that may have been mentioned that I recently found out. If your using the alloy servo saver from the original cyclone or 3 racing make sure you loctite the ball screws in and swap the tie rod that holds the ball cups that connect the servo to the steering for the original cyclone which has a turnbuckle instead it helps with adjustments and also wont allow the tierod to come undone which happened to me in a race recently.

Cheers
Adrian