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Old 02-26-2008, 11:03 AM   #661
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Default Diff issue

I have been running the S for about 6 weeks now. really enjoy the car. my problem is the diff. The first time I built it, the diff lasted 30 packs before feeling gritty. everytime I rebulild the diff, it seems to last shorter and shorter. Now I have to rebuild every 3-5 packs.

Is it possible the balls have worned out? The diff rings etc all are fine. It just gets gritty sooner and sooner.

Any ideas appreciated.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:06 AM   #662
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I have been running the S for about 6 weeks now. really enjoy the car. my problem is the diff. The first time I built it, the diff lasted 30 packs before feeling gritty. everytime I rebulild the diff, it seems to last shorter and shorter. Now I have to rebuild every 3-5 packs.

Is it possible the balls have worned out? The diff rings etc all are fine. It just gets gritty sooner and sooner.

Any ideas appreciated.
Replace the diff balls with ceramic and get the JAAD racing diff covers and you wont need to rebuild the diff for a very long time.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:06 AM   #663
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Originally Posted by Julienfoo View Post
I have been running the S for about 6 weeks now. really enjoy the car. my problem is the diff. The first time I built it, the diff lasted 30 packs before feeling gritty. everytime I rebulild the diff, it seems to last shorter and shorter. Now I have to rebuild every 3-5 packs.

Is it possible the balls have worned out? The diff rings etc all are fine. It just gets gritty sooner and sooner.

Any ideas appreciated.
Replace the diff balls with ceramic and get the JAAD racing diff covers and you wont need to rebuild the diff for a very long time.
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Old 02-26-2008, 01:18 PM   #664
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I know Andy Moore recommends running the rear diff tight to very tight on the regular Cyclone.
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Old 02-26-2008, 05:52 PM   #665
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Are we saying that worn diff balls can cause grittyness? I was suspecting the trust bearings. I will pick up another pack of balls and have a got. Ceramics are out of my budget right now.

Cheers
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:57 AM   #666
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Replace the diff balls with ceramic and get the JAAD racing diff covers and you wont need to rebuild the diff for a very long time.
Please, tell me where to buy these JAAD diff plate in the US or Hong Kong/Japan.
Thanks
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:08 AM   #667
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Please, tell me where to buy these JAAD diff plate in the US or Hong Kong/Japan.
Thanks
here you go:

http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...e=jaad+cyclone
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:39 PM   #668
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or8ital, Thanks you
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:59 PM   #669
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Or you could make your own diff covers from self-adhesive vinyl or contact paper, cut using a circle cutter. I was lucky enough to find a shiny purple one to match all the other purple bling . Don't forget to smear a bit of diff lube on the back of the cover where it meets the diff halves.
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Old 02-29-2008, 12:06 AM   #670
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Default 3Racing Spur + one way

Hi all, I have just installed the 3Racing center oneway, spur holder etc, CY-17/18/30 (http://www.3racing.com.hk/manuals/cy17.jpg) and used the 18 tooth pulley to lower my internal ratio, the problem I have is the belt is sooooo tight!, I have tried reversing the Diff bearing holders but it didnt help much if at all, any ideas in how to loosen it so it can move freely? Thanks for any help in advance!
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Old 02-29-2008, 05:58 AM   #671
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When you switch to the 18T pulley, you'll need to use the longer drive belts, ie the 170T (#66493) front, and 63T (#66494) rear belt. If you don't want to change belts, use the 17T pulley instead. Can I ask what FDR you're aiming for?
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Old 03-01-2008, 01:44 AM   #672
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When you switch to the 18T pulley, you'll need to use the longer drive belts, ie the 170T (#66493) front, and 63T (#66494) rear belt. If you don't want to change belts, use the 17T pulley instead. Can I ask what FDR you're aiming for?
I wanted to lower the internal ratio due to the fact I am too slow off the line and out of sharp corners, my acceleration cant match a few of the other cars and I am loosing a few vital placings at the start. So was aiming for 2.16 using the 18T pulleys, thanks for the advice with the belts, thier is always heaps too learn!.
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Old 03-01-2008, 04:41 AM   #673
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If your trying to increase your acceleration, you need to increase your FDR (Final Drive Ratio = Spur/Pinion x internal ratio). So by decreasing your internal ratio, you're decreasing acceleration even further. Instead of playing around with the internal ratio, start with changing your gear ratio. Smaller pinion, or larger spur, or a combination of both will give you faster acceleration, but your top speed will decrease. Probably easiest to go get a pinion that is 1 or 2T smaller, if your motor mount allows it.
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Old 03-01-2008, 09:45 AM   #674
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Keep in mind that if you are running a budget esc compared to those racers who are beating you....

Then it is likely that the esc could be playing a large part in their pickup off the line and out of corners. Of course a good motor helps too (if it is brushed)
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:04 AM   #675
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Keep in mind that if you are running a budget esc compared to those racers who are beating you....

Then it is likely that the esc could be playing a large part in their pickup off the line and out of corners. Of course a good motor helps too (if it is brushed)
I am pretty much a newbie so all comments are greatly appriciated, can someone explain how a better ESC can help I am using a budget Futaba 230 ESC at the moment? I run in a class which uses the standard silver can motor, once I am getting consistant top 3 in the class I am going to jump up to brushless which we should be running next season. Cheers
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