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Old 07-22-2007, 05:20 PM   #571
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OK I went out and got proper shims for the diffs. No change. This is one reason why I like my TC4 none of the belt tension and rubbing to worry about.
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Old 07-22-2007, 08:48 PM   #572
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That's why i said you need to work out what is rubbing as its not normal for the belt to rub.

You may want to check if its rubbing on the bottom of the servo horn but the belt really shouldnt be close to the servo saver. If you get around to taking a picture of the car remove the top deck and take a picture so i can see whats going on.
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Old 07-23-2007, 11:11 PM   #573
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Would replacing the bushings (part number b70)in the Cyclone S diff with bearings (part number b20) help reduce the side to side play in the diff pulley? Any input on that. I was looking at the manual for the WC edition Cyclone and noticed the diff was ball raced, the S version just uses bushings. I want to make sure my belts are tracking as straight as possible.
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Old 07-24-2007, 02:51 AM   #574
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No that is how the diff pulley is.

As i tried to explain the pulley is supported by the diff balls. Pull it apart and think about how it works mechanically.

While looking at it take into account that if the diff cups rub on the diff pulley it will stop the action of the diff pulley where the halves turn in opposite directions.
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Old 07-24-2007, 05:14 AM   #575
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Hi,
I have the same problems with my rear diff and was also thinking bearings would be better than the bushes but have not tried them as yet.

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Old 07-24-2007, 07:57 AM   #576
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If you are having problems with your diff i suspect its a case of you are not rebuilding it often enough.....

The bearings should make it a little smoother but i dont know if its that much difference or not.
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:28 AM   #577
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I'm not trying to clamp the diff pulley between the out drive cups, I just want to make sure that the pulley runs as true as possible. I took the diff apart the other night and the space between the bushing and the pulley is large enough that I think it should be a tighter fit. If it helps my problems thats cool if it makes the diff smoother, thats cool too. I'm at the point that the rubbing is just a bother, and not really hurting the cars performance.
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Old 07-24-2007, 04:16 PM   #578
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Bugger, I broke my first part in the rebuilt Cyclone, I hit the barrier and broke a suspention mount. Well at least its better than a chassis
And I still won the race heheh
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Old 07-29-2007, 12:13 PM   #579
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OK I built the front diff using the bearings I bought in place of the bushings. It didn't stop the rubbing issue I have been having 100%, but it did reduce it and make the diff smoother over all. I'll say it was worth it. I have to do the back diff, but that will have to wait. The bearings keep the diff pulley running straighter then the bushings ever did.
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Old 07-30-2007, 05:17 AM   #580
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Yeah thats would be right when i think about it. Because the pulley is held on the diff by one of the bearings/bushings.

Its still strange that the belt is rubbing

Can you shim the centre pulley so that it is closer to the left side
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:16 PM   #581
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One step ahead of you Mangoman. I shimed the diff after while I was reinstalling it after the rebuild. The combo of the bearings and the shim eliminated about 95% of the rub. I'm not even concerned about it anymore as I don't think it is harming the cars performance. It's no where near as bad as it was before even when it does rub it's a light sound not as heavy as it was before.
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:45 PM   #582
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MonkeyFist - I've been following along about your belt rub problem but couldn't figure out at all what was going on... glad you've got it at an acceptable level. I can tell mine has rubbed the servo saver before (purple rubbed off) but when I looked it was all about my center pulleys. But I'm using the 3racing stuff and had to work on the alignment of the pulleys. 3racing stuff is treating me well for what it costs but some of the stuff you have to use a little creativity to make it work correctly. I've fought through a few issues with my "S" but now that I have them solved it's solid and fast. Its pretty much a 3racing Cyclone. The 3racing parts I have are holding up quite nicely for anyone wondering about long term use of parts from them.
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Old 08-03-2007, 10:27 PM   #583
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I was wondering if anybody has a good rollout for rubber tires with a 19t and stock motor for a starting point?
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Old 08-04-2007, 06:22 PM   #584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I was wondering if anybody has a good rollout for rubber tires with a 19t and stock motor for a starting point?
I use a stock motor on a circut that was designed as a nitro track, so it has a long back straight, but the electric cars have a few nice set of chicanes etc to run through, we do approx 29sec lap times, 5 min races and are limited to 1500Mah NICADS!. I use a 51mm roll out which is a 81 Spur and a 53 pinion. Dont if this helps at all, good luck
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Old 08-04-2007, 06:25 PM   #585
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Heys guys thought I would share I came across this link for the Cyclone S big brother, but thought some of the build tips where useful

http://translate.google.com/translat...3DqGq%26sa%3DG

enjoy
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