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Old 12-25-2006, 12:23 PM   #376
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the 3racing c-hubs, knuckles and rear uprights did really good on saturdays race. i had an old guy step completely down on my car and all he did was break the locator on the body post and bent one of my body clips. the chassis is fine. i even smacked a few walls a couple of times where the guys with the AE tc4 were snapping rear uprights every time.
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:49 PM   #377
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sorry to double post. i did notice one thing from the race.... the rear diff finally loosend up. there was another diff nut piece in the pile of leftovers, it had a hex shape inside like a nut was supposed to fit, i put a 2-56 locknut (it was a wheel nut from my mini-z) in it and tightend it down. so far so good.
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:53 PM   #378
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I got a really dumb question. With a ball diff, the tighter the screw that runs through the diff is, the 'stiffer' of harder the diff will be, and visa-versa? Aldo, i have been reading about ppl having the diff nut come loose. Is this the nut tht goes on the other end of the screw that has like 2 small locating tabs on it?
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Old 01-05-2007, 08:15 PM   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turtle
I got a really dumb question. With a ball diff, the tighter the screw that runs through the diff is, the 'stiffer' of harder the diff will be, and visa-versa? Aldo, i have been reading about ppl having the diff nut come loose. Is this the nut tht goes on the other end of the screw that has like 2 small locating tabs on it?
you are right on the screw. the tighter the setting the more it will act like a spool. the looser the setting it will act more like an open differential(like in a real car). yet the looser setting will burn up the outdrives. yes the nut is the one with the 2 small locating tabs, there is another piece on the same parts tree that has a hex shape instead. buy a 2-56 lock nut and put in there and use it. i have used it for several days w/ a 15t and a set of 4200's and it has not come loose yet.
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Old 01-06-2007, 12:00 AM   #380
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kwellst the part you found is the old style of diff nut. Basically the old style was two piece it had the part you found plus a little nylon lock nut which would go on the inside of the hex shaped hole on the piece you found.

You should have found a couple of spare small nylon lock nuts when you built the car.

You should use the heavy-duty diff nut which is item 73522 on this page
http://www.hpieurope.com/parts.php?lang=en&partNo=187

With the Pro 4 cyclone diffs were supposedly renowned for coming loose, ive never had problems so i assume that this is a problem which was experienced by mod drivers. To play it safe i put a really small drop of loctite on the heavy duty diff nut before i screw it down, but be carefull you obviously dont want loctite to get into the diff.

With regards to the diff itself you dont want it too loose or too tight. Typically what racers do is they put tires on the car. Then with one hand put your thumb on the spur gear and hold one of the tire. Then use your other hand to rotate the other wheel on the diff (of course you will find this very hard to do to check the front diff unless your fingers that are like 30 cms long :P)

Now here is the hard part. I dont know how to describe how tight your diff is (for me to say the tire should move slightly when gently turned with a few fingers doesnt really mean much as that is relative). Find someone at your local track who can check the diff for you and then learn how tight it should be.

Its important to work out how you like your diff's as it will effect the handling of the car also if the diff is too loose you wont get power too each of your wheels evenly (or i think thats what happens).
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Old 01-06-2007, 06:16 AM   #381
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your right, when the diff is too loose your inside tire will get most of the power causing you to slow down thru the corners. when its too loose power will goto the least amount of resistance. that inside tire that doesnt have as much weight.
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Old 01-06-2007, 10:34 PM   #382
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i now get to spend 33.55 on my car in order for me to drive it. the ball diffs kept loosening, and i had to tighten them up after every race, well i didnt after the 3rd qualifying figuring it'll be alright. i was wrong. they loosend up and i melted the rear outdrives, scored the d-rings, flat spotted the diff balls, and warped the diff pulley. not just the rear either, it was the front too!!!! YAAAAYYY!!!! also the steering has now gone funky, the car will turn to the right, but when i attempt to straighten it out by turning to the left, it will stay going left?? did i maybe, bend a steering link, or got something out of wack??
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Old 01-06-2007, 10:38 PM   #383
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Sound like what happened when i snapped the centre post on the rear out drives. That is the centre post which holds the bearings (or bushings if you use the stock equipment) inside the diff.
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Old 01-06-2007, 10:53 PM   #384
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Btw with your steering have you checked to see if you servo saver is broken?
Maybe the end of the servo saver (which screws the spring on tight) has come loose.

Also double check the servo is ok **SHRUG**
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Old 01-07-2007, 09:09 AM   #385
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well that center post was broken on both the front and rear diffs. thanks for the insite on the the steering issues.
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Old 01-07-2007, 04:24 PM   #386
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When that centre post snaps that is when the diff will start coming loose on every run.

If possible i would strongly suggest getting alloy diff outdrives if you can afford them.
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Old 01-07-2007, 06:37 PM   #387
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has anyone figured out why the 3racing front or rear bulkheads wont work??? will the 3racing middle block and middle block R work on a tub chassis, and if i wanted to install the CF upper chassis will i need anything to make it fit a tub chassis?
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Old 01-07-2007, 07:22 PM   #388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwellst
has anyone figured out why the 3racing front or rear bulkheads wont work??? will the 3racing middle block and middle block R work on a tub chassis, and if i wanted to install the CF upper chassis will i need anything to make it fit a tub chassis?
I have been using the front and rear bulkheads for a few months without any problems but I have had them on the Hot Bodies graphite chassis. I never had the chance to try them on the tub chassis because mine broke before I got the bulkheads.
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:12 PM   #389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwellst
if i wanted to install the CF upper chassis will i need anything to make it fit a tub chassis?
I bought both the upper and lower deck for my "S". There are spacers/standoffs that come with the chassis parts so you can mix and match with the "S" chassis decks. I don't remember what comes in each package but the 3 racing site shows that the upper deck comes with some screws, spacers and standoffs. The ones shown will make the upper deck work with the "S" lower.
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Old 01-08-2007, 03:48 AM   #390
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Update on my epic conversion....

Got most of the 3R parts now. Only stock HB bits are the steering post and belts.

Got:

3Racing
Front upper and lower bulks
Rear upper and lower bulks
Motor mount left and right
Middle heatsink block
Carbon S towers front and rear (and rear body posts)
Carbon upper deck
Carbon lower deck
FR pivot block
RF pivot block
Centre shaft and pullys
Servo mounts
Driveshafts (1pr)

HPI Pro 4
TIR Worlds driveshafts (1pr)
Graphite wishbones, hubs, hub carriers
FF and RR pivot blocks
Shocks
Front foam bumper (dark grey looks better!)
Purpley~blue turnbuckles

Hot Bodies
Spool
Alloy rear diff outdrives

Jet
Carbon bumper support plate (on offer over here)

Not much else I want to upgrade really now, so next purchase is a steel screw set for when some of them round off.

And thats for the $ being so weak compared to the , its STILL cheaper to buy all that and the S kit than to buy a Hara version! Plus, I have loads of spares now
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