TC3 Assembly Tips, Factory Team Kit
12-28-2002, 07:19 PM
#1
TC3 Assembly Tips, Factory Team Kit
I recently built a new Factory Team TC3. I thought I would share some of these assembly tips as I have seen the same problems on some of the other racers kits that they have been running for a while.
Hand Fit the A-arm Hinge Pins.
The pins were not very straight on my kit. In addition some of the ends appeared to be cut with a shear and were a little rough. Sand these by rotating them by hand in some fine sandpaper until they will spin easily in A-arms.
Hand Fit the A-arms.
All four of the A-arms on my kit would not drop by gravity indicating excessive friction. I had to sand the A-arm mounts and the A-arms a bit to make them move easily. The car will not develop good grip if the suspension arms are binding.
Upper shock Pivots.
You should be able to rotate the shock a bit along its own axis at each of the pivots. This is a check to make sure the shock is not binding. The Plastic flanged nut on the upper shock mount did not clear the bell of the shock cap on my kit. If you snug the nut the shock will be binding on the flange. I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and took a light cut on the shock cap so that the nut’s flange would have some clearance. The bushing that the upper shock mounts pivot on should rotate easily in the shock. One of mine was too snug, so I sanded it a bit until the fit was good.
Front Outer Camber link Pivot
When I popped on the upper camber links they added some spring tension to the suspension. This occured on both sides of the car. The suspension needs to move freely. I replaced both outer camber link ball cups on the front with the Losi XXXS part which cured the problem. The Losi part has a little clearance cut which may have helped.
Gear Lash.
Three spacers on the input shafts of the gears seemed to be too much on my kit. There was no play and the gears were hard to turn. I reduced this to two spacers and the gears seemed to work fine.
Lube Port.
There is an extra screw hole on the upper part of the case that is not used that goes all the way into the gear train. You can use this hole to add a little lube once in a while. You should cover this hole with a small button head screw to prevent dirt entry.
The rest of the kit went together fine. If you built your kit without paying attention to some of these problems it is never to late to check them. Feel Free to add your own tips.
Hand Fit the A-arm Hinge Pins.
The pins were not very straight on my kit. In addition some of the ends appeared to be cut with a shear and were a little rough. Sand these by rotating them by hand in some fine sandpaper until they will spin easily in A-arms.
Hand Fit the A-arms.
All four of the A-arms on my kit would not drop by gravity indicating excessive friction. I had to sand the A-arm mounts and the A-arms a bit to make them move easily. The car will not develop good grip if the suspension arms are binding.
Upper shock Pivots.
You should be able to rotate the shock a bit along its own axis at each of the pivots. This is a check to make sure the shock is not binding. The Plastic flanged nut on the upper shock mount did not clear the bell of the shock cap on my kit. If you snug the nut the shock will be binding on the flange. I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and took a light cut on the shock cap so that the nut’s flange would have some clearance. The bushing that the upper shock mounts pivot on should rotate easily in the shock. One of mine was too snug, so I sanded it a bit until the fit was good.
Front Outer Camber link Pivot
When I popped on the upper camber links they added some spring tension to the suspension. This occured on both sides of the car. The suspension needs to move freely. I replaced both outer camber link ball cups on the front with the Losi XXXS part which cured the problem. The Losi part has a little clearance cut which may have helped.
Gear Lash.
Three spacers on the input shafts of the gears seemed to be too much on my kit. There was no play and the gears were hard to turn. I reduced this to two spacers and the gears seemed to work fine.
Lube Port.
There is an extra screw hole on the upper part of the case that is not used that goes all the way into the gear train. You can use this hole to add a little lube once in a while. You should cover this hole with a small button head screw to prevent dirt entry.
The rest of the kit went together fine. If you built your kit without paying attention to some of these problems it is never to late to check them. Feel Free to add your own tips.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-28-2002 at 07:22 PM.
12-29-2002, 08:09 AM
#2
Aluminum Screws
The Team Kit comes with many Aluminum Screws. Maybe a few too many. Some of the screws that I replaced with steel are the two screws at the bottom rear of the chassis. If this screw fails it may take the corner of the chassis with it (previous experience). I also used Steel screws to hold the gear cases down to the chassis. This might prevent problems with tweak later on after the car gets some wear. Run a steel screw (or tap) into all the holes that you plan to put an Aluminum screw. This was sufficient for easy insertion of all the Aluminum screws on my kit. I did not need to lube the screws.
12-29-2002, 08:59 AM
#3
Tech Regular
John,
Make sure you scrape the trans cases where the bearings ride. There sould be no clamping of the bearings. Any clamping of the bearings will add friction to the drivetrain.
Our cars will spin for quite a while.
Ted
Make sure you scrape the trans cases where the bearings ride. There sould be no clamping of the bearings. Any clamping of the bearings will add friction to the drivetrain.
Our cars will spin for quite a while.
Ted
12-29-2002, 12:18 PM
#4
Weight
Ted- Thanks for the tip.
I assembled the car with a GM V12 speed control, Airtronics M8 receiver and a stock motor. The weight is about 50.7 ounces without transponder.
I weighed the car side to side with transponder. The right side is about 1.3 ounces light with a transponder in the usual position to the right of the servo, so some lead can be added near the right side of the chassis. I'll get corner weights later and pinpoint the fore-aft position for the transponder and the extra weight.
I mounted the V12 on the edge on the inside edge of the tray with lead wire terminal up. I previously drilled the bottom of a couple of the solder tubes so that the wire could run from the bottom to the negative battery terminal. Receiver is flat outboard of the Speed control. This gave me short lead wires with a secure clearance over the drive shaft. I filled the bottom of the space between speed control and servo with some stiff foam for added security.
I assembled the car with a GM V12 speed control, Airtronics M8 receiver and a stock motor. The weight is about 50.7 ounces without transponder.
I weighed the car side to side with transponder. The right side is about 1.3 ounces light with a transponder in the usual position to the right of the servo, so some lead can be added near the right side of the chassis. I'll get corner weights later and pinpoint the fore-aft position for the transponder and the extra weight.
I mounted the V12 on the edge on the inside edge of the tray with lead wire terminal up. I previously drilled the bottom of a couple of the solder tubes so that the wire could run from the bottom to the negative battery terminal. Receiver is flat outboard of the Speed control. This gave me short lead wires with a secure clearance over the drive shaft. I filled the bottom of the space between speed control and servo with some stiff foam for added security.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-29-2002 at 12:25 PM.
12-29-2002, 01:48 PM
#5
Tech Regular
John,
Most of us have moved the battery in toward the center by cutting down the center part of the chassis. Move them as far as you can without hitting the driveshaft, it is about 3/8's I think.
It does not appear to weaken the chassis enough to notice. Josh Cyrul put a brace on his car but most people have not.
I have not measured the side to side weight but it has to be better.
Ted
Most of us have moved the battery in toward the center by cutting down the center part of the chassis. Move them as far as you can without hitting the driveshaft, it is about 3/8's I think.
It does not appear to weaken the chassis enough to notice. Josh Cyrul put a brace on his car but most people have not.
I have not measured the side to side weight but it has to be better.
Ted
12-29-2002, 02:11 PM
#6
Moving the batteries closer to center; I saw when they reviewed it in November's RCCA magazine that is what Barry Baker did on his TC3. I have to trim my KO Servo tabs in order to fit it down on my chassis. After talking to a couple of people, I guess that is common practice on certain servos.
I didn't buy my TC3 (Factory Team), but I have made some FT upgrades, and I did buy the aluminum screw set. I strongly advise against the use of aluminum screws on the bottom of the chassis at the rear of the car and the front (areas that are most susceptible to being scraped). I am actually 'now' replacing all of the aluminum chassis screws with steel. I ruined a graphite chassis, mainly because I wasn't being careful, and stripped the head.
And an easy out won't work with an aluminum screw. I should have (as you mentioned) pre-screwed with a metal stock screw to get the threads set. I use the Mylar adhesive film over those front and rear screws, but it can still be a problem. The Mylar gets pushed into the screw head, and when you attempt to get it out, you can ruin the screw head. So; I think it best to keep the 'nice' Blue aluminum screws on top. No problems there.
I didn't buy my TC3 (Factory Team), but I have made some FT upgrades, and I did buy the aluminum screw set. I strongly advise against the use of aluminum screws on the bottom of the chassis at the rear of the car and the front (areas that are most susceptible to being scraped). I am actually 'now' replacing all of the aluminum chassis screws with steel. I ruined a graphite chassis, mainly because I wasn't being careful, and stripped the head.
And an easy out won't work with an aluminum screw. I should have (as you mentioned) pre-screwed with a metal stock screw to get the threads set. I use the Mylar adhesive film over those front and rear screws, but it can still be a problem. The Mylar gets pushed into the screw head, and when you attempt to get it out, you can ruin the screw head. So; I think it best to keep the 'nice' Blue aluminum screws on top. No problems there.
Last edited by AGR#7; 12-29-2002 at 02:29 PM.
12-29-2002, 02:52 PM
#7
Wiring
Thanks for the added input guys. By the way, Ted, Good finish at the Cleveland Champs!. I think I'll run the car a bit before I cut the chassis.
Here is my first attempt at a picture. New digital camera. Still getting the settings and image size right. It looks OK at about 1/4 screen size.
(note that there is a better photo in my post of 1/2/2003)
Here is my first attempt at a picture. New digital camera. Still getting the settings and image size right. It looks OK at about 1/4 screen size.
(note that there is a better photo in my post of 1/2/2003)
Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-03-2003 at 08:29 PM.
12-29-2002, 06:55 PM
#10
Tech Initiate
John, I found one way of getting the weight right without adding any weight. I moved some cells around, I race outdoors on a big track shared with gas cars. I put 2 cells to the back then the speed control then 2 more cells. The other 2 go where the speed control was. The rec. goes on top of the servo. I used a small tekin. This made my car better balanced, actually a small amount right side heavy which is what I wanted because of our track design. This change also helped in tire wear as we run on somewhat abrasive asphalt. We run foam in stock class.
Craig
Craig
12-29-2002, 07:11 PM
#11
John, it will be interesting to read what you find in your shaft vs belt testing. Good luck.
I have a Losi and will probably keep it because 90% of my racing is offroad and I have Losi cars there and it's nice having the same diff parts in shock types in all the kits. However from what I've expeienced on tight carpet tracks the shaft may be the way to go. I'm still wrenching though and not gave up yet.
I have a Losi and will probably keep it because 90% of my racing is offroad and I have Losi cars there and it's nice having the same diff parts in shock types in all the kits. However from what I've expeienced on tight carpet tracks the shaft may be the way to go. I'm still wrenching though and not gave up yet.
12-30-2002, 07:53 AM
#13
Tech Fanatic
replacement screws
Do you know who makes steel or titanium screws for the bottom and what the sizes/quanity are? Thanks.
12-30-2002, 08:07 AM
#14
There are 18 total of 4-40 thread x 3/8 inch Flat head screws on the bottom of the chassis. The two steering screws are longer and came with steel screws on my kit. Personally I would use the Associated steel screws in places that I did not want aluminum. They come in packages of about 5 screws. They are about twice as strong as the 6 AL V4 titanium. Maybe someone else can post a site for good Titanium Screws. I have not purchased any.
12-30-2002, 09:27 AM
#15
Custom Deans Half Plugs
I thought I would describe how to make the connectors on my car in case it is of interest. Use a .010" thick Xacto saw which fits in the big handle to cut a male Deans plug in half. You can use both halves. Use the saw to cut the female connectors right along the negative terminal. Discard the negative half. This preserves the proper tension on the plug. Use the dremmel sanding wheel to round off the plugs a bit. Solder on as normal. Stretch some 1/4 inch high quality shrink wrap (not radioshack) by inserting the jaws of a needle nose pliers into it and pulling the handles apart. Quickly slip it over the plug and solder joint and heat shrink it in place. My test showed this connector to be as good resistance wise as the wire it replaces in the circuit. The advantage over a double plug is that in some cases you can reduce the amount of wire in the circuit. It also makes for a fairly neat connection.
Here is a picture of the Deans Half Plug. I apologize for the low quality of the first picture above. I had to get farther away to obtain the proper autofocus.
Here is a picture of the Deans Half Plug. I apologize for the low quality of the first picture above. I had to get farther away to obtain the proper autofocus.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-30-2002 at 09:29 AM.
12-30-2002, 10:04 AM
#16
Lateral Runout on Front One-way Diff Gear
The first time I assembled and installed the front one-way diff, the gear was alternately tight then loose as I rotated the input shaft. This idicates the gear is not flat on the diff's mounting flange. I removed the gear and scrapped off some burrs that developed on the screw holes of the diff flange. When I reassembled it the gear was flat and turned with little friction in the diff.
12-30-2002, 12:01 PM
#17
Tech Adept
Hey John,
The friction on the diff and the suspension will settle when the car is broken in. With some usage, the gears will mate better and the transmission gears will feel much better.
See you at the track....Brien
The friction on the diff and the suspension will settle when the car is broken in. With some usage, the gears will mate better and the transmission gears will feel much better.
See you at the track....Brien
12-30-2002, 12:13 PM
#18
Corner Weights
You will get the best performance from a touring car when the tires on both sides of the car carry the same weight. I mounted the transponder practice weight to the right of the servo. I still needed to add about 1.8 ounces of ballast. I put this much lead in the cavity to the right of the motor and the right rear tire was still light. So here is my plan. I'm going to mount a second transponder practice weight to a BRP transponder mount. This weight will be posistioned to clear the right rear tire and will be mounted ouboard of the chassis like the front weight. This mount can be bent with a heat gun or lighter. I plan to drill and countersink a screw from the bottom of the chassis to hold this arm which will be bent around the inside of the cavity on top. The point of this is to mount some weight farther to the right on the chassis. The rest of the lead will go in the cavity to the right of the motor. Corner weights came out pretty close to even. Left front= right front and left rear = right rear. If you run the battery forward you can move the lead and practice weight further forward. I'll put up a picture later. I have to buy the mount.
Brien- did you need to reshim the input shafts to take out some play after you seated the parts on the track. I was curious about that.
Brien- did you need to reshim the input shafts to take out some play after you seated the parts on the track. I was curious about that.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-30-2002 at 12:18 PM.
12-30-2002, 03:44 PM
#19
Corner Weights Continued
Here is a photo of the rear transponder mount and a 1 ounce strip of folded lead. I made the mount from a tackle box divider. Put it in the vise and used a heat gun to make a simple 90 degree bend. Servo taped to the inside of the chassis. The lead is wedged in with servo tape for added security. Rear Left side and right side wheels are loaded within .1-.2 ounces with the extra weight in this location. The fronts as well. I aggree that the transponders look funny here, but that's where the factory recommends the front one.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-30-2002 at 03:46 PM.
12-30-2002, 04:21 PM
#20
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
TC3 and Stranahan
This is great.Got your book and it's very helpful and informative.The only "problem" I've had with it is your use of the XXX in your examples and tests.Nothing wrong with that except I run the TC3.lol.I still recommend the book to all my fellow racers,it's that good.This thread will keep me coming here every day as I have found your threads in the past some of the best I've read.Keep up the good work,it's great.Mario
12-30-2002, 06:39 PM
#21
Originally posted by John Stranahan
There are 18 total of 4-40 thread x 3/8 inch Flat head screws on the bottom of the chassis. The two steering screws are longer and came with steel screws on my kit. Personally I would use the Associated steel screws in places that I did not want aluminum. They come in packages of about 5 screws. They are about twice as strong as the 6 AL V4 titanium. Maybe someone else can post a site for good Titanium Screws. I have not purchased any.
There are 18 total of 4-40 thread x 3/8 inch Flat head screws on the bottom of the chassis. The two steering screws are longer and came with steel screws on my kit. Personally I would use the Associated steel screws in places that I did not want aluminum. They come in packages of about 5 screws. They are about twice as strong as the 6 AL V4 titanium. Maybe someone else can post a site for good Titanium Screws. I have not purchased any.
http://www.racinghardcore.com/index2.htm
12-30-2002, 06:57 PM
#22
Mario-Thanks. I'll update the book with more TC3 stuff when I run the TC3 a few months. I don't expect there will be any dramatic differences in the way the chassis is setup.
Agr+7- thanks for the web address. Did you find the problem with the link rubbing the driveshaft?
Agr+7- thanks for the web address. Did you find the problem with the link rubbing the driveshaft?
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-30-2002 at 07:01 PM.
12-31-2002, 09:00 AM
#23
Fore Aft Weight Balance
With the car like in the previous photo, battery back, the rear weighs 5 ounces more than the front. This might be a bit too much. I moved the battery to the forward position to improve this balance. I can move the extra ballast forward a little. 2-4 oz heavier on the back seems to be good numbers to shoot for.
Ted- I you look back in here, are you guys running your battery forward or back.
Ted- I you look back in here, are you guys running your battery forward or back.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-31-2002 at 10:48 AM.
12-31-2002, 04:55 PM
#24
First Practice Session and Setup
I got to run the TC3 today at Reflex RC in Houston which has a high grip indoor asphalt track with a fresh new layout today. All I can say is the car is wickedly fast out of the corners. I started with the setup right off the Losi XXXS which I have been racing at the same track. The only change is I ran the TC3 .5 mm higher because the bottom of the chassis is more flat than the Losi. Here is the result of my tuning session.
Current Setup as of 4/05/03 I update this setup periodically.
Front- Blue Spring middle hole on stock shock tower and outer hole on bottom. #2 shock piston, 30 weight oil, with .010 inch bevel cut on top of each piston hole by hand with a drill bit to ease bump travel of the shock. Camber link long and in the upper position on the shock tower, Camber -.5 deg. Ride height 5 mm, battery forward, Chamaeleon II geared 7.20. Warlock Red Springs (medium) Trinity 4499 or 4505 brushes, 4 degree caster, No Kickup. Front One-way. Droop 3 measured to bottom of screw boss on caster block with the supplied gauge.
Rear-Blue Spring all the way out out on top and out on the bottom. #2 shock piston, 30 weight oil, with .010 inch bevel cut on top by hand with a drill bit to ease bump travel of the shock. Camber link long, outer hub position, inner lower position on shock tower. Camber -.5 degree. 2 degrees of toe per side, No antisquat. Plastic Rear dogbones and diff. Droop 6 on supplied gauge.
I increased rear toe to 3 per side for open mod all else the same.
I was very pleased with the setup and plan to race it tomorrow. Here are a couple of experiments I did. When I started the rear was just a little loose but drivable. I moved the rear upper shock mount to the inner position, this tightened the rear just enough. On the first pack the car was a little slow and slid a bit too much. After the gears seated after 6-7 laps it was very fast. I moved the inner camber links to the upper position after the first pack. This lowered the roll center a bit and gave me the extra grip that I needed. The car was dialed.
Roll stiffness
We have a high speed turn off a long straight right into a hairpin. This is a good test to see if you have enough roll stiffness in the car. If the car is to lightly sprung or the roll centers are too low you will lack steering precision on this kind of turn and hit the corner marker on occasion. The TC3 seemed to be fine with the blue springs and the camber links in the upper position.
Camber
The TC3 also seems to work fine with a lot less than 2 degrees of camber on our asphalt track. The higher negative camber setting will cause a lot of wear on the inner edges of the tires.
Front to back balance.
The rear is 2.5 ounces heavier than the front. Worked great like this. Battery is forward. I moved the rear blue weight a little forward.
Torque Steer
No torque steer is apparent. I wonder if this is from the good left to right balance. I had to make no major driving style adjustments to change from the XXXS to the TC3.
Current Setup as of 4/05/03 I update this setup periodically.
Front- Blue Spring middle hole on stock shock tower and outer hole on bottom. #2 shock piston, 30 weight oil, with .010 inch bevel cut on top of each piston hole by hand with a drill bit to ease bump travel of the shock. Camber link long and in the upper position on the shock tower, Camber -.5 deg. Ride height 5 mm, battery forward, Chamaeleon II geared 7.20. Warlock Red Springs (medium) Trinity 4499 or 4505 brushes, 4 degree caster, No Kickup. Front One-way. Droop 3 measured to bottom of screw boss on caster block with the supplied gauge.
Rear-Blue Spring all the way out out on top and out on the bottom. #2 shock piston, 30 weight oil, with .010 inch bevel cut on top by hand with a drill bit to ease bump travel of the shock. Camber link long, outer hub position, inner lower position on shock tower. Camber -.5 degree. 2 degrees of toe per side, No antisquat. Plastic Rear dogbones and diff. Droop 6 on supplied gauge.
I increased rear toe to 3 per side for open mod all else the same.
I was very pleased with the setup and plan to race it tomorrow. Here are a couple of experiments I did. When I started the rear was just a little loose but drivable. I moved the rear upper shock mount to the inner position, this tightened the rear just enough. On the first pack the car was a little slow and slid a bit too much. After the gears seated after 6-7 laps it was very fast. I moved the inner camber links to the upper position after the first pack. This lowered the roll center a bit and gave me the extra grip that I needed. The car was dialed.
Roll stiffness
We have a high speed turn off a long straight right into a hairpin. This is a good test to see if you have enough roll stiffness in the car. If the car is to lightly sprung or the roll centers are too low you will lack steering precision on this kind of turn and hit the corner marker on occasion. The TC3 seemed to be fine with the blue springs and the camber links in the upper position.
Camber
The TC3 also seems to work fine with a lot less than 2 degrees of camber on our asphalt track. The higher negative camber setting will cause a lot of wear on the inner edges of the tires.
Front to back balance.
The rear is 2.5 ounces heavier than the front. Worked great like this. Battery is forward. I moved the rear blue weight a little forward.
Torque Steer
No torque steer is apparent. I wonder if this is from the good left to right balance. I had to make no major driving style adjustments to change from the XXXS to the TC3.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-06-2003 at 04:51 PM.
12-31-2002, 05:10 PM
#25
BRP Polished Steel Hinge Pins for the TC3
I broke the rear inner pivot support for the A-arm and bent a pin.
We had in stock a set of polished steel pins by BRP. These fit a lot better than the original pins and don't have the damage on the ends that my pins had. $5.00. These are what I would buy. Titanium is too weak for this application.
We had in stock a set of polished steel pins by BRP. These fit a lot better than the original pins and don't have the damage on the ends that my pins had. $5.00. These are what I would buy. Titanium is too weak for this application.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-31-2002 at 05:16 PM.
01-01-2003, 07:45 PM
#26
Race Results
The TC3 was fast tonight. I made a couple of small changes to the setup. The rear was slightly loose off power. I reduced the rear shock oil weight to 35. I then got some corner entry push so I moved the upper rear shock mount out one hole to the second hole out from the inside. The car was strapped. Tq'd and won the 19 turn class. A couple of the big dogs showed but did not race, though. Sorex 32 Tires with Hpi medium soft inserts at 65 F. The tires had 26 runs on them at the end of the race. I will make the changes to the setup post above.
Wheel bearing spacers
Seems that when I tighten the front wheel nuts (running a oneway) the wheels don't spin like they should with the car in the air after I goose the throttle. I had the same problem with the Losi. If I loosen the nut they spin well. The cure was to add an MIP axle spacer inside between the bearings to make the Aluminum spacer just a bit thicker. Plan to do this tomorrow. I don't like to run the nuts loose, they fall off sometimes if you do.
Wheel bearing spacers
Seems that when I tighten the front wheel nuts (running a oneway) the wheels don't spin like they should with the car in the air after I goose the throttle. I had the same problem with the Losi. If I loosen the nut they spin well. The cure was to add an MIP axle spacer inside between the bearings to make the Aluminum spacer just a bit thicker. Plan to do this tomorrow. I don't like to run the nuts loose, they fall off sometimes if you do.
01-01-2003, 11:01 PM
#27
Tech Addict
Try running some trinity alloy nuts that are slightly thinner as the kit nuts don't do up enough to get into the locking portion.
01-02-2003, 08:52 AM
#29
Lose the skinny body clips.
Some other mods I have done is to drill the battery hold down bolts with a 1/16 drill for the larger Losi body clips. It is also a good idea to use these larger Losi pins on the outside of the car. This will prevent loss during the crashes. I drilled some holes just above the battery foam on the front body posts in order to use two body clips to help keep the foam down, like on the Losi. This might help preserve the plastic bumper underneath. RPM also makes a bigger plastic bumper if you need more protection for the front A-arms.
Here is another pic with the battery forward to replace the low quality first picture in this thread.
Some other mods I have done is to drill the battery hold down bolts with a 1/16 drill for the larger Losi body clips. It is also a good idea to use these larger Losi pins on the outside of the car. This will prevent loss during the crashes. I drilled some holes just above the battery foam on the front body posts in order to use two body clips to help keep the foam down, like on the Losi. This might help preserve the plastic bumper underneath. RPM also makes a bigger plastic bumper if you need more protection for the front A-arms.
Here is another pic with the battery forward to replace the low quality first picture in this thread.
01-02-2003, 11:13 AM
#30
Re: replacement screws
Originally posted by coolrcdad
Do you know who makes steel or titanium screws for the bottom and what the sizes/quanity are? Thanks.
Do you know who makes steel or titanium screws for the bottom and what the sizes/quanity are? Thanks.
http://www.racinghardcore.com/index2.htm
Or; the TC3 steel screw kit from Associated can be purchased from any number of hobby shops that carry Associated gear.
Last edited by AGR#7; 01-02-2003 at 02:04 PM.