R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-09-2007, 02:17 AM   #1321
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 418
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skytrooper View Post
Hi, good to be part of the evo 5 club, i'm building my first evo ever

Only one problem, i have never assembled a hi tech car, such as this, and
do not know how one determines when to use shims?

I am at the very first assembly stages, assembling the prop shaft to the lower bulkhead with the 2 bearings and the manual shows to shim it with four 0.1mm shims, should i go with what the manual says? How do i know when i have shimmed correctly? It all feels the same with or without shims to me? the bearing seem to fit in fine with or without sims, i hope i can get my head around this.

It does not make sense 100% , hope anyone can help, Is there a way to test and feel for any "play" at some stage to determine this?

Thanks

ST

My Evo is also shimmed as the manual advise. THe only mod i have done, is to degrease the bearings with brake cleaner (over night) and then oil a bit with a thin oil (WD40, Neoval, Brunox).

This mod makes sense when you want to take part on serious race meetings.

If you dont degrease the bearings, than they are lasting much longer without clean and reoiling.

Myne spinn with fresh oiled bearings, up to 20 seconds (with wheels on, and of course without the pinion attached.)

Greetings Blueman
__________________
_______________________________________________________________________
TT01, F104, TRF415MSXXMRE07, TB Evo5 Exoten, TB Evo6, TRF417v7, TRF 418........
Blueman Austria is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2007, 02:21 AM   #1322
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Send a message via ICQ to rcnewb2004
Default

For some reason mine only spins for about 7 seconds, using WD40, but after cleaning out the original oil, you can really feel the car accelerate better and (psychologically) even feels like run time improves because the car "glides" so much better.
rcnewb2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2007, 06:37 AM   #1323
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 35
Default

Thanks all i have finished the rear diff completely and it is almost ready to be mounted to the deck, just one question,
to which side do i need to mount the spur gear mount to the spur gear, the "rough" side, where 96T is printed on the gear or the smooth side? And also why does some of the shims have these little notches on them, do they all need to be ligned up when adding them behind the bearing on the rear diff?

Thanks
skytrooper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2007, 08:44 AM   #1324
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Send a message via ICQ to rcnewb2004
Default

I do not think it will matter how the spur gear is mounted (at least i do not recall orientation).

I don't know why there are notches in some of the shims, but I think they are to help you identify them easier.

The little notches do not need to be aligned because the rotation of the shaft and vibrations of the car will dis-align them anyway, and I don't see any purpose in aligning them...


Correct me if i am wrong!
rcnewb2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2007, 11:06 AM   #1325
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 35
Default

thanks!, Sounds good, so my diff is ready to be mounted, does everyone go with the 96T, i would like to stay with the kit spur options, which gear would put less strain on the drivetrain and motor, i'm not racing yet, so this question, from a "longest durability of drivetrain" point of view. Thanks.
skytrooper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2007, 12:14 AM   #1326
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 418
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skytrooper View Post
thanks!, Sounds good, so my diff is ready to be mounted, does everyone go with the 96T, i would like to stay with the kit spur options, which gear would put less strain on the drivetrain and motor, i'm not racing yet, so this question, from a "longest durability of drivetrain" point of view. Thanks.
I never runned the original spur and pinion, i am using 48dpi spurs.

At the moment i have a 71 tooth spur atachted, because for the racecup i ride the Evo, this spur is reglemented with the Evo5.

in 40 dpi the largest spur you can attach is a 74 or maybe a 75. (I havent tried it yet). So it should be possible to achive ratios up to 9.0-1 i think.

Greetings from Austria, Blueman
__________________
_______________________________________________________________________
TT01, F104, TRF415MSXXMRE07, TB Evo5 Exoten, TB Evo6, TRF417v7, TRF 418........
Blueman Austria is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2007, 03:33 AM   #1327
Tech Regular
 
Pie_robot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 461
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Pie_robot
Default

skytrooper, wat motor r u using?

bigger spur/smaller pinnon= faster/less acceleration(more strain)

smaller spur/bigger pinnon= vice versa
__________________
Tamiya 415MRE- GTB +10.5- Spektrum = 19t
Tamiya F103gt - 17.5t -lipo(yah) = 2wd stock
Tamiya M03 -Spektrum - NiMh(boo)= Mini

Bodgy Brothers Racing......19t,Stock,Mini,540,2wd stock
JMP Graphics....sparkly
www.castlehillraceway.com
Pie_robot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2007, 12:08 PM   #1328
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 418
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pie_robot View Post
skytrooper, wat motor r u using?

bigger spur/smaller pinnon= faster/less acceleration(more strain)

smaller spur/bigger pinnon= vice versa
If you mean me, : 23T and 17T Motors. Depends on the rules of the race meeting.

The spur is a 71T and the pinion a 26T. With these ones you get a final 1:6,6.

Greetings Blueman
__________________
_______________________________________________________________________
TT01, F104, TRF415MSXXMRE07, TB Evo5 Exoten, TB Evo6, TRF417v7, TRF 418........
Blueman Austria is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2007, 12:48 AM   #1329
Tech Regular
 
Pie_robot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 461
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Pie_robot
Default

nah i was talking to skytrooper
not u Blueman Austria
__________________
Tamiya 415MRE- GTB +10.5- Spektrum = 19t
Tamiya F103gt - 17.5t -lipo(yah) = 2wd stock
Tamiya M03 -Spektrum - NiMh(boo)= Mini

Bodgy Brothers Racing......19t,Stock,Mini,540,2wd stock
JMP Graphics....sparkly
www.castlehillraceway.com
Pie_robot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2007, 11:09 AM   #1330
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 35
Default

I am finished with both diffs, the blue sure does make it look good

Now i have managed to take of the blue on the turnbuckle shafts with my plier's, and the adjusters also have some plier markings on it, cannot believe i did it, it happened on all of my turnbuckles, anyone else managed to do this?

I'm thinking of buying new sets, how do you turn these adjuster on without causing any damage? Wish i had rubber pliers.

Pie Robot, i'm not yet sue of my choice of motor, i was thinking of going brushles, im my opinion they are still somewhat bulky, especially the speedcontrollers, or have that changed in the meantime?

Anyway thanks for the help so far.
skytrooper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2007, 11:17 AM   #1331
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Send a message via ICQ to rcnewb2004
Default

I put the pliers on the metal part... and use some tissue to stop pliers from scratching it... then turn the plastic with my fingers. I would suggest not worrying about the visible details and focus on having a running car first. Replace the "ugly" parts when the car gets knocked around and functionality is affected.
rcnewb2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 09:27 AM   #1332
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 63
Default

When the car was anounced I saw a pic of optional hardened coated aluminium gears. Did these ever come out?
Black Adder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2007, 09:40 AM   #1333
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Send a message via ICQ to rcnewb2004
Default

Nope... at least i never heard of them... otherwise.. would've bought them already... despite them having their disadvantages.
rcnewb2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2007, 08:14 AM   #1334
Tech Addict
 
Barry White's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: HEAVEN
Posts: 720
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb2004 View Post
Nope... at least i never heard of them... otherwise.. would've bought them already... despite them having their disadvantages.
See bottom left:
Barry White is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2007, 08:28 AM   #1335
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 63
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by C van der Hagen View Post

Weet jij daar iets van?
Black Adder is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Selling Schumacher Mi2, Tamiya M02, Tamiya TA04-S, Tamiya TB Evolution 3 Surikarn Ltd st_rob Australia For Sale/Trade 4 12-23-2008 07:37 PM
FS: Tamiya TB Evolution II (NEW) ivan3721 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 05-18-2008 05:56 PM
FS: Tamiya TB Evolution 5 veecee Australia For Sale/Trade 3 07-20-2007 08:13 PM
tamiya tb evolution 5 b-man777 Electric On-Road 1 05-24-2006 11:38 AM
XXX-S GP VS Tamiya Evolution III capricess Electric On-Road 29 01-27-2003 08:49 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:39 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0