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Old 11-08-2006, 04:53 AM   #841
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Gonna steal from your pic and edit it, to show you what I mean.



If you remove your shaft and you pull back and forth on the cup on that propeller. I have about 2mm of play there, so where the arrow is you have 3x 3x2mm spacers, would you recommend I added another spacer to clean up that 2mm play and shim till I get rid of all the slop, or is there meant to be that mount of play? I am open to suggestions.
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Old 11-08-2006, 04:59 AM   #842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Cheers bender,
That was on my list of things to try (but quite low down). I currently only run a bar on the front (soft), but what you say makes sense (more than likely rear of the car is rolling too much in the low speed, causing the snappiness), so I'll try that first next time out.

Cheers
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No problems.

Your analysis is correct - it's the rear of the car rolling too much that makes it break loose into turns. Took me a while to get that concept
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:04 AM   #843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautilian
If you remove your shaft and you pull back and forth on the cup on that propeller. I have about 2mm of play there, so where the arrow is you have 3x 3x2mm spacers, would you recommend I added another spacer to clean up that 2mm play and shim till I get rid of all the slop, or is there meant to be that mount of play? I am open to suggestions.
2mm is way too much play there

What you want to do is shim it tight so that when you turn the input shaft over you feel it is binding. Then take out shims (1 at a time) and re-test.

Eventually you'll get to a point where the input shaft turns over freely but it feels like only a very tiny amount of play (like 0.1mm) - if you get it like that then that's just about perfect

Make sure each time you test it you have the rear bulkhead and the motor mount tightened on the chassis and top deck because if they're loose they it won't be as accurate.
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:05 AM   #844
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how are you guys getting 15 secs of free rolling with the wheels off... thats crazy! i can barely get my car to do 2 secs... so what you guys are doing is having the chassis on a car stand wheels off motor not installed and then turn the hubs as fast as you can and letting go and watching your whole drive train just spin for 15 secs?
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:08 AM   #845
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Any news on the white gears?

The black ones don't last long without lubrication
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:08 AM   #846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender
2mm is way too much play there

What you want to do is shim it tight so that when you turn the input shaft over you feel it is binding. Then take out shims (1 at a time) and re-test.

Eventually you'll get to a point where the input shaft turns over freely but it feels like only a very tiny amount of play (like 0.1mm) - if you get it like that then that's just about perfect

Make sure each time you test it you have the rear bulkhead and the motor mount tightened on the chassis and top deck because if they're loose they it won't be as accurate.
Should I shim in front of behind the motor mount?
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:10 AM   #847
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Hey tryhard,

So 15 seconds timed, no wheels, spin spur gear by finger ? (sorry i am trying to get a reasonable comparison with a "good car") i am like the only one with an evo 5 in my area
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:59 AM   #848
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Go to Tamiya Web site and follow David Juns Ball Bearing directions.... Mines spin for about 10 sec with wheels on (rubber). But My Ta05 spin just as long and thats a belt car.

NOTE:
But its important to make sure your car is shim by the manual.
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Old 11-08-2006, 06:52 AM   #849
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mines 15 sec with wheels ON. Grab the rear wheels, and spin as hard as possible... or just grab a front one and spin the drivetrain backwards (the front oneway helps here... locks up nicely being spun backwards ).

HiH
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Old 11-08-2006, 07:51 AM   #850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketRacer
you seem to forget the things you say....you say the above quote now, but a few months ago you say this below?? do you secretly love Tamiya products? it's ok you can tell us!!



i think this thread should go back to being an Evo 5 thread. to the rest of the Evo 5'ers, i am sorry about taking up this space for this problem and if i offended anyone with my posts i apologise.
Notice you said a few MONTHS ago. Look man, lets get this into persepctive. The 415 isnt the EVO. I jumped in here because I prefer shaft and the EVO looks like a nice car. But like I said, which I have learned after doing some research, there is no support here in NYC. So I guess that nullifies my wanting a Tamiya as previously stated in that old post. Tamiya makes excellent products but without support serves me no purpose. You still are a jackanapes

jackanapes- 1: an impudent or conceited fellow b : a saucy or mischievous child
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:00 AM   #851
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@bxpitbull, thanks for the english lesson. you seem to enjoy name calling. can you drop this please 'cos you're taking up space on a very useful thread.

@rcnewb, mine doesn't spin as freely as well. but i will start rebuilding them this evening. following what the guys have mentioned here. hopefully i can get that kind of freewheeling action.

@tryhard, what class do you run your Evo in??
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:20 AM   #852
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[QUOTE=RocketRacer]@bxpitbull, thanks for the english lesson. you seem to enjoy name calling. can you drop this please 'cos you're taking up space on a very useful thread.

QUOTE]

done.
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:37 AM   #853
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THx TryHard, its hard to get some good answers. When i can get out of this mess, i will start rebuilding my evo 5 and aim for magic 15 seconds. I have replaced some of the drive train bearings w/ ceramics also. i find that i can get more free spin that way. How "bad" is it to not oil ceramic bearings? i figured they can stand a fair amount of heat.... and w/o oiling them... it should really help the free spin alot... ofcourse, i realize that free-spin behavior of the drive train can change underloads.... but... i am just curious anyway

Also, (*i know this is the evo 5 thread, but i am just wondeirng if anyone has any answers*), What is the optimal emissivity setting on the temp gun so as to give the best readings for the surface of our batteries? I want my icc charger nubmers to come a little bit closer to my temp gun numbers.

Is there any effective way i can "calibrate" this?
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Old 11-08-2006, 09:01 AM   #854
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RCnewb
i think the temperature on your charger will not be accurate..from my last reading on the ICC thread the charger will read much lower than what the temp actually is...make sure to set your temp cutoff lower than you normally do or you'll cook your batts.

Not sure 'bout everyone else...but I always oil my bearing...I would think if the bearings aren't oil the friction will heat up the internal of the bearing...giving you a higher chance of seizing the bearing.
the bearing should become much more free as you use them.after cleaning and oiling my bearing i would put a practice motor and run the car at mid throttle (on a car stand) to free them up.

Most of my shafties I could spin for around 10 to 15 seconds without problem. mostly found I just had to keep the gears clean and shim up perfectly...
You should be dialed soon.
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Old 11-08-2006, 11:02 AM   #855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Also, the suspension block spacers are rather nice too... usefully avaliable in 0.5mm and 1mm thicknesses much better support for the blocks in a crash than two small shims (I have found that the suspension blocks can occasionaly bend in a very heavy crash, if raised up on spacers).
Ed, what exactly are the spacers in the suspension mount for? What purpose do they server as I see Tamiya makes a 0.5mm and a 1.0mm.

Thanks man in advance
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