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Old 11-02-2006, 12:33 AM   #796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautilian
How do you guys know you have shimmed something correctly. For example when you shim your rear diff, do you want to eliminate most of the play in the back but leave enough for the diff to spin freely? Or am I getting shimming completely wrong?

Naut

you have to get a feel for it. there will definitely be small variations from chassis to chassis. the other good test is on the track.

Naut, how would you rate the Twister ESC?
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Old 11-02-2006, 12:37 AM   #797
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There has to be a more accurate method. No offence RR.

As I said in my PM to you, this ESC gets a 10/10 from me.

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Old 11-02-2006, 01:17 AM   #798
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none taken Naut. that's the way i found the best shimming for my Evo 5. and it varies between my two Evo's.
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:42 AM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautilian
How do you guys know you have shimmed something correctly. For example when you shim your rear diff, do you want to eliminate most of the play in the back but leave enough for the diff to spin freely? Or am I getting shimming completely wrong?

Naut
i shim it like a 64dp spur ,just a nats backlash ,but as RR say`s it`s a feel
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:46 AM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyber3d
With the proper shimming (everywhere!) how much slop do you have in the front wheels. What I mean is: does your toe and camber slop equal +/- 0.5 degrees (total of 1 degree) as mine does?
yep my wheels flop all over the place 3 things you can do
1)rough up the inside of the hub so the bearing sit`s a bit tighter in hub
3) glue bearing in hub (bit buggered if you break the hub though)
3) get a spacer that fit`s between the 2 bearings & supports the axle between the 2

even when wheels a wobbly tha car handles & goes fine
just remember a car with no slop anyway ie;steering,wheels
makes a car very sensitive to drive (harder)
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:49 AM   #801
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Glad you mentioned 64p spurs. I picked up a few RW racing spurs and noticed they are 1/2 the thickness of the standard Tamiya ones. Am I going to use shims to compensate for the difference in thickness or a spacer?

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Old 11-02-2006, 01:54 AM   #802
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it`s only the spur that`s thin it will have no bearing on the spur carrier on how it sits on the input shaft

RR
look @ the MRT MX speedo
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:27 AM   #803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nautilian
Glad you mentioned 64p spurs. I picked up a few RW racing spurs and noticed they are 1/2 the thickness of the standard Tamiya ones. Am I going to use shims to compensate for the difference in thickness or a spacer?

Naut
Why would you do that? RW spurs are much stronger than tamiya spurs. Just adjust your pinion. You want your spur to run wobble free. Putting shims behind only parts of the spur will make it run unbalanced.
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:06 AM   #804
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Default 64dp on shaft cars

me perssonally think that 64dp & shaft don`t go .i moved over to 48dp

i got more damage to 64 then 48 , not by bad meashing just the 64 can`t take the knocks & bangs like the 48 can
just me
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Old 11-02-2006, 10:11 AM   #805
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Oops.....Ha Ha!.....I think I`ve found My Steering Problem.
-The 2.6x22mm Shaft(ML6) that holds down the Caster Block to the Suspension Arms was half-way out. I`ve tightened the 3x3mm Grub Screws down better this time.
-I`ve adjusted the Front Shocks Preload much better(better match).
-I`ve set-up the Front and Rear Droop on a Droop Gauge.

I don`t test - run My Kits/Cars on a Track; so the Surface is somewhat curved.
Because of that; it takes me longer to get kits to run straight.
-I live in New York City.....there`s only 1 Track out here.

I doubt I`ll ever Race this Kit/Car. It`s the best look`n Tamiya Kit I`ve ever owned(I`ve owned/own a TRF TA04, TT-01, TB Evo 4).....and it looks better than My HPI Pro 4.
-Overall; I have a Hard time getting Parts for Tamiya Kits.

I`ll just get this thing to run a little straighter than it`s running now and put it on the Shelf with My Retired Pro 4 Hara Edition(because it`s now Discontinued).
-I`ll only run it on My Street/Block when I want to Show of the Kit/Car.


Most Pro Kits have some play(loose areas) on it. MY TB Evo 4 and Pro 4 have the same play spots as My TB Evo 5(the wobble-like wheels). -It doesn`t bother how the kit will run.

Thanks

Take Care.

Last edited by GuyIsDamGood; 11-02-2006 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:44 PM   #806
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Anybody have a good carpet set-up for foams and rubber? 27Turn
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Old 11-05-2006, 05:00 AM   #807
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Front
Oil 40
Spring White
Shock tower pos 3
wishbone pos 2
camber link pos 1
2mm under inner camber link
front block 1D
rear block 1e
camber 1.5
hard stabilizer
4 degree castor
0 toe

Rear
Oil 40
spring light blue
shock tower pos 3
wishbone pos 2
camber link inner pos 2
camber outlink pos c
1.5mm under inner link
1mm under outter link
camber 1.5
toe 2.5

CS 22 pre glued
27 turn motor run 72 22 48 pitch this was for a 15 second a lap track
Hotbodies d with high down force wing
hope this helps
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:09 PM   #808
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Ran the evo 5 today, Imust say car is pretty good, use the stock set-up(per manual), ran foam with 96 spur and 32 pinion. I was a second faster from my previous car. Only thing is did not finish the mains since I broke my one-way gear.
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:39 PM   #809
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@ wotcars - which 27T motor did you run? do you have a pic of the track? based on the assumption that the tyres are 63mm diameter, your rollout is 24.82mm, how does the car feel with this rollout? does it punch hard out the corners? how long was the longest straight on your track? sorry for the questions, i am just trying to get my car on the pace as well. thanks
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Old 11-06-2006, 02:04 PM   #810
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The motor was an Atlas 27 it seamed to have plenty of punch and top end was out punching nearly everybody else in my final and about the same top end may be a little bit more then most
the straight must be about 100 foot and the bottom corner is flat out so the total lenght i would say would be about 130
I'll pm you the track
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