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Old 07-12-2006, 09:08 AM   #436
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Just putting my EVO V together at long last , seems to be a good step up in terms of quaility over my old EVO III. I just hope it goes as fast as it looks.

Just need to sort of few items out like some 64dp spurs , motor , new tyres etc and i will be all ready to race.
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:20 AM   #437
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Hi Guys, I'm thinking to get a EVO5. But i've got a question first.
How "easy" is it to change a spur? What are the steps?

remove top deck, remove motor mount, slide out spur adaptor?
Any idea?
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:31 AM   #438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kasey
Hi Guys, I'm thinking to get a EVO5. But i've got a question first.
How "easy" is it to change a spur? What are the steps?

remove top deck, remove motor mount, slide out spur adaptor?
Any idea?
Its not that easy really:

Remove top deck, rear gearbox, motor mount, centre prop shaft cup then the spur gear mount then you can remove the spur.
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Old 07-12-2006, 12:12 PM   #439
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Default evo 5

spur gear change...
I have found in shafties...if you take the top deck off and just the unscrew the motor mount then slide it off....it spur gear should be exposed to allow the removal...assuming the lower chassis spur gear opening allows for a little movement forward...Can this be done in an Evo 5??? which way do the spur gear screws face?

I'm dying to get an EVO 5....post up some pics .....come on guys...Need to see how everyone is placing electronics.
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Old 07-12-2006, 12:41 PM   #440
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I ran my EVO for the first time this past Sunday and it was great. The steering was incrediably responsive but at the same time very stable. The car wasn't twitchy at all. The funny thing about that is I found after the first run that I had my castor blocks reversed. I actually had 4 degrees of positive castor on each side. The car was awesome like that. I had no motor and I was still able to run with the faster guys. It was so good, I'm debating whether I want to switch the blocks back
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:17 PM   #441
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Pic`s

42`s are really close to the rear input drive cup aswell (but doesn`t touch)

also car needs 80g of weight added to bring upto scratch (only got on 40g at the mo)
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:19 PM   #442
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i`ll get pics with Paek Li-Po in next time i`m dossing about
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:20 PM   #443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOTMAN
I ran my EVO for the first time this past Sunday and it was great. The steering was incrediably responsive but at the same time very stable. The car wasn't twitchy at all. The funny thing about that is I found after the first run that I had my castor blocks reversed. I actually had 4 degrees of positive castor on each side. The car was awesome like that. I had no motor and I was still able to run with the faster guys. It was so good, I'm debating whether I want to switch the blocks back
i might have to try that. i added 2mm spacers on the steering rack. got more steering more experimenting this sat.
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Old 07-12-2006, 04:50 PM   #444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
the biggest problem I have is that the spur is very close to protruding below the chassis. I reckon a 100tooth is about the limit in that regard, before the spur stick out below the chassis.

HiH
Ed
In 48 pitch terms, 73 tooth will be just level below the chassis. Looks like the car wasn't made for top end modified racing in mind.
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Old 07-12-2006, 04:53 PM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
Pic`s

42`s are really close to the rear input drive cup aswell (but doesn`t touch)

also car needs 80g of weight added to bring upto scratch (only got on 40g at the mo)
Hey colin,
your steering link is in the wrong place... on the servo horn the nut should still be in the middle hole, and you line it up on the outer one... take a close look at the destructions
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:20 AM   #446
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Oh is that what instructions are for ,
i build it then when it goes wrong then look at the destructions
might actually use it this thurs down maritime , just to see how it goes

if you reverse the 4 degree castor blocks , then you have zero yes/no
or would you have 4 degree anti-dive
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Old 07-13-2006, 08:47 AM   #447
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What are the part numbers for the A , B , C and X suspension blocks for the EVO V as im about to send an email of to champ for a whole bundle of bits. Getting bevels gears , suspension blocks , ball diff parts so anything else worth getting while im at it ???
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Old 07-13-2006, 10:09 AM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
Oh is that what instructions are for ,
i build it then when it goes wrong then look at the destructions
might actually use it this thurs down maritime , just to see how it goes

if you reverse the 4 degree castor blocks , then you have zero yes/no
or would you have 4 degree anti-dive
Assuming your suspension blocks are even on both sides, you would have 4 degrees positive castor (anti-dive)
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Old 07-16-2006, 08:06 AM   #449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DOTMAN
Assuming your suspension blocks are even on both sides, you would have 4 degrees positive castor (anti-dive)
Positive caster and anit dive are 2 different things.
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Old 07-16-2006, 11:12 AM   #450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
Oh is that what instructions are for ,
i build it then when it goes wrong then look at the destructions
might actually use it this thurs down maritime , just to see how it goes

if you reverse the 4 degree castor blocks , then you have zero yes/no
or would you have 4 degree anti-dive
OMG Colin I SOOOO can't believe you just said that ! The only way to have 0 Castor is to use 0 C-Hubs...
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