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Old 07-04-2006, 01:41 PM   #406
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Thanks, Ill try/
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:07 PM   #407
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Originally Posted by drew85
Does anyone know where I can get gears for it? No one seems to have them yet.

Thanks
I got gears off of ebay
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Old 07-05-2006, 05:35 AM   #408
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RC Champ have the bevel gears in stock.
Email us at champ_international@yahoo.co.jp
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:08 AM   #409
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Right,
building my Evo5 at the moment, just want to check a few things (it is my first shaftie.)

Basically, Can I get away without running the diff covers indoors? I mainly going to use the car for carpet racing, so I don't think that anything getting into the drivetrain should be a problem. Anyone currently do this?

Also, greese on the gears... should I, shant I? I've smeared a bit of the ceramic greese that comes in the kit over them for now, but I think I read somewhere that for the freeest drivetrain you shouldn't use any on the gears.

Finally, shimming.... now I know this is a big thing for a shaft. Any advice on the shims to place, a) on the diffs and b) the input shafts? At the moment I've built the car as the manual, but I did read on here that the diff shiming may be a little too tight. Should I just run the car first, and then check the shimming (more than likely I'll just wire up a motor and let the car run on the bench anyway)

Bar thoose few bits, everything is falling together really well. Added a few extra bits to the kit (Ti nitride shock shafts and hinge pins, and the new tamiya ballnuts, to make roll centre easier to adjust), can't wait to get it on the track.... got to build the front end first though

Cheers
Ed
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Old 07-06-2006, 07:54 AM   #410
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When i had my EVO III i never added grease to the gears and never had any problems.

As for the rest im building my EVO V next week after racing this sunday at stafford with the TRF415 for maybe the last time so shimming i cannot affer advice just yet as i don't know how tight it is when built to manual.

Dust covers for indoor i would tend to run them as it will help keep all the dust and bits of carpet out off the diff/one way and keep it running smoother for longer.
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:19 AM   #411
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I use McLube Sailkote on the one-way gear and smaller gears. Spraying it on the diff gear more than likely will make the diff harder to adjust as it will be slipping all the time. Good freaking stuff!



Unfortunately, I could not find my bottle so I ended up using White Lightning as a secondary choice. It works but I would prefer the Sailkote.

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Old 07-06-2006, 09:37 AM   #412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Right,
building my Evo5 at the moment, just want to check a few things (it is my first shaftie.)

Basically, Can I get away without running the diff covers indoors? I mainly going to use the car for carpet racing, so I don't think that anything getting into the drivetrain should be a problem. Anyone currently do this?

Also, greese on the gears... should I, shant I? I've smeared a bit of the ceramic greese that comes in the kit over them for now, but I think I read somewhere that for the freeest drivetrain you shouldn't use any on the gears.

Finally, shimming.... now I know this is a big thing for a shaft. Any advice on the shims to place, a) on the diffs and b) the input shafts? At the moment I've built the car as the manual, but I did read on here that the diff shiming may be a little too tight. Should I just run the car first, and then check the shimming (more than likely I'll just wire up a motor and let the car run on the bench anyway)

Bar thoose few bits, everything is falling together really well. Added a few extra bits to the kit (Ti nitride shock shafts and hinge pins, and the new tamiya ballnuts, to make roll centre easier to adjust), can't wait to get it on the track.... got to build the front end first though

Cheers
Ed
Ed, indoors you should be okay to remove the diff covers. hopefully tamiya releases a clear version of the covers for easier viewing of the gears.
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Old 07-06-2006, 11:04 AM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtypec
I use McLube Sailkote on the one-way gear and smaller gears. Spraying it on the diff gear more than likely will make the diff harder to adjust as it will be slipping all the time. Good freaking stuff!



Unfortunately, I could not find my bottle so I ended up using White Lightning as a secondary choice. It works but I would prefer the Sailkote.

haha.... McLube I can get....
Being a yacht racer (and living in Cowes, yacht capital of the world), I know there isn't anything that can't be fixed with a gerber, can of Mclube, and a roll of Duct tape

Cheers for the tips guys, looking forward to getting the car on the track now.

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Old 07-07-2006, 09:04 AM   #414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fujio
RC Champ have the bevel gears in stock.
Email us at champ_international@yahoo.co.jp
Email just sent .
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:06 AM   #415
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Ok just looking through the manual it does not say what rear toe it has when built to the manual, anyone know ?

Also what mount blocks will give me a good range of rear toe ? about 1.5 to 3 degree's should do it. Are these mounts the same as on my old TRF415 with the standard arms ?
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:38 AM   #416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk
Ok just looking through the manual it does not say what rear toe it has when built to the manual, anyone know ?

Also what mount blocks will give me a good range of rear toe ? about 1.5 to 3 degree's should do it. Are these mounts the same as on my old TRF415 with the standard arms ?
you get 3 deg of rear toe with the kit blocks.
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:19 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendracer_uk
Ok just looking through the manual it does not say what rear toe it has when built to the manual, anyone know ?

Also what mount blocks will give me a good range of rear toe ? about 1.5 to 3 degree's should do it. Are these mounts the same as on my old TRF415 with the standard arms ?
With an E as the rear most block, XA = 3deg, X = 2.5deg, A = 2deg, B = 1.5deg. so what you need are an X, A, and B block extra.
I also grabbed some to allow some front arm sweep too. So I grabbed an extra C, B and A block.

HiH
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Old 07-07-2006, 08:55 PM   #418
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hey Tryhard,

what are the new tamiya ballnuts? can i take a look at them or u have a part # or something... this is my first shafty too... i am in HK right now, just want to get everything i need here before I go back to canada!
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Old 07-08-2006, 01:37 AM   #419
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The new ball nuts are ones you can use a hex driver on. like the upper kingpin on the steering, but threaded all the way down. Means if you drill a hole in your ball cup, you should never need to take them off the nut
Also they are shorter than the other ball nuts, by 1mm (eg you use 3mm of shims currently, you need 4mm with these to get the same height)


Parts #'s
5mm length = 53906
8mm length = 53907

I've now put them on both my MSX and Evo5... should make rollcentre adjustment much easier

HiH
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Old 07-08-2006, 02:08 AM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard
Means if you drill a hole in your ball cup, you should never need to take them off the nut



HiH
Ed
And i had allready done this to me LCG (gone) & now my cyclone & evo 5

only yokomo have made use of this by pre drilling there off-road ballcups
but hotbodies even though they have the studs can`t be arse to drill the cup`s or tamiya

so much better this way ,every time you pop a ball cup it gets sloppier & more chewed up with your pliers

just drill hole or ream it so you can put hex drive straight in to undo & adjust

no start building mine yet
just cross referencing parts from evo 4 to evo 5, hubs, castor blocks are the same
don`t like the grub screw pinch for pin/castor block i preferr the screw pin that tamiya did
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