Tamiya TB Evolution V
#2147
Tech Initiate
#2148
Tech Initiate
You can use the damper stays from the TRF 419 !
They fit perfectly and you can combine them with the Short dampers from the TB 04 Pro, TB EVO 6 or TRF Short Damper set
I also have the steering set form the EVO 6 in the car !
I hope i can race my TB Evo V - Exotek V2 on Sunday !
Andre
They fit perfectly and you can combine them with the Short dampers from the TB 04 Pro, TB EVO 6 or TRF Short Damper set
I also have the steering set form the EVO 6 in the car !
I hope i can race my TB Evo V - Exotek V2 on Sunday !
Andre
I am interested in using damper stays from 419. I would say they fit although it is stated in rcmart that they only fit in 419 chassis kit :S. I'd like to use big bore dampers, but I think they perfectly fit both in 5ms and 419 dumper stays.
What I wonder is the direct fitting of short dampers in 419 original towers. They probably fit, more or less, but I would say that you need a "low profile" damper stays in order to let them work properly.
On the other hand, is there any reason to use the 419 ones instead of my 5ms ones? I have the original ones and they are just ok, but I would like to use all 419 parts I can use.
Thanks for your help and regards
Akaron
#2149
@Akaron
The 419 damper stays are a direct fit low profile solution for the TB EVO V !
Normal dampers will be to long !
And I use the TB EVO 6 dampers as they are the big bore version of the short TRF dampers ( TRF Short Big Bore dampers )
Andre
Will make some photo's and post them tomorrow !
but I would say that you need a "low profile" damper stays in order to let them work properly.
Normal dampers will be to long !
And I use the TB EVO 6 dampers as they are the big bore version of the short TRF dampers ( TRF Short Big Bore dampers )
Andre
Will make some photo's and post them tomorrow !
#2150
#2151
Tech Initiate
Let me please ask some more questions (questions are all around me!):
- Regarding shocks and stays (please correct me if wrong):
- I can use 419's big bore dampers (42287) on my original Evo5ms damper stays. This is my way to go at first.
- I could use both M-Chasis big bore low profile (42291) and "normal bore" low profile (54000) if I decided to use 419 damper stays instead of the Evo5ms ones. If so, I would try 42291 + 419 damper stays in a near future...
- I think your are using TB04 spool and diff, do you use 40/20, 40/16, 40/17? I have some gears from Evo4, 5ms and TB04, so I think I could use whatever combination is needed. Do you need some modding or was direct fit?
- Also related to gears and bevels, given the fact that no covers are used, do you use grease on bevels/gears? I drive in outdoors and I am afraid that using grease in an open bulkhead would not be a really good idea regarding dirtiness, but... is it ok to not use grease at all?
- I can see in the manuals that TB Evo series are using 3mm suspension spacers while 5.5mm ones are used in TRF series. Are there any good reasons for that? I think both sizes fit my Evo5ms. I will use 418/19 arms, 419 c-hubs, 418/19 uprights, double cardan, etc, but not sure of using 3mm or 5.5mm spacers :S.
- Regarding suspension mounts, do you use 0.5mm spacers? I will use 1E/1A-1xA rear and 1C+1C/1xC front, but not sure on using 0,5mm spacers :S. Probably just a setup question more than a "building" one. If so, it does not really matter now (I will try both ways soon or later).
- I see that you (and some other people) cut off the top of the 5mm ball adjusters (53601). I guess that i) you get less friction and ii) you remove turnbuckles with the hex driver instead of popping them out, right? Althought I have a ball end remover from YR, I'm doomed to destroy adjusters every time I try to pop them out :S. I'd rather cut them off and use the hex driver instead of ball end remover, right?
I'm sorry in advance for the huge amount of questions. I'm really a novice but really meticulous person, so I have more questions than I would like to have.
Thanks and best regards!
Akaron
Last edited by Akaron; 09-17-2015 at 10:44 AM.
#2152
Picture's of the Evo5 and 419 rear damper stays
I tested the normal big bore dampers icw the 419 damper stays and it also fits when using the new Tamiya springs or Yokomo springs.
Andre
I tested the normal big bore dampers icw the 419 damper stays and it also fits when using the new Tamiya springs or Yokomo springs.
Andre
#2153
Tech Initiate
4. I can see in the manuals that TB Evo series are using 3mm suspension spacers while 5.5mm ones are used in TRF series. Are there any good reasons for that? I think both sizes fit my Evo5ms. I will use 418/19 arms, 419 c-hubs, 418/19 uprights, double cardan, etc, but not sure of using 3mm or 5.5mm spacers :S.
Regards
Akaron
#2154
Exactly what I would like to achieve . It looks awesome! New exotek chassis, 7075 wheel axle and so on!
Let me please ask some more questions (questions are all around me!):
I'm sorry in advance for the huge amount of questions. I'm really a novice but really meticulous person, so I have more questions than I would like to have.
Thanks and best regards!
Akaron
Let me please ask some more questions (questions are all around me!):
- Regarding shocks and stays (please correct me if wrong):
- I can use 419's big bore dampers (42287) on my original Evo5ms damper stays. This is my way to go at first.
- I could use both M-Chasis big bore low profile (42291) and "normal bore" low profile (54000) if I decided to use 419 damper stays instead of the Evo5ms ones. If so, I would try 42291 + 419 damper stays in a near future...
- I think your are using TB04 spool and diff, do you use 40/20, 40/16, 40/17? I have some gears from Evo4, 5ms and TB04, so I think I could use whatever combination is needed. Do you need some modding or was direct fit? im running Stock Evo 5 gears.... TB04 gear diff. not sure what they are... i kept mine stock... my spool in the front is a EVO 5 Gear with TB04 outdrives with bushings on them so that when i hit the pipe it slips. but works like a spool.
- Also related to gears and bevels, given the fact that no covers are used, do you use grease on bevels/gears? I drive in outdoors and I am afraid that using grease in an open bulkhead would not be a really good idea regarding dirtiness, but... is it ok to not use grease at all? We dont use grease... besides it grease makes it less free. never seen anyone use grease and covers... no need for covers. if a rock hits it, it will bounce.... with grease it might stick. also never had a rock get stuck on mines... if you really care for diff covers you have to run stock evo 5 ball diffs.... in that case i would rather have a evo 6 if your really care for the covers... but i will say having alum bulkheads is a must for me... again no need for diff covers... but again i only race my cars on well prepped surfaces... no tiny rocks...
- I can see in the manuals that TB Evo series are using 3mm suspension spacers while 5.5mm ones are used in TRF series. Are there any good reasons for that? I think both sizes fit my Evo5ms. I will use 418/19 arms, 419 c-hubs, 418/19 uprights, double cardan, etc, but not sure of using 3mm or 5.5mm spacers :S. spacers on wheel base?? thats i just adjust that base on setup needs.
- Regarding suspension mounts, do you use 0.5mm spacers? I will use 1E/1A-1xA rear and 1C+1C/1xC front, but not sure on using 0,5mm spacers :S. Probably just a setup question more than a "building" one. If so, it does not really matter now (I will try both ways soon or later). i dont use the .5 spacers... i have the same blocks that you are running and will be running carpet...
- I see that you (and some other people) cut off the top of the 5mm ball adjusters (53601). I guess that i) you get less friction and ii) you remove turnbuckles with the hex driver instead of popping them out, right? Althought I have a ball end remover from YR, I'm doomed to destroy adjusters every time I try to pop them out :S. I'd rather cut them off and use the hex driver instead of ball end remover, right?
I'm sorry in advance for the huge amount of questions. I'm really a novice but really meticulous person, so I have more questions than I would like to have.
Thanks and best regards!
Akaron
#2155
Tech Elite
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Hilagang-Silangan, Estados Unidos
Posts: 2,917
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
I have a quick question here...
How does the Evo 5 compare to the Evo 4?
From what I see, the Evo 5 is sought after than the 4 and 6.
But Exotek came out with a conversion for the 6 which reconfigured how the motor is mounted.
How does the Evo 5 compare to the Evo 4?
From what I see, the Evo 5 is sought after than the 4 and 6.
But Exotek came out with a conversion for the 6 which reconfigured how the motor is mounted.
#2156
Tech Initiate
I really appreciate your help. Thank you very much Jacob!
Just some minor comments/questions :P
==> do you really mean 419 shocks + 419 damper stays? Pics from Electron make me think that shocks will be tight/compressed. I do not really know how to explain, but I think they need some more distance from arms to damper stays to get a natural fit. So probably low profile shocks are a better idea when using 419 shock towers. Anyway, I will go with Evo 5ms towers and 419 shocks first.
I will try for sure original evo5 one way gear (39t) and bevel (16t) with TB04/Evo6 gear diff and spool. Indeed, I think TB04 gears are pure plastic while evo 5 ones seems carbon fiber reinforced. So +1 to your suggestion . I will also take your advice regarding grease: no grease at all in gearings and some spare gears just in case!
In point 4, I did not mean wheel spacers but suspension arms spacers, ball connector spacers and so on. I have already realized that they are typed as 3mm in some sections/manuals but 5.5mm in others. It should be a typo as they are all the same product number (53539).
Thank you very much again for your support!
Regards
Akaron
Just some minor comments/questions :P
Save the headache and just buy full 419 shocks...
I will try for sure original evo5 one way gear (39t) and bevel (16t) with TB04/Evo6 gear diff and spool. Indeed, I think TB04 gears are pure plastic while evo 5 ones seems carbon fiber reinforced. So +1 to your suggestion . I will also take your advice regarding grease: no grease at all in gearings and some spare gears just in case!
In point 4, I did not mean wheel spacers but suspension arms spacers, ball connector spacers and so on. I have already realized that they are typed as 3mm in some sections/manuals but 5.5mm in others. It should be a typo as they are all the same product number (53539).
Thank you very much again for your support!
Regards
Akaron
#2157
Tech Initiate
On the other hand, Evo 6 is a completely redesigned model. I would say it has nothing to do with evo 4 and 5. Bulkheads and motor position (trying to avoid steering torque) are probably the less popular mods Tamiya has introduced. Steering torque should not be a real problem with stock motors. All in all, Evo 6 is not a reference chassis althought some people said it was a good car to drive. Fortunatelly, I'm sure that Miker from exotek has done a good job and their new evo 6 conversion just rocks .
I'm probably wrong/imprecise but it is what I can say... Hope it clarify something...
Regards
Akaron
Last edited by Akaron; 09-18-2015 at 08:33 AM.
#2158
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
I have both Evo 4 and 5ms. They are really different cars without mods. Evo 4 have plastic everywhere (outdrives tended to be desintegrated ). Evo 5 introduced 416 reversible suspension and so on. Anyway, I would say that both evo 4 and 5 follow the same patterns... Exotek made from evo 5 a beast for stock racing with their conversions, but there are some home made projects to also upgrade evo 4 (sadly, no exotek conversion for evo4). In the end, they are really competitive and cheaper shaft driven cars, compared to awesomatic, at least...
On the other hand, Evo 6 is a completely redesigned model. I would say it have nothing to do with evo 4 and 5. Bulheads and motor position (trying to avoid steering torque) are probably the less popular mods Tamiya has introduced. Steering torque should no be a real problem with stock motors. All in all, Evo 6 is not a reference chassis althought some people said it was a good car to drive. Fortunatelly, I'm sure that Miker from exotek has done a good job and their new evo 6 conversion just rocks .
I'm probably wrong/imprecise but it is what I can say... Hope it clarify something...
Regards
Akaron
On the other hand, Evo 6 is a completely redesigned model. I would say it have nothing to do with evo 4 and 5. Bulheads and motor position (trying to avoid steering torque) are probably the less popular mods Tamiya has introduced. Steering torque should no be a real problem with stock motors. All in all, Evo 6 is not a reference chassis althought some people said it was a good car to drive. Fortunatelly, I'm sure that Miker from exotek has done a good job and their new evo 6 conversion just rocks .
I'm probably wrong/imprecise but it is what I can say... Hope it clarify something...
Regards
Akaron
Is the bulkhead holes pattern are the same on the bottom chassis?
#2159
Tech Elite
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Hilagang-Silangan, Estados Unidos
Posts: 2,917
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
I have both Evo 4 and 5ms. They are really different cars without mods. Evo 4 have plastic everywhere (outdrives tended to be desintegrated ). Evo 5 introduced 416 reversible suspension and so on. Anyway, I would say that both evo 4 and 5 follow the same patterns... Exotek made from evo 5 a beast for stock racing with their conversions, but there are some home made projects to also upgrade evo 4 (sadly, no exotek conversion for evo4). In the end, they are really competitive and cheaper shaft driven cars, compared to awesomatic, at least...
On the other hand, Evo 6 is a completely redesigned model. I would say it have nothing to do with evo 4 and 5. Bulheads and motor position (trying to avoid steering torque) are probably the less popular mods Tamiya has introduced. Steering torque should no be a real problem with stock motors. All in all, Evo 6 is not a reference chassis althought some people said it was a good car to drive. Fortunatelly, I'm sure that Miker from exotek has done a good job and their new evo 6 conversion just rocks .
I'm probably wrong/imprecise but it is what I can say... Hope it clarify something...
Regards
Akaron
On the other hand, Evo 6 is a completely redesigned model. I would say it have nothing to do with evo 4 and 5. Bulheads and motor position (trying to avoid steering torque) are probably the less popular mods Tamiya has introduced. Steering torque should no be a real problem with stock motors. All in all, Evo 6 is not a reference chassis althought some people said it was a good car to drive. Fortunatelly, I'm sure that Miker from exotek has done a good job and their new evo 6 conversion just rocks .
I'm probably wrong/imprecise but it is what I can say... Hope it clarify something...
Regards
Akaron
I actually just acquired a used Evo 4 and am trying to figure out what to do to make it run efficiently.
My initial impression with the Evo 4 is that it's like a tank. Hard and stiff. A bit heavy too. I am planning to to a complete overhaul on this car and was planning to remove the plastic on the center which serves as a support/battery stay to give it a little more flex. I don't know if it's a good idea though.
#2160
Tech Initiate
Thank you for taking the time to explain the differences. Maybe if I take steps to upgrade the outdrives, arms, spool, the Evo 4 could be as good as the Evo 5/6?
I actually just acquired a used Evo 4 and am trying to figure out what to do to make it run efficiently.
My initial impression with the Evo 4 is that it's like a tank. Hard and stiff. A bit heavy too. I am planning to to a complete overhaul on this car and was planning to remove the plastic on the center which serves as a support/battery stay to give it a little more flex. I don't know if it's a good idea though.
I actually just acquired a used Evo 4 and am trying to figure out what to do to make it run efficiently.
My initial impression with the Evo 4 is that it's like a tank. Hard and stiff. A bit heavy too. I am planning to to a complete overhaul on this car and was planning to remove the plastic on the center which serves as a support/battery stay to give it a little more flex. I don't know if it's a good idea though.
Upps! I can post links but I did not know
http://www.thercracer.com/2014/07/ta...on-part-1.html
http://www.thercracer.com/2015/01/ta...on-part-2.html
I am sure you will like that project .
Regards
Akaron