KREATOR1

iTrader: (8)

lem2,

got ur settings right but cant make my car turn at sharp corners.
it just drift all 4 tyres.

marvi

iTrader: (82)

TA04 swaybars come in 3 colors right - red, yellow and blue? can i buy them as swaybars only or do they only come with mounting hardware? do you guys know the part nos? thanks for any info

Rod M

iTrader: (4)

check out this page,

http://www.burienrcracing.com/tao4hopups.html

lem2

iTrader: (6)

^lessen the droop up front
^if the turns are tight, stand the rear shock more then (TEST)
if litlte inprovement then
^try red springs at front, blue rear.
^then red front yellow rear.
^play with springs before making a drastic change in Kits!! hehehehe. . . .
^make the ride height a little lower than the front.
hope it helps!!

marvi

iTrader: (82)

Rod M: thanks for the link. good tips on the TA04 setups page

psycho

KREATOR1

Post your setup including the tires and inserts you are running as well as the motor you're running and track surface material and description.

I have a much different setup that I use for GT2 and GT3 on asphalt that might also work for you and it will be closer to the stock setup. My TA04's are R's, but it should be close to what you have.

KREATOR1

iTrader: (8)

Ok here it is,

The track im runing is tarmac, its a technical track.
Sorex 36r with sorex C frim insert
using standard tamiya shocks
front yellow spring
rear red spring
All on 60 oil
front more vertical than rear.
Front 1 way with rear alumn diff.
Using Xenon 23turn stock motor
Novak TC2 ESC
Sanwa m8+ vr servo.
ride high is front 5 and rear 6

Well the car just drift in every corner.
May be my ESC got some brake problem?

psycho

My experience with the car is that it likes to be run very stiff. The two things that I see as key things to change are tires and rear ride height. Remember that tires are the coursest adjustment that you have on the car, so you might try 28's or 32's. I don't run Sorex tires so I'm not familiar with their compounds, but the point is to try a softer compound.

Since you didn't mention what your droop settings are, I can only assume that you are running a reduced amount of droop in the rear due to the high ride height. If the track isn't super bumpy, I'd run 5mm all around or even as low as 4mm if you can get away with it without the car bottoming. I typically run 4.5-5.5mm all around on the tracks that I race on.

Are the shocks that you have the nickle colored alum shocks with teflon pistons? If so, I suggest running the 2 hole piston and 50 weight Trinity oil all around with white springs up front and blue in the rear. If you need more steering, lay the shocks down. If you have too much grip, stand them up. You should have tons of steering with the one-way.

I suggest running 3mm of droop up front and 5mm in the rear measured as follows: Put the car together with motor, electrics, battery and tires, then measure the ride height. Now, use a hobby knife and raise the front of the car from the very center of the bumper and measure the point that the first tire lifts from your workbench. For example, say you're running 5mm ride height and the tire lifts at 7mm. Subtract the two (7-5=2) and you have the droop. So, in this case, you're running 2mm of droop. Once you get one side done, I suggest taking off both front wheels and put the car on something of consistant thickness like a roll of electrical tape if you don't have a droop guage set. Measure the distance between the lowest point on the corner that you measured to have 2mm droop and adjust the droop screw on the opposite corner so that both front sides have the same amount of droop. Now repeat this on the rear. Again, I suggest 3mm up front and 5mm in the rear. If yo run less droop than this, the swaybars (which don't do much anyways on this car,) won't have any effect at all.

Another thing that I have found with the car is that it likes to run a lot of camber if you leave the rollcenter adjustment at the position indicated in the instruction. Depending on the track, I'll run as much as 4 degrees of camber up front and 2.5 ro 3 degrees in back. I prefer to run minimal toe-in in the rear to loosen it up a bit and get more steering if I need it, but that's a matter of preference. I race GT3 a lot with a silver can motor and I can't afford any amount of additional drag, so I keep my toe setting minimal.

Anyways, that should give you some things to think about and try out. Good luck!

KREATOR1

iTrader: (8)

Is that the typical problem with 04's? may be i got the settings wrong.Ill try some of your settings psycho.

Anyway thanks

psycho

I don't know if I would go as far as to say they are problems. The car definitely lacks mechanical grip compared to other chassis like the XXX-S, for example, but it's a very good car.

This is a base setup that I would start with for asphalt:

Front:
Tamiya Type B tire/Yokomo medium insert OR
Pit Shimizu 27/Yokomo med insert
5mm ride height
3mm droop
Tamiya 2 hole teflon piston
50 weight Trinity shock oil
White spring
Shocks stood all the way up
Kit caster blocks (I think they are 2 deg)
1 degree toe-out
2 degrees negative camber
Upper links in positions described in the instructions
One way (This setup should be good with a diff as well)
No swaybar

Rear:
Tamiya Type B tire/Yokomo medium insert OR
Pit Shimizu 27/Yokomo med insert
5mm ride height
5mm droop
Tamiya 2 hole teflon piston
40 weight Trinity shock oil
Blue spring
Shocks stood all the way up
Kit uprights (I think they are 2 deg toe-in)
2 degrees negative camber
Upper links in positions described in the instructions
Diff tighted to the point that it doesn't slip
No swaybar

This should be pretty neutral to start with and work on a variety of surfaces. If you push, try laying down the front shocks. If the rear is a bit unstable, try laying down the shocks. If you feel the body roll is too much or the transition isn't quick enough, add the front swaybar. Start with yellow and if you don't lose much steering, you can try the blue bar. If it feels twitchy, try harder tires or inserts that have less of an airgap like HPI green or Echo red. If you use the SS arms, I think you'll probably want to run a front diff and possibly go with 4 degree caster blocks because it is quite twitchy with the short wheelbase. Make sure and use steering dualrate to tame down the steering if you feel like you have too much steering. I hope that helps.

marvi

iTrader: (82)

do you guys know what pinions (smallest and biggest) will fit the 83T metric 48p tamiya spur gear? thanks for any info

lem2

iTrader: (6)

18-27 0.6 module Pinions, you mayhave to modify the holes where you screw in the motor, youhave to make them longer o ba able to have a wider range of pinions to use with the
83tooth 0.6 Module Spur

psycho

That's definitely one of my biggest complaints about the car. I have to switch spurs all the time to get the right gearing because I run up against the limit of sliding the motor in. If you enlarge the slots, the car will be TCS illegal and tech will call you on it. They know what gear combination fits without enlarging the slots. A buddy of mine tried to slip past tech and got called on it.

Entropy

Hi everyone

I'll be getting a TA04R soon. I would like to know how this car performs vs the other pro level cars like TC3, Yok SD, Pro4 etc...?

Are there any flaws in handling I should look out for?

Which parts should I look out for in terms of breakage?

Are there any must have hop ups for this car?

The reason why I'm getting his kit is because I can join all the races (open and tamiya series) in my own country. I had half a mind to get a Yok CGM or Hpi Pro4 before but Tamiya's support is overwhelming in almost all LHS where I live.

Please help me get out of this dilemma. Thanks

marvi

iTrader: (82)

lem2: thanks i still have some tamiya 48p pinions left over from my M01, TA03, and FF01 days good thing i only have to buy a couple more sets