Steevo

shadow,
I have the diffs set up the way that I explained and I am running a very trick 10x4 Trinity Team Kinwald motor with no slipping. Just check that the grub screw on the top pulleys is tight as well. Funny you should mention it but I was just thinking of changing the arms to the bulkhead position myself. I just need to get some longer hex head screws so that they will go through some captured ball heads and spacers. If I do it I will post some pics. I have also replaced most of the standard screws for hex heads and they look cool.

Steevo

KINGZJ

iTrader: (4)

Everytime I used a mod in my car I needed to put the front oneway and shaft oneways in the car to get it to turn. Then you only have to deal with one diff. The car handles very well with a mod and oneways.

ShadowAu

iTrader: (7)

Maybe I am hearing wheel spin or maybe its just been so long since I've had a belt drive car...

You'll also need some 3mm spacers to put under the ball ends on the gear box bulkheads... that mimics the 414M2 standard setting... also try and get some 2mm and 1mm spacers and then you have the same adjustability

I am also wondering when someone will try and make optional arm mounts for the 04R... it has very similar mounting style to a TC3, just not as easy to change.... but anti-squat and rear toe could be adjusted as well as kick-up on the front... and be a lot simpler than the way I beleive the 414M2s are done with spacers actully under the whole bulkhead

I haven't needed the oneway yet... My car has brillant turn-in and steering under power and I am using either Trinity 10x3 or Tamiya 11x1 (which is a much better motor than people give credit)... I will probably end up with the one-way in the future because it does make a car just that little bit faster once used to it... but until I need it I not going to bother

psycho

Guys, I had a wierd one happen to me today and ShadowAu, this may be what you're experiencing as well. I noticed that a belt was skipping when I accelerated hard off the line, like a heads up start. I figured that one of the belts was stretched, so I pulled the car off to see what was going on. Upon examination, it looked like the rear belt was way loose! I could easily push it in almost an inch and if I held the spurgear and turned both rear wheels, it skipped easily. As I looked at it further, I discovered that it was actually the diff pulley that was the problem. For some reason, it was not centered so the belt was tight for half the rotation of the diff and really loose the other half. I was also experiencing some strange handling, so I think this was the cause. I tore the diff apart and found out that the sealed bearing that goes in the middle of the diff pulley had worked its way out of the center of the pulley and into one of the diff outdrives. As it turns out, I built the diff with only one of the bearings and you're supposed to install two. The picture on page 4 of the TA04R instruction does clearly show two bearings, but the exploded view is shown, I saw that you only install one bearing. Anyways, it was a doh! for me. It might be worth checking yours Shadow, in case you made the same mistake that I did.

Fit

I've seen a couple of TA04's with the camber
link on the gearbox/bulkhead on the rear.
I'm curious, what are the advantages of soing so?
Pros and cons?

Thanks

Steevo

The advantage would be better adjustability of the roll centre of the car. I would Imagine that you would have to do this for the front as well as the rear.
By using different thicknesses of spacers under the captured balls you can effectively adjust the roll centre for various track conditions.

Steevo

chrisman

iTrader: (3)

Steevo,

Do you have pics of your 2002 NSX.Send them to me [email protected].

KINGZJ

iTrader: (4)

Anybody have any pics of mounting the camber link to the gearcase?

ShadowAu

iTrader: (7)

well I checked the diffs and everything is cool there... just have to see how it goes in My first major race meeting with it next week... looking forward to it but will be the last time I run mod for quite a while

the camber link mod should not be hard... just have to remove the front screws that hold the actual diff cover on and replace them with longer screws and ballends... from the pics I've seen of the 414M2s its the same spot...

I got some close up pics of the way the spacers are used on the lower arm mounts on the 414M2 as well... don't understand why Tamiya didn't just go the same way as Associated and actually make whole mounts with different settings... in My opinion it would be so much easier

KINGZJ

iTrader: (4)

they do for the 414m2.

Mike F

so can you use the 414MII gear case on the 04R

is it possible to install everything on the 414MII on a TA-04R tub chassis?

ShadowAu

iTrader: (7)

From the pics I've seen the M2 uses spacers placed under the arm mounts which allows adjustment of the anti-squat and CG but not rear toe

KINGZJ

iTrader: (4)

you can get different toe in block I just saw them in a magizine somewhere

ShadowAu

iTrader: (7)

not easily... apprently there are some extra bits missing or in the way or something... I've never been able to get a straight answer to this Myself... you might be able to modify the chassis to do it but be a lot of work I think

does anyone have the part numbers for the 414M2 bulkheads?

stratuskyo

hey thanks everyone for reply me........i think i have decided to buy the 04r with the raybrig NSX 2002 cover as a new year car......thanks..................