[{(Settings for TA0-4)}]
#211
Tech Adept
Stabilizer on TA04 TRF
I notice that both the front and the rear sway bars don't seem to do much on the TA04 TRF. Without the shocks connected, when you lift up one arm, the opposite arm doesn't lift up at all.
I don't see any binding on the suspension arms. All arms move smoothly and drop on it own weight. Am I missing something?
Thanks.
I don't see any binding on the suspension arms. All arms move smoothly and drop on it own weight. Am I missing something?
Thanks.
#212
There's a much improved stabalizer set available for the TA04, unfortunately, I don't have the part number. The newer setup provides a more direct link with the suspension.
#213
The part# would be much appreciated! Is this the set for the TB02?
#214
Oh man, I guess the part number would be somewhere on tamiya japan's english site under one of the month's new releases. I used it for my world's TA04 and gave the stabilizer a more direct feel with the arm...<alt-tab to search>....(some funky elevator musak)....okay back, here it is:
Item 53676 TA04 Racing Stabilizer Set (Rear)
Item 53676 TA04 Racing Stabilizer Set (Rear)
#215
Tech Adept
Thanks for the reply. If you ever wonder how they look like,
this is what the package look like...
My next question is, will it be better off to change the sway bar mounted on the upper desk to the more conventional way like the regular TA04?
this is what the package look like...
My next question is, will it be better off to change the sway bar mounted on the upper desk to the more conventional way like the regular TA04?
#216
The WCR style upper deck stabalizer mount is good for the TA04, coupled with the set that you pictured, you'd be good to go in the stabalizer department.
#217
Tech Adept
The Uhuru of Set-ups
Okay, I need help
I run:
TA04, Monster Horsepower Pro and P2k2pro
The other fellas at the track seem to be shy in sharing their gear setups, coz they just be kicking my @sk with the same chassis/motor.
The track is semi-technical, a little of both worlds meaning a few long bends, 2 straight, and tight in-field.
Question 1 - What spur/pinion do I need to go super fast
Question 2 - What spur/pinion do I need to have Rhino-like torque
Much appreciated, hurry, the car is pointing at the wall
Sharp, thanks
I run:
TA04, Monster Horsepower Pro and P2k2pro
The other fellas at the track seem to be shy in sharing their gear setups, coz they just be kicking my @sk with the same chassis/motor.
The track is semi-technical, a little of both worlds meaning a few long bends, 2 straight, and tight in-field.
Question 1 - What spur/pinion do I need to go super fast
Question 2 - What spur/pinion do I need to have Rhino-like torque
Much appreciated, hurry, the car is pointing at the wall
Sharp, thanks
#218
Re: The Uhuru of Set-ups
Originally posted by Punkynutt
Okay, I need help
I run:
TA04, Monster Horsepower Pro and P2k2pro
The other fellas at the track seem to be shy in sharing their gear setups, coz they just be kicking my @sk with the same chassis/motor.
The track is semi-technical, a little of both worlds meaning a few long bends, 2 straight, and tight in-field.
Question 1 - What spur/pinion do I need to go super fast
Question 2 - What spur/pinion do I need to have Rhino-like torque
Much appreciated, hurry, the car is pointing at the wall
Sharp, thanks
Okay, I need help
I run:
TA04, Monster Horsepower Pro and P2k2pro
The other fellas at the track seem to be shy in sharing their gear setups, coz they just be kicking my @sk with the same chassis/motor.
The track is semi-technical, a little of both worlds meaning a few long bends, 2 straight, and tight in-field.
Question 1 - What spur/pinion do I need to go super fast
Question 2 - What spur/pinion do I need to have Rhino-like torque
Much appreciated, hurry, the car is pointing at the wall
Sharp, thanks
Are you running a ball diff setup or double 1-way?
Coop
Last edited by gcooper; 03-30-2004 at 06:33 AM.
#220
Tech Apprentice
Punkynutt : try this for the monster stock. 120/35
Kreator1 : try 112/45
Kreator1 : try 112/45
#221
Tech Adept
Which 23T are you using right now ??
Originally posted by KREATOR1
i ran My 04 pro 112 and 43 pinion. So its 5.5 ratio. 23t stock motor.
But still loose 2 laps with the yoks.
Any sugguestion?
i ran My 04 pro 112 and 43 pinion. So its 5.5 ratio. 23t stock motor.
But still loose 2 laps with the yoks.
Any sugguestion?
#223
Punkynutt
I'd stick with the Monster motor. It is a high rpm motor, so you want to gear it much higher than the P2K2. bosschick's suggestion should get you in the ballpark. That's 7.31:1 which is a good place to start. You should, however, always gear for the track. An easy way to do that is to watch where the speed tops out on the longest straightaway. If you top at midway down the straight, you should increase the pinion size until you top out just as you're letting off the throttle at the end of the straight. If it feels like you have more speed in it, go down a tooth and test again. Once you get it set, you won't vary it by much as the track layout changes. You may need to change the gearing slightly depending on what you need for the rest of the track, though. Also, it's a good idea to experiment with different spurgear sizes since you can get a finer gearing adjustment by switching both pinion and spur than you can by only changing the pinion. For example, the 120/35 gets you to 7.31:1 where a 112/33 gets you to 7.23:1 compared to 7.11:1 if you go up one tooth with the 120 spur. You can calculate the gear ratio with this formula:
<spurgear teeth> / <pinion gear teeth> X <internal transmission ratio> = final gear ratio. On this car, the internal ratio is 2.133. I hope that helps.
I'd stick with the Monster motor. It is a high rpm motor, so you want to gear it much higher than the P2K2. bosschick's suggestion should get you in the ballpark. That's 7.31:1 which is a good place to start. You should, however, always gear for the track. An easy way to do that is to watch where the speed tops out on the longest straightaway. If you top at midway down the straight, you should increase the pinion size until you top out just as you're letting off the throttle at the end of the straight. If it feels like you have more speed in it, go down a tooth and test again. Once you get it set, you won't vary it by much as the track layout changes. You may need to change the gearing slightly depending on what you need for the rest of the track, though. Also, it's a good idea to experiment with different spurgear sizes since you can get a finer gearing adjustment by switching both pinion and spur than you can by only changing the pinion. For example, the 120/35 gets you to 7.31:1 where a 112/33 gets you to 7.23:1 compared to 7.11:1 if you go up one tooth with the 120 spur. You can calculate the gear ratio with this formula:
<spurgear teeth> / <pinion gear teeth> X <internal transmission ratio> = final gear ratio. On this car, the internal ratio is 2.133. I hope that helps.
#224
Tech Adept
Originally posted by psycho
Punkynutt
I'd stick with the Monster motor. It is a high rpm motor, so you want to gear it much higher than the P2K2. bosschick's suggestion should get you in the ballpark. That's 7.31:1 which is a good place to start. You should, however, always gear for the track. An easy way to do that is to watch where the speed tops out on the longest straightaway. If you top at midway down the straight, you should increase the pinion size until you top out just as you're letting off the throttle at the end of the straight. If it feels like you have more speed in it, go down a tooth and test again. Once you get it set, you won't vary it by much as the track layout changes. You may need to change the gearing slightly depending on what you need for the rest of the track, though. Also, it's a good idea to experiment with different spurgear sizes since you can get a finer gearing adjustment by switching both pinion and spur than you can by only changing the pinion. For example, the 120/35 gets you to 7.31:1 where a 112/33 gets you to 7.23:1 compared to 7.11:1 if you go up one tooth with the 120 spur. You can calculate the gear ratio with this formula:
<spurgear teeth> / <pinion gear teeth> X <internal transmission ratio> = final gear ratio. On this car, the internal ratio is 2.133. I hope that helps.
Punkynutt
I'd stick with the Monster motor. It is a high rpm motor, so you want to gear it much higher than the P2K2. bosschick's suggestion should get you in the ballpark. That's 7.31:1 which is a good place to start. You should, however, always gear for the track. An easy way to do that is to watch where the speed tops out on the longest straightaway. If you top at midway down the straight, you should increase the pinion size until you top out just as you're letting off the throttle at the end of the straight. If it feels like you have more speed in it, go down a tooth and test again. Once you get it set, you won't vary it by much as the track layout changes. You may need to change the gearing slightly depending on what you need for the rest of the track, though. Also, it's a good idea to experiment with different spurgear sizes since you can get a finer gearing adjustment by switching both pinion and spur than you can by only changing the pinion. For example, the 120/35 gets you to 7.31:1 where a 112/33 gets you to 7.23:1 compared to 7.11:1 if you go up one tooth with the 120 spur. You can calculate the gear ratio with this formula:
<spurgear teeth> / <pinion gear teeth> X <internal transmission ratio> = final gear ratio. On this car, the internal ratio is 2.133. I hope that helps.
This will help tremendously...........I'll get a few more pinion sizes
Thanks
#225
Hi guys
I'm wondering whats the lightest you've ever got your TA04
Also please list the parts that you used to achieve it, I use a TRF spec TA04 with a lightweight tub chassis myself.
thanks
I'm wondering whats the lightest you've ever got your TA04
Also please list the parts that you used to achieve it, I use a TRF spec TA04 with a lightweight tub chassis myself.
thanks