Motor smell?
#1
Motor smell?
After about 10 - 15 minutes of using my rc car I start to smell something like burning rubber. Is this just the brushes fading away? I think it is normal but I really need a second oppion.
#2
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by Faint
After about 10 - 15 minutes of using my rc car I start to smell something like burning rubber. Is this just the brushes fading away? I think it is normal but I really need a second oppion.
#3
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
If you are running 10-15 minutes STRAIGHT, without letting things cool off, you are killing the motor...
Borrow a temp gun from a nitro racer and check the temp of the motor. you normally want to keep it at or below 170 degrees. The worst I've ever seen was a stock sedan motor that came off the track at 230 degrees after a 5 minute race -- the motor was never the same (magnets lose strength from heat, etc.)...
Borrow a temp gun from a nitro racer and check the temp of the motor. you normally want to keep it at or below 170 degrees. The worst I've ever seen was a stock sedan motor that came off the track at 230 degrees after a 5 minute race -- the motor was never the same (magnets lose strength from heat, etc.)...
#4
Originally Posted by tfrahm
If you are running 10-15 minutes STRAIGHT, without letting things cool off, you are killing the motor...
Borrow a temp gun from a nitro racer and check the temp of the motor. you normally want to keep it at or below 170 degrees. The worst I've ever seen was a stock sedan motor that came off the track at 230 degrees after a 5 minute race -- the motor was never the same (magnets lose strength from heat, etc.)...
Borrow a temp gun from a nitro racer and check the temp of the motor. you normally want to keep it at or below 170 degrees. The worst I've ever seen was a stock sedan motor that came off the track at 230 degrees after a 5 minute race -- the motor was never the same (magnets lose strength from heat, etc.)...
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by Faint
What if I got a motor cooler and and cooled my motor before running it?
#6
Thanks for all your help so far but one more question. Couldn't you switch out motors in between runs? I understand the ESC could get hot but regardless I just want to know.
Edit - Also would a "rebuild" fix the damages from running the motor too long?
Edit - Also would a "rebuild" fix the damages from running the motor too long?
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
When/If a motor had been overheated, the impact varies....
Some Magnets are much more tolerant than others (Reedy MVP's always seem to get HOT, but once they cool down, the magnets are as good as ever)...
The most common "damage" is that the brushes get hot and turn a purplish color -- when that happens, they are ruined, as the lubricant in the brush has been cooked out and the copper and silver components have been "annealed" (the metal actually changes it's characteristics)... Over heated brushes MUST be replaced.
Similarly, the comm will turn colors , ranging from copper to brass to red to purple. As with the brushes, this can harden the copper. The heat cycles can also make the comm out of round, as the copper surface and the phenolic center core will expand/contract differently from the heat. Carefully skimming of the comm on a comm lathe can "mostly" revive an overheated comm (the copper may be permanently hardened/changed by the heat). Skimming the comm will be "good enough" for most casual use -- hard core racers would find the results unsatisfactory, however...
Some Magnets are much more tolerant than others (Reedy MVP's always seem to get HOT, but once they cool down, the magnets are as good as ever)...
The most common "damage" is that the brushes get hot and turn a purplish color -- when that happens, they are ruined, as the lubricant in the brush has been cooked out and the copper and silver components have been "annealed" (the metal actually changes it's characteristics)... Over heated brushes MUST be replaced.
Similarly, the comm will turn colors , ranging from copper to brass to red to purple. As with the brushes, this can harden the copper. The heat cycles can also make the comm out of round, as the copper surface and the phenolic center core will expand/contract differently from the heat. Carefully skimming of the comm on a comm lathe can "mostly" revive an overheated comm (the copper may be permanently hardened/changed by the heat). Skimming the comm will be "good enough" for most casual use -- hard core racers would find the results unsatisfactory, however...
#9
Originally Posted by hurley081182
you smell the rubber from your tires you are going so fast...lol