mac112

My question is do I need to cut one of the ball cups to get the steering link to be exactly the length stated in the manual 43.7. I screwed both ball cups in to the max and just barely get 43.7 total length. Or am I doing something wrong?

mac112

Hi, Which Xray bumper would I need for my Cero Sport? Part number? just bought a Cero Sport and in the build process now. The stock bumper is hard and I do not like it.

chjosi

iTrader: (24)

fat500 What surface?

Robio

iTrader: (5)

Have a look at my post a couple back. You don’t need X-ray unless you’d prefer to spend 20bucks rather than 4$ for a piece of foam.

knightrider

iTrader: (3)

What is everyone running for shims under the arms for usgt on black carpet. Car was wayyyyy too aggressive with 0 and a bwoah body im switching to a less aggressive one but the car was too aggressive with steering and the back end was following just as aggressively. Too into the carpet

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

At least 1mm all the way around. For VTA and the new Gravity tires (V2) I ended up with 2mm front and none in the rear. That was because the car was too aggressive on turn in. It was really good after that.

Isaac

iTrader: (5)

I'm doing 2.5 mm all the way around. Was thinking about going to 3.

Kevin Marcy

Now that we have a "64" version and a "55" version, is there any general agreement on which layout is better for carpet? (Or better yet, some science to explain it?)

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

You will find that discussion some ways back about which is preferred on the Cero Ultra which has the option of either.

Pooch692000

Has anyone ran the v2 with cf chassis on high bite carpet? I have two v1 ace kits with the alum chassis built and two v2 but with cf chassis. I run usgt and 21.5 in carpet in winter and asphalt in summer. Was hoping for a release of an alum chassis for the v2 and would sell the two ace and swap chassis’ for each surface. Any idea when alum chassis is coming for v2 cero or can i run cf on both carpet and asphalt. Am a b main driver at best so….

old_dude

iTrader: (1)

I have done both. Saturday I ran the V2 as a VTA and last night the V1 alloy with the same setup to start including electronics. At his point I don't see a significant difference other than the V2 graphite need a lot of ballast to hit weight. By the end of the night I had run a much faster T15 with the V1 alloy. That might speak well for that config.
Best bet is wait for the V2 Ace.

Robio

iTrader: (5)

Learning some stuff as I'm going through the V2 build. So far so good with a couple exceptions.. The Upper Arms that some are having trouble with got me as well. Ran the Turnbuckle into the Ball Cup too far and exploded one. The others I ran in just far enough to distort them and cause them to bind on the Ballstud. In the trash they go. Greg had great advice, run the Turnbuckle into the Arm to about 1mm below the end of the Arm. Then thread on the Ballcup to correct length...
Also, seems to me, pushing the Upper Arms onto the Bulkhead Ballstuds is sketchy. Really don't like how much force I'm having to use. My ballstud pliers wont quite work for that. Any insights?
Rob...

shadowracer24

iTrader: (3)

What I do is place a quarter on top of the arm centered over the ball cup then press down with the chassis sitting flat on my work bench. That way the pressure is on the ball cup itself and not on the arm chancing breaking the arm. Just easy steady pressure and it pops right on nice and free.

Robio

iTrader: (5)

I like it. Thanks for the tip!

TheBeave

iTrader: (6)

Has anyone found an alternative sway bar for this car? I have the largest 3r sway bar in the rear of my car but might want a larger one for the nose, I looked at all the Xray bars in the hobby shop yesterday and none of them seemed to line up. I'm currently using the 3R xi-sport 3 dot sway bar in the rear, was hoping I could find the equivalent 4 dot for the front. I'm assuming the 3 dot is a 1.3mm. From my testing and findings, these cars definitely want the stiffer sway bars on black carpet. I have been fighting traction rolling for weeks, once I went to the stiffer sway bar in the rear it calmed the car down tremendously, just a tad bit tippy initially and wanted to test a stiffer sway bar up front. I've got some more coming in from RaceVTA.com but given that they're for an older car I hope they work and 3R is still making them. I will say we do have a very punishing layout at Apex right now and my car has felt as good as it ever has, it just needs a tiny bit more stability and I'll be able to push the car for all she's got.


PS: EA is selling Protoform VTA tires at wholesale price, get them while there's any left. $15 a pair.
Protoform VTA Pre-Mounted Tires — Team EAM, Inc (teameamotorsports.com)