Hara Edition v2 Revolution Motors
04-15-2006, 11:46 AM
#16
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
John-the two problems were not heat related but caused by the comm tabs or larger segment of the comm contacting the angled brush hood tips (and brushes). Enough debris was created to pepper the armature windings with damage as well as damaging the brush hood tips. I'll aggree that if you never bump the side of the car on a high speed layout that this damage may not occur, but thats what we race on.
If I understood correctly, the comm moved up and down so much that it actually reached and hit the copper tubed brush hoods?
If this is the case, I find it very strange! The o-rings that secure the endbell bearing would defenetly not allow so much movement if any.
This is the first time I hear of this problem.
Could it be that while rebuilding them the endbell bearing was not proberly positioned?
I can't think of any other reason.
One of the things that I like in V2 motors is that there is no need to aling the brush hoods, as to my experience they do not move.
There is one thing I can think off. While soldering the wires on the motor, if in order to check whether the wires were properly secured they shaked the soldered wires left-right while the whole endbell was hot (and the epoxy that holds the copper brush tubes on the aluminum endbell was soft) then the tube might have turned just a bit reducing the distance from the comm.
04-15-2006, 12:51 PM
#17
Tech Adept
Sorry for the OT, but where can I get screws/washers like the ones in the pic? TIA
04-15-2006, 01:19 PM
#18
I have had this happen; the o-ring just jumped on the arm and made the arm move around in the can.
Just re-shim the motor with normal motor shims if you're affraid of this to happen..
Just re-shim the motor with normal motor shims if you're affraid of this to happen..
04-15-2006, 03:23 PM
#19
[QUOTE=John Doucakis]If I understood correctly, the comm moved up and down so much that it actually reached and hit the copper tubed brush hoods?
No that's not it. The armature moves end to end (axially) with a bump on the endbell side of the car. The arm moves left in your diagram and chews up the tips of the tubes. I like the snap ring much better, but if it was in a snap ring width groove and had the snap ring from the factory instead of an O-ring size groove with an 0 ring, it would be nice. This type of O-ring bearing retention is used on my Losi one-ways to hold the outdrives in. A real pain in the rear. Don't like it there either. And it's not because I'm a traditional old fart. I Just like my RC stuff to work on a real RC track with normal racers.
Nice Diagrams. now put in the raised untrued slotted section of the comm and the comm tabs (the buzz saws) and the picture of the damage potential will be complete.
No that's not it. The armature moves end to end (axially) with a bump on the endbell side of the car. The arm moves left in your diagram and chews up the tips of the tubes. I like the snap ring much better, but if it was in a snap ring width groove and had the snap ring from the factory instead of an O-ring size groove with an 0 ring, it would be nice. This type of O-ring bearing retention is used on my Losi one-ways to hold the outdrives in. A real pain in the rear. Don't like it there either. And it's not because I'm a traditional old fart. I Just like my RC stuff to work on a real RC track with normal racers.
Nice Diagrams. now put in the raised untrued slotted section of the comm and the comm tabs (the buzz saws) and the picture of the damage potential will be complete.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-15-2006 at 04:17 PM.
04-15-2006, 03:29 PM
#20
Originally Posted by jarkkom
I have had this happen; the o-ring just jumped on the arm and made the arm move around in the can.
Just re-shim the motor with normal motor shims if you're affraid of this to happen..
Just re-shim the motor with normal motor shims if you're affraid of this to happen..
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-15-2006 at 04:19 PM.
04-15-2006, 05:12 PM
#21
Ok, I get it now.
This is what you are talking about.
This has occured to some racers I know, but they were not using complete ORION/PEAK motors. They were using armatures from other companies and when centering the armature in the can it was getting too close to the brush hoods.
In this case I can imagine that it is possible to have the armature damaging the brush hoods.
This is what you are talking about.
This has occured to some racers I know, but they were not using complete ORION/PEAK motors. They were using armatures from other companies and when centering the armature in the can it was getting too close to the brush hoods.
In this case I can imagine that it is possible to have the armature damaging the brush hoods.
Last edited by John Doucakis; 04-16-2006 at 11:51 PM.
04-15-2006, 07:26 PM
#22
Both were Stock Orion Arms almost brand new. Nice Diagram again. There is just not enough clearance with all the spongy rubber parts!!! They should get rid of the rubber. The new Trinity motors have all this rubber but they have more clearance from radial brushes and hoods. No excuses need be made, the V2 is just a weak design for the average Joe. I would personally remove all the rubber from the trinity motors too except I am running the old Trinity Cobalts and Reedy Kryptons or Worlds. Guess why.
John
John
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