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Old 07-26-2011, 07:46 AM
  #12871  
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Originally Posted by olly986
Hi Michal

I was not talking about your car but Mos-Leung, he has the picture (small) on his post under yours.

regards,
Noted. But it is balacnced with 50C - 310g LIPO. (not balance if LIPO is 30C - 290g)
FYI, i use small servo, move in ESC & motor...
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Last edited by mos-leung; 07-26-2011 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:51 PM
  #12872  
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No worries!

I had the same, but never managed to get a good balance with TC5 without putting the cell out a bit, then it was fine, but at the time I also had a Novak GTB, I have never tried with the RSpro that went straight into the TC6.

Here is a pic of mine with homemade carbon holders.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Which wont be mine for long as I have 3 buyers interested in it.

Regards,
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Old 07-28-2011, 09:37 PM
  #12873  
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Default Handling Speed

What's the best way to set up a car to handle high speed? I was thinking stiffer shocks or higher grade shock oil or both, but I could be wrong.
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Old 07-29-2011, 02:25 AM
  #12874  
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Your question means nothing!

These cars are made to reach high speed, then it all depends where you are racing, tight track, long sweeping bends, straight line!!

Too hard oil/spring won't help turning, except if you race on carpet where in general you use a stiffer setup, but there is stiff and stiff...

In general, shock oils used are between 300-550 in TC5 and springs green rear/silver front are very common (soft set up) but the kit comes with red and copper (stiffer)
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Old 07-29-2011, 07:48 AM
  #12875  
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Silver and Green is the way to go. I also like Blue and Silver.
KEEP TC5 ALIVE.
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:52 AM
  #12876  
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on tarmac I run with green/silver silver/silver silver/gold gold/gold depending on track, oil 350/400 rear 400/450 front, 2 piston or losi 56/57.

I never went harder than this, and car goes very fast...all around a track.
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:59 PM
  #12877  
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i dont think you can really beat blue/silver for most types of outdoor tracks unless its some perfectly flat, prepared ashphalt.

im still new, but running rick howart's super stock setup + some rear caster, slightly more upright front shocks, blue spring and 50 wt oil in front, silver spring 40wt rear.

17.5 no boost, 3.6fdr and 16º motor timing, car fliiiiies. responsive but stable. just wish my ntc3 was as pleasurable to drive..
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Old 08-06-2011, 01:03 PM
  #12878  
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just wondering if there is any trick to refilling/setting rebound on our shocks. i watched a video on building shumacher shocks and how they get rebound but when i tried, it only sort of works. i still get half travel rebound.
the manual is very limited in the information provided.
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Old 08-06-2011, 01:14 PM
  #12879  
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Originally Posted by valk
just wondering if there is any trick to refilling/setting rebound on our shocks. i watched a video on building shumacher shocks and how they get rebound but when i tried, it only sort of works. i still get half travel rebound.
the manual is very limited in the information provided.
It is hard to build them without rebound. I never made it... For zero rebound make a small hole with a hot needle (or drill) in the caps.
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:00 PM
  #12880  
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ok. next question then. i got my car used, and the previous owner didnt use the large foam spacers. so i dont have any. just the small ones. i have some losi body mount foamies i can cut down, are they supposed to fit inside the diaphram or is the diaphram supposed to travel a bit? again, the manual is limited. shows the whole assembly going together but doesnt specify.

i might try the hole in the cap, though id like a little bit of rebound. our track isnt that smooth. was trying to get 10%.

my nitro car is another story. NO IDEA how you are supposed to set up the ntc3 shocks. says to fill the shock, fill the cap and assemble without losing oil. how the phuc? then how can you possibly know if they are all the same?
another one of my ntc3's came with integy shocks... which so far, are craaaaap. the diaphram doesnt even fit in the shock cap properly. not sure how that is supposed to work... good times..
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:24 PM
  #12881  
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In general we did not use the inside foam (mine came in 4 different thickness lol)
so shaft down, fill the shock and let it rest after moving shaft up and down a couple of time to remove air bubbles, add a little oil if needed and put the diaphrams on top of oil, it doesn't matter if a little oil come off, make sure no air is trap between diaphram and oil, then screw the top gently as to not move the diaphram, wipe excess oil, be careful to mark front and back if you use different oils.

Then by pairs (same oil) hold them together and push both shaft in, release and see if speed and distance is same. If one comes out too fast, you have either air or too much oil, or the slower one does not have enough oil.

The trick is to get the same from each pair.
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Old 08-06-2011, 04:10 PM
  #12882  
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got them to be pretty close to identical for the pair.. hard to tell though. seems the more or less you tighten the cap makes a difference too. will test tonight at the track. though i just upgraded radios too so im suer any difference made in refilling them wont be noticable with a new radio to get used to ha.
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:41 AM
  #12883  
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If the diaphram doesn't fit it is maybe swollen because it was cleande with the wrong chemicals. You have to get new ones then...
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Old 08-07-2011, 10:33 AM
  #12884  
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my tc5 shocks seem to be ok though they leak over time. ill get a couple rebuild kits and redo them from scratch for next season.
car handles nice with the traction down on take off slicks so leaving it alone now.
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Old 08-11-2011, 09:01 AM
  #12885  
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Does anyone know how much weight (if any) on average is needed to balance the battery side on the TC5X chassis?
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