Team Associated TC5
#8072
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
If im not mistaken, you are seeing the Bomber belt for the Yokomo BD.
RC mart is the only place I have found them.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mr4...th=595_746_908
RC mart is the only place I have found them.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-mr4...th=595_746_908
#8073
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
1 way
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear
front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners
1mm spacer on front and rear hexes(sorry I forgot this before)
I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
*****EDIT:Now using 2* caster block, with 3b/2b front hing pin placement for 3* of caster. sliver front spring instead of the green. Camber link middle out on front tower. 2* camber front.
Rear camber link outside up on tower, outside on hub. Black rear bar, with some extra tension. Rear shock second hole in.
Turns in a bit harder now, less chance of traction rolling. Only dope 1/2 of front with well broken in tires. More with newer tires.
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear
front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners
1mm spacer on front and rear hexes(sorry I forgot this before)
I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
*****EDIT:Now using 2* caster block, with 3b/2b front hing pin placement for 3* of caster. sliver front spring instead of the green. Camber link middle out on front tower. 2* camber front.
Rear camber link outside up on tower, outside on hub. Black rear bar, with some extra tension. Rear shock second hole in.
Turns in a bit harder now, less chance of traction rolling. Only dope 1/2 of front with well broken in tires. More with newer tires.
Last edited by robk; 01-04-2009 at 10:45 PM.
#8075
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
I am always hearing of bearings failing or wearing out and not preforming properly. My question is what is best way to check and see if your bearings have indeed failed? when the wheel starts wobbling? when you encounter binding of some sort? In these instances, will the bearing appear to be damaged or mishapen at all? Just trying to figure out what to look for after a hit on the boards or something..
#8078
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
There are several ways to check if a bearing is bad, but Andrew's suggestion is a good quick way to find a problem bearing, and if they feel bad, remove the bearings for a closer inspection.
#8080
Tech Master
Thanks Rob,
I think my problem is I'm trying to use set-ups and solutions from my TC3 days and they just don't work on the new generation cars.I notice you're running very lite oil, soft springs and the front shocks laid down.I would think this would cause the front of the car to wallow. I also see that you're using a sway bar on the front. I always used sway bars to stiffen the side to side motion.
I think my problem is I'm trying to use set-ups and solutions from my TC3 days and they just don't work on the new generation cars.I notice you're running very lite oil, soft springs and the front shocks laid down.I would think this would cause the front of the car to wallow. I also see that you're using a sway bar on the front. I always used sway bars to stiffen the side to side motion.
1 way
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear
front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners
I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear
front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners
I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
#8081
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
1 way
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear
front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners
I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
Front diff ultra low rear ultra high
green springs on all corners
#57 pistons or try #3, but #57 losi preferred
30wt front 25 wt rear
front 3a/3a hingepin rear 1b/2b
spacers 1.5* ff/fr, 1* rf/ 1* + 1.5* rr (2.5 total toe with 1* hub)
front camberlink middle in, 2mm spacer/silver ballstud on caster block
rear camber link up/in, inside on hub, 2mm spacer
1* camber front, 1.5 rear
ride ht 5mm front, 5.5 rear
black swaybar- front
shock front-all the way in on tower, outside on arm
rear all the way out on tower, outside on arm
2b steering link
wheelbase rear all spacers to rear of arm (shortest possible) front should be a big spacer to the front of the car
droop 2mm front/3mm rear over ride height
4*caster block (use hard caster blocks!!)
1* rear hub
Hard arms on all corners
I have some other changes, but this is close now. Silver springs on all corners may work too depending on traction. I also want to try a spool again.
#8082
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
Thanks Rob,
I think my problem is I'm trying to use set-ups and solutions from my TC3 days and they just don't work on the new generation cars.I notice you're running very lite oil, soft springs and the front shocks laid down.I would think this would cause the front of the car to wallow. I also see that you're using a sway bar on the front. I always used sway bars to stiffen the side to side motion.
I think my problem is I'm trying to use set-ups and solutions from my TC3 days and they just don't work on the new generation cars.I notice you're running very lite oil, soft springs and the front shocks laid down.I would think this would cause the front of the car to wallow. I also see that you're using a sway bar on the front. I always used sway bars to stiffen the side to side motion.
You may have noticed a sometimes the front tires wear faster than the rears. That means your car is pushing and is slow. This was happening all the time with my cars until I went soft on the front end. The swaybar is to help flatten the car in sweepers while letting it still dump onto the nose in slower corners.
The other thing that helps is the higher roll centers. The older cars often had lower roll centers (look at the street weapon) and you had to really spring them hard. Now we can control this to our advantage.
Carpet. I usually run similar setups, but narrow the car up for asphalt.
#8084
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Hi, Im getting TC5R this week and will be setting it up for high speed runs
on cemented street surface. Just want to know the things I need to increase
its durability.
Found in this thread that I have to use longer screws on the suspension
arm holders... so what is the part number for the long screw?
Thanks ü
on cemented street surface. Just want to know the things I need to increase
its durability.
Found in this thread that I have to use longer screws on the suspension
arm holders... so what is the part number for the long screw?
Thanks ü