geeunit1014

iTrader: (14)

#1 and #3 will make it worse..

PartTime

iTrader: (10)

1) I think the 36's might be too hard. I ran on a light to med grip track and 32s were as hard as we could go.
2) If its turning harder one way then the other your chassis is out of balance, out of tweak, droop is wrong or your steering end points need some touching up.
3) 2 deg of rear toe is not enough. goto 3.
4) isnt that a foam body? Try a stratus or mazda 6
5) Make sure your belts are the same tention. A loser frt belt will make the car lose coming out of slippery corners no matter what you do.
6) Stand rear shock up to 3b for more forward traction.

Other than that, looks fine.

DK

BLUE 2

iTrader: (23)

Hi Guy's

Thanks for all the suggestions & replys

I just checked belts & readjusted them ( has inproved a little )

Also i did move the rear shock mount to 3B ( has inproved a little more )

I will go to 3 deg rear toe ( see if it helps )

Also i think the chassis is left hand heavy ( when sitting on bench chassis has lean to left / motor side ) i think it needs more weight on batty side .

Yes it does right hand corners really good ( in & out )

Will go tune more & see how i go .

PS - this is my mates car so i don't want it to go to good ( can't have this car going better than mine ) but still want close racing .

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Yes if you are running a lipo you will need to add weight. I would venture to guess that because of the weight difference that is why it spins out one way and doesn't always spin out the other way.

Make sure your left and right side of the car are balanced. Take some fishing line and put it in the middle holes on the shock tower and lift it off the ground. This will get you started to see how far off you are. There is more to this but it will get you closer than what you are now.

revo61

iTrader: (18)

If you are going to run rubber you need a r9-r body. I will tell you the r9 has no rear downforce and tons of front bite. It can make the rear end very loose.

BLUE 2

iTrader: (23)

Hi Guy's

I just moved some weights around & added some till the chassis is sitting level on the bench & the over steer on power out of the corners is all but gone . ( this is with no body on )

Going to balance the chassis tonight & put rear toe to 3 deg & try it tomorrow with body .

Thanks for all your help

See ya

Mr.17.5BR

i am running mike blackstocks 10.5 foam setup from the gate with a few changes.. i run schumaker green 18 lbs front and schumaker blue 16 lbs rear. every thing else is mikes set-up .. i run on a low bite asphalt track . track temp 60 deg .. i run 17.5 stock against 13.5 super stock at my track and im 1 lap on the field i am also running the r9-f body .... foam or rubber bodies . it doesnt matter if you run foam with rubber body or rubber with foam body .. a body in just another tunning aid.. if you are running rubber on asphat or carpet .. and you have plenty of stiering and not enough rear traction then you will be better suited for a foam type body for it has less front downforce and more rear bite..

ntc3racing

integy makes the 4deg castor blocks!!

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

My tc5 has sterring slop is there any fix for it.

NeverATiteLine

iTrader: (5)

Not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but for some reason the screws that hold my servo to the servo mounts keep backing out and letting my servo move back and forth slightly causing slop in my steering. Unfortunately it took me 2 weeks to figure this out cuz I always over look the "simple" things. If that is tight make sure you have the small spacer that goes between the top deck and the bell crank in there....I accidentally forgot that one time while I had it apart and that too caused some slop.

hope this helps

entitymugenmtx

iTrader: (85)

HEY poochy THANKS ALLOT FOR YOUR HELP IT'S FIXED

BIG DADDY8

iTrader: (65)

I want make the slipper spool. Looks like all i'd have to do is take the diff balls and the 2 metal rings out and put in the slipper pads. Then tighten it down. Is this correct????

fiveoboy01

iTrader: (30)

That is correct.

The manual shows assembling it without the thrust balls as well, but the word is that you SHOULD install those as it allows the diff to give and slip if you hit something, but it won't slip under normal driving conditions.

BIG DADDY8

iTrader: (65)

How tight should i tighten it?

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

any of you guys have any issues with CVA pins constantly breaking? Anyone know why and what can be done to remedy this?

Me and a team will be entering and endurance race in february but the main car we're lookin to use ive noticed breaking CVA pins at least 3-4 times in the last few months. I dont want this uncertainty during a 4 hour race. He runs 13.5 if that helps. My brother who also has a TC5 (but with front aluminum C-hubs, not sure if the rears are aluminum) has never broken the CVA pins but hes only ran it with a 27t brushed and only 2 runs now with a 17.5 brushless. Any help would be appreciated.