Team Associated TC5
#5986
Hey guys, Been a while since I've been in here.
I need to know how you guys are balancing your chassis' while running brushless and Lipo. I'm using the LRP TC and an orion 3600 pack if that help s out at all. I just need a side to side balance that will be close.
Thanks.
I need to know how you guys are balancing your chassis' while running brushless and Lipo. I'm using the LRP TC and an orion 3600 pack if that help s out at all. I just need a side to side balance that will be close.
Thanks.
#5987
Toe on the arm also has an effect on the wheelbase, more on the arm = shorter wheelbase, where as toe at the hub does not effect the wheelbase, so when you change the toe at the arm you are changing your wheelbase as well.
#5989
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
I hear ya. They don't go together quite as easily as a Tamiya TRF shock. The problem seems to be the bladder itself. The outside diameter is so big that it hangs up on the shock cap so when it hangs up it deforms allowing air in right when you begin to screw down the cap. The Tamiya shock bladders are just the right size in that they stay put even while screwing the cap down.
#5990
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
That might be why its more effective when its at the arm, it will change your wheel base. If the car rotates good in the corners but it has too much onpower rear traction then you can take 1 deg out of the arm and put it at the hub. This way you you keep the rotation part of it but change the onpower traction.
Normally, I just run 2.5 on the arm and leave it.
DK
#5991
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
I hear ya. They don't go together quite as easily as a Tamiya TRF shock. The problem seems to be the bladder itself. The outside diameter is so big that it hangs up on the shock cap so when it hangs up it deforms allowing air in right when you begin to screw down the cap. The Tamiya shock bladders are just the right size in that they stay put even while screwing the cap down.
#5994
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
No, rear toe is how hard the car can rotate in the corner, on and off power. You can use it to help with on power rear traction but I prefur other methods for forward traction.
That might be why its more effective when its at the arm, it will change your wheel base. If the car rotates good in the corners but it has too much onpower rear traction then you can take 1 deg out of the arm and put it at the hub. This way you you keep the rotation part of it but change the onpower traction.
Normally, I just run 2.5 on the arm and leave it.
DK
That might be why its more effective when its at the arm, it will change your wheel base. If the car rotates good in the corners but it has too much onpower rear traction then you can take 1 deg out of the arm and put it at the hub. This way you you keep the rotation part of it but change the onpower traction.
Normally, I just run 2.5 on the arm and leave it.
DK
#5995
#5997
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
Got the car dialed in tonight, ran Cavs setup and it felt good. I had to run a 1.5mm silver front sway to keep the rear end from washing out in the turns, which made it a little tighter in the sweeper but with the new Mazda 6 body it didnt spin out so that was good. The thing I need now with the front sway is more high speed turning, as well as some low speed turn. Im going to assume that taking off the front sway will help, I think I will try to go down to 1.25mm to see if that helps.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#5999
work it up and down to get the air out, and then move it up when you put the bladder on. make sure the pistion stays in its position while putting the bladder on