highwayman

iTrader: (2)

speedmind ; X-ray and kimbrough will fit the TC5

JCB

I'm running PRS spurs with no issues...

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Does anyone have any set-ups for high grip asphalt.

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Does anyone have any set-ups for high grip asphalt?

smyka

the one thing i have noticed with the the car is you need to break the belts in if not it seems to bind the drive train and makes the car very unperdictible i had my belts as loose as they would go and it was still to tight so i let them sit in marvel mistery oil over night and the soften up a ton i put them back on my car and what a difference the drive train was super smooth and free ..

K_Spec_RC

iTrader: (8)

ditto.

I'm running a 112/34 (6.59) on a freshly cut CO27 yet I dont seem to have the punch I would like... any suggestions?

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Larger spur. Run the biggest spur you can to make the proper ratio. A bigger spur will always have more rip. I ran the car for the first time this weekend, and was running a 35/114 with adjustment room to spare (too much room). I think you will be able to get away with a 120, maybe a 124, but I am not positive.

kn7671

iTrader: (16)

I think you need to be closer to 7.0 with a CO27. What tire are you running, and what diameter are they?

With a 13.5 BL motor and foam 56-58mm tires, I run a 4.7 to 5.0 fdr.

Weasely

iTrader: (2)

I'm nearing the end of building my TC5, which coincidentally happens to be my first kit type tourer in a longer list of off-road pursuits.. I've gotten to clipping on all the turnbuckles, having gone back to make sure everything is as free and smooth as can possibly be - the belt tension makes the drive train a little sticky, but i entirley expected that after reading through this thread a bit. The belts are on their loosest settings, respectivley.
However, thats not the problem - Now that ive clipped on the camber turnbuckle the steering is binding in a terrible way! Its fairly stiff to turn the steering mechanism by hand. Clearly its just the ball cup thats gripping onto its little ball-doodad that turns with the steering knuckle, but what can be done to free this up a little bit? Or will it even really be an issue? Smooth free steering seems to me like it would be a definate plus... Ive squeezed a bit of grease into the ball cup and replaced it, but its really not helped much.
I'm thinking i'll steal a metal geared servo from my nitro buggy :/

lotus1

iTrader: (21)

Squeeze the ball cup on the ball with a pair of pliers.squeeze along the lenght of it.Usually frees it up.

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

Mark,
How have you been dude? Are you going to the Classic this year?

Do you do this on all of your belt cars? Are you currently running the TC5?

Here is a link about the oil he is referring:
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/main.taf?p=1

Weasely

iTrader: (2)

hey, thanks I'll try that when i get home.

I also noticed, when turning the drive belt, that the spur gear looks like it wobbles by about 1mm.. I've pulled it out a few times, and tried re-screwing it onto the smaller pulleys, but its just the same, like theres a bit of distortion in it. Ive tried with the screws both lose, and tight.. maybe it just came this way?
I hope it wont be a problem :/

G2B Anthony

Change to the Yokomo BD front belt , it is longer and softer than the original one. Solve all the problem.

RCpurplecow

iTrader: (1)

quick question, the tc5 is my first belt car and I was wondering if there is a difference between the two types of plastic pieces that hold the differentials. I'm really confused because they look the same...? I got eight of them with my kit. Which ones do I use?

Weasely

iTrader: (2)

There are two sets of four from what i saw - one set without holes in the side, and one set with.
The manual shows putting in the ones without holes in the side. My rear belt was WAY too tight, so i tried the ones with holes. It seemed to make it a little bit looser. So thats what i've got in there now. :x