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Old 04-25-2013, 12:03 PM   #13186
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
Thanks, I'd seen those, but didn't know where they came from. I'll suggest that to them in lieu of something else.
The Diggity works great as well as the AE one...

http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/31257/

I am revisiting my TC5s this summer.. one for VTA and one for my 6 year old...

Need to remember all the tricks...
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:44 PM   #13187
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Anyone ever measure their track width? I'm wondering if what i've measured is acceptable. I thought it was supposed to be 190mm but perhaps that is w/ shims added. I've got 3deg rear toe in and 0deg in front. I measured the track at the top center of each tire to average the rear toe offset in track. I came up w/ 184.944mm in front and 182.562mm in the rear. I'm wondering if this is typical or not.

Thanks
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If you're measuring top-center toe makes no difference, you've pretty much taken it out of the equation. What WILL get you is camber, and you would expect the measurement at the top to be less than at the bottom because we ALWAYS run negative camber (top of tire tipped toward center of car). As we "increase" camber (a misnomer...because we're technically going further negative) the top measurement would get smaller and the bottom measurement would get larger.
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:02 PM   #13188
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If you're measuring top-center toe makes no difference, you've pretty much taken it out of the equation. What WILL get you is camber, and you would expect the measurement at the top to be less than at the bottom because we ALWAYS run negative camber (top of tire tipped toward center of car). As we "increase" camber (a misnomer...because we're technically going further negative) the top measurement would get smaller and the bottom measurement would get larger.
Good point. I'm running 1 deg of negative camber front/rear. Just measured and 1 deg added 1.5mm. So i'm at ~188mm up front and 185.6mm in teh back.

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Old 04-29-2013, 11:03 AM   #13189
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Hey Guys. Trying to get back into racing, I was looking for a good all around VTA setup for my TC5 that I could use as a starting point. Looking to race at a larger outdoor asphalt track (Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet, IL) Currently using silver up front, green in back, 40 weight oil all around, no sway bars. Also looking for the proper FDR or gearing for a larger track that your mostly on the throttle for 3/4 of the lap.

I'm also contemplating picking up a Exotek conversion for it. I have another TC5 that I just did the upgrade to, but I'll be using that one for USGT. Have yet to run it, so not sure what to expect from it yet. Would it make sense to do the same upgrade to the VTA chassis? Or do I want to stick with a stiff, heavy, chassis for that class? Sorry, been out of the game for a while. Much appreciated!
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:54 PM   #13190
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Hey Guys. Trying to get back into racing, I was looking for a good all around VTA setup for my TC5 that I could use as a starting point. Looking to race at a larger outdoor asphalt track (Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet, IL) Currently using silver up front, green in back, 40 weight oil all around, no sway bars. Also looking for the proper FDR or gearing for a larger track that your mostly on the throttle for 3/4 of the lap.

I'm also contemplating picking up a Exotek conversion for it. I have another TC5 that I just did the upgrade to, but I'll be using that one for USGT. Have yet to run it, so not sure what to expect from it yet. Would it make sense to do the same upgrade to the VTA chassis? Or do I want to stick with a stiff, heavy, chassis for that class? Sorry, been out of the game for a while. Much appreciated!

I have only raced once at Leisure's asphalt track... But I plan on running there much more this year! I run two TC5's one in 17.5Blinky, the other VTA... Here is what I found:

My two cars couldn't be more opposite! My 17.5 is the foam spec, and extremely stiff. My VTA is the Rubber spec and has a ton of flex. I have never run the Exo-tech, so I dont know how it would handle.

Leisure Hours is a huge track! When running these "slower" classes I found temperature to be almost no issue as the cars are on throttle for probably more than 75% of the lap. So I geared my cars down to a 3.0 and 2.9 FDR with about 40 degrees timing on the motor. My cars came off about 120 after a 6 minute run. I would suggest gearing even lower... so probably around a 2.5 FDR, if not lower. My cars were not the quickest down the straight!

VTA:
I found the VTA tires hook up pretty well compared to other surfaces. This car had the ITF chassis and top deck. I ran no sway-bars front or rear. 35wt oil all around. I ran Blue Springs (17lbs)up front, Silver (14.5lbs) in the Rear. My shocks were mounted in hole 2B up front, and 2B in rear. I found that laying them more horizontal helped bring more response to the car as the day went on. 5mm front ride height, 6mm rear. 1mm of front droop, 0 in rear. Camber was -1 all around, but could be slightly less with the wide rears. I had 0 front toe, and only about 1-1.5 in the rear. I used ball diffs front and rear, I never got around to experimenting with a spool or one way.

17.5:
I ran this with Solaris Hard Tires. Stock foam chassis and top deck. I ran the 1.5 sway bar up front, 1.25 in the rear. I have 60wt oil in the front 40wt in the rear. Purple (30lbs) springs up front, and Copper (25lbs) in back. Shocks mounted 3B in front 2B in rear. 6mm ride height in front, 5.5 rear. 2mm front droop, 0 in back. -1 Camber all around. 0 front toe, 1 in rear. Not much toe is needed on this track at all.. I used ball diffs in front and rear again.

As you can see both set ups are very opposite, but both yield the same result for me! Hope this helps... If you need any other info just ask!
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:17 AM   #13191
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Originally Posted by mschumi101 View Post
I have only raced once at Leisure's asphalt track... But I plan on running there much more this year! I run two TC5's one in 17.5Blinky, the other VTA... Here is what I found:

My two cars couldn't be more opposite! My 17.5 is the foam spec, and extremely stiff. My VTA is the Rubber spec and has a ton of flex. I have never run the Exo-tech, so I dont know how it would handle.

Leisure Hours is a huge track! When running these "slower" classes I found temperature to be almost no issue as the cars are on throttle for probably more than 75% of the lap. So I geared my cars down to a 3.0 and 2.9 FDR with about 40 degrees timing on the motor. My cars came off about 120 after a 6 minute run. I would suggest gearing even lower... so probably around a 2.5 FDR, if not lower. My cars were not the quickest down the straight!

VTA:
I found the VTA tires hook up pretty well compared to other surfaces. This car had the ITF chassis and top deck. I ran no sway-bars front or rear. 35wt oil all around. I ran Blue Springs (17lbs)up front, Silver (14.5lbs) in the Rear. My shocks were mounted in hole 2B up front, and 2B in rear. I found that laying them more horizontal helped bring more response to the car as the day went on. 5mm front ride height, 6mm rear. 1mm of front droop, 0 in rear. Camber was -1 all around, but could be slightly less with the wide rears. I had 0 front toe, and only about 1-1.5 in the rear. I used ball diffs front and rear, I never got around to experimenting with a spool or one way.

17.5:
I ran this with Solaris Hard Tires. Stock foam chassis and top deck. I ran the 1.5 sway bar up front, 1.25 in the rear. I have 60wt oil in the front 40wt in the rear. Purple (30lbs) springs up front, and Copper (25lbs) in back. Shocks mounted 3B in front 2B in rear. 6mm ride height in front, 5.5 rear. 2mm front droop, 0 in back. -1 Camber all around. 0 front toe, 1 in rear. Not much toe is needed on this track at all.. I used ball diffs in front and rear again.

As you can see both set ups are very opposite, but both yield the same result for me! Hope this helps... If you need any other info just ask!
Thanks mschumi101! Now that the weather is shaping up, I'll have to try out your setup.

Since my previous post, I actually went ahead and picked up the Exotek conversion. I never realized it, but I was running the original, first production run, TC5 chassis, which is as stiff as an ironing board! I had zero flex. The TC5X chassis is much narrower and gets rid of the six battery cut outs. Gives you the ideal amount of flex. Have yet to run it, but can't wait to try it out on the track.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:37 AM   #13192
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Originally Posted by xxtremehybridxx View Post
Thanks mschumi101! Now that the weather is shaping up, I'll have to try out your setup.

Since my previous post, I actually went ahead and picked up the Exotek conversion. I never realized it, but I was running the original, first production run, TC5 chassis, which is as stiff as an ironing board! I had zero flex. The TC5X chassis is much narrower and gets rid of the six battery cut outs. Gives you the ideal amount of flex. Have yet to run it, but can't wait to try it out on the track.
Yeah the stock chassis is extremely stiff! Which is why I am so surprised it works as well as the higher flex chassis! Haha, but the exotek chassis looks intriguing. I hate the battery slots! Let me know how it runs please.
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Old 05-30-2013, 08:11 PM   #13193
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Just received a TC5F FT as my first onroad car, I planned on putting my spare Reedy 17.5 in it to mess around with at Norcal Hobbies

What spur/pinion (48P or 64P) should I be running and what's a good starting set up for a track like Norcal? I'm a total onroad noob and I'd appreciate any help I could get.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:59 PM   #13194
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Just received a TC5F FT as my first onroad car, I planned on putting my spare Reedy 17.5 in it to mess around with at Norcal Hobbies

What spur/pinion (48P or 64P) should I be running and what's a good starting set up for a track like Norcal? I'm a total onroad noob and I'd appreciate any help I could get.
I would go with 64P. It gives more tuning options and finer adjustments. I run the reedy Mach 2 17.5 in my car. The biggest thing is heat. I would find a timing and gear set up that doesn't overheat the motor. A fan can also help dissipate heat in the car. On the other hand, In stock racing you want the speed, so gear it as high as you can. It also depends on how large the track is. My car is geared for about a 3.0-3.2 FDR. I run a 53 pinion, 82 spur. It changes depending on racing on carpet or asphalt, as heat builds up differently in each situation.
For set up, I would start with the stock set up. Only make small changes, as with any car. With on-road i either stiffen or soften the suspension to make changes. As I said in a previous post, I have found 2 completely different set ups that work. My TC5F is almost as stiff as possible. Good tires can help, but aren't as critical as in offroad. The set up can be changed to suit any type of tire. Check with others at the track to see what they are running.
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Old 06-05-2013, 08:38 AM   #13195
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Hey guys...I picked up a barely used TC5 recently (my first on-road car) and I had it on the track for the first time last night and its VERY twitchy. The setup sheets for this thing are very intimidating coming from off-road lol. Guess I'm asking for some newbie advice on how to set this thing up for a decent baseline to get some wheel time on this thing so I can get a solid understanding of this on-road business. Is the stock setup a good place to start? Anyone have any good reading material for this on-road newbie?! Thanks!
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:00 AM   #13196
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Hey guys...I picked up a barely used TC5 recently (my first on-road car) and I had it on the track for the first time last night and its VERY twitchy. The setup sheets for this thing are very intimidating coming from off-road lol. Guess I'm asking for some newbie advice on how to set this thing up for a decent baseline to get some wheel time on this thing so I can get a solid understanding of this on-road business. Is the stock setup a good place to start? Anyone have any good reading material for this on-road newbie?! Thanks!
I'm not saying that your car isn't twitchy, but it may feel that way coming from off road. On road cars are very responsive. I would start by turning up some steering expo on your radio to try and smooth it out a little bit. Toe in the front wheels about .5-1 degree. This should help the car center and be less responsive on entry into a corner. I would start there, but if the car is still too twitchy I would raise the front ride height or lower the rear. This can help reduce the amount of steering. The stock set up is a good starting point for any car, so if yours is far from it (particularly in the steering geometry) I would revert to the stock settings. Lastly it could be the body on the car! Lol, I've found that even in stock 17.5 racing changing a body can have huge affects on car handling. There is a thread somewhere on here that talks about that. So if you don't have one already, find a neutral handling body. As far as protoform goes, I would take the mazdaspeed 6. Stay away from the LTC-R and R9. Those are more responsive bodies that will give the car far more steering than you need, even in a 17.5 class. (I think the thread is called "body handling characteristics" or something like that) Hope this helps!
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:14 AM   #13197
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It does help, Thanks! The car was already setup from the guy I bought it from (setup for carpet, raced twice, then shelved for last couple of years) and I'm running on a parking lot track. When I say it's "twitchy" I mean it's definitely got some setup issues...Like to the point where I can't keep it going in a straight line going around an oval lol. It very well could be me, but I had a friend of mine drive it and he said the same thing (he is pretty versed in nitro on-road)

Like I said, i'm pretty intimidated by all the setup options on this thing, so I will start tearing it all down tonight and get it back to the FT setup. I would assume a setup station is a must for on-road? these things seem to need to be extremely precise in their settings..much different than off-road lol.

I love learning new things, but don't want to get frustrated from being overwhelmed.

I do have the mazdaspeed body being painted right now, last night I was just running the stock body (at least I think its stock..appears to be a honda civic body?) electronics are hobbywing and im running an 8.5 for now only because thats what I had laying around as a spare. I do plan on picking up a 13.5 for our "spec" class. (13.5 blinky and 32shore muchmore tires)


I appreciate the advice and Im sure I will be hitting this thread frequently over the next few weeks lol. For now Im just going to start fresh with the FT setup and go from there...Thanks!!
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:21 AM   #13198
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Is there a decent "intro to on-road tuning" guide out there anywhere? I want to familiarize myself with the seemingly thousands of different setup options on this thing lol
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:33 AM   #13199
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Is there a decent "intro to on-road tuning" guide out there anywhere? I want to familiarize myself with the seemingly thousands of different setup options on this thing lol
I'm sure there is one somewhere on here. The manual does a pretty good job of describing certain things. I wouldn't get a set up station, it's wasted money in my opinion. A flat surface is a must though for setting up the cars. I usually just use the floor! Haha, but I would only invest in a ride height gauge and camber gauge. It should be plenty to set up the car perfectly.

I would check to make sure the car is not tweaked. You said it wasn't used much, but if it was stored in an odd way it could have slightly warped the chassis or top deck. So it's a good idea to go back through and rebuild it all and check that it's not tweaked.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:49 AM   #13200
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^^ Great tip on the chassis being tweaked, thanks. I've got the usual alignment tools for my off-road stuff, so sounds like it will do for now. I'm reading the Huddy on-road guide now, and yea the manual does do a good job of explaining what adjustment is what...so between the two I'm sure it will all start to click. Thanks again
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