Team Associated TC5
Tech Champion
iTrader: (56)
http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/31257/
I am revisiting my TC5s this summer.. one for VTA and one for my 6 year old...
Need to remember all the tricks...
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
Anyone ever measure their track width? I'm wondering if what i've measured is acceptable. I thought it was supposed to be 190mm but perhaps that is w/ shims added. I've got 3deg rear toe in and 0deg in front. I measured the track at the top center of each tire to average the rear toe offset in track. I came up w/ 184.944mm in front and 182.562mm in the rear. I'm wondering if this is typical or not.
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
Tech Elite
iTrader: (72)
If you're measuring top-center toe makes no difference, you've pretty much taken it out of the equation. What WILL get you is camber, and you would expect the measurement at the top to be less than at the bottom because we ALWAYS run negative camber (top of tire tipped toward center of car). As we "increase" camber (a misnomer...because we're technically going further negative) the top measurement would get smaller and the bottom measurement would get larger.
Dave
Hey Guys. Trying to get back into racing, I was looking for a good all around VTA setup for my TC5 that I could use as a starting point. Looking to race at a larger outdoor asphalt track (Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet, IL) Currently using silver up front, green in back, 40 weight oil all around, no sway bars. Also looking for the proper FDR or gearing for a larger track that your mostly on the throttle for 3/4 of the lap.
I'm also contemplating picking up a Exotek conversion for it. I have another TC5 that I just did the upgrade to, but I'll be using that one for USGT. Have yet to run it, so not sure what to expect from it yet. Would it make sense to do the same upgrade to the VTA chassis? Or do I want to stick with a stiff, heavy, chassis for that class? Sorry, been out of the game for a while. Much appreciated!
I'm also contemplating picking up a Exotek conversion for it. I have another TC5 that I just did the upgrade to, but I'll be using that one for USGT. Have yet to run it, so not sure what to expect from it yet. Would it make sense to do the same upgrade to the VTA chassis? Or do I want to stick with a stiff, heavy, chassis for that class? Sorry, been out of the game for a while. Much appreciated!
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
Hey Guys. Trying to get back into racing, I was looking for a good all around VTA setup for my TC5 that I could use as a starting point. Looking to race at a larger outdoor asphalt track (Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet, IL) Currently using silver up front, green in back, 40 weight oil all around, no sway bars. Also looking for the proper FDR or gearing for a larger track that your mostly on the throttle for 3/4 of the lap.
I'm also contemplating picking up a Exotek conversion for it. I have another TC5 that I just did the upgrade to, but I'll be using that one for USGT. Have yet to run it, so not sure what to expect from it yet. Would it make sense to do the same upgrade to the VTA chassis? Or do I want to stick with a stiff, heavy, chassis for that class? Sorry, been out of the game for a while. Much appreciated!
I'm also contemplating picking up a Exotek conversion for it. I have another TC5 that I just did the upgrade to, but I'll be using that one for USGT. Have yet to run it, so not sure what to expect from it yet. Would it make sense to do the same upgrade to the VTA chassis? Or do I want to stick with a stiff, heavy, chassis for that class? Sorry, been out of the game for a while. Much appreciated!
I have only raced once at Leisure's asphalt track... But I plan on running there much more this year! I run two TC5's one in 17.5Blinky, the other VTA... Here is what I found:
My two cars couldn't be more opposite! My 17.5 is the foam spec, and extremely stiff. My VTA is the Rubber spec and has a ton of flex. I have never run the Exo-tech, so I dont know how it would handle.
Leisure Hours is a huge track! When running these "slower" classes I found temperature to be almost no issue as the cars are on throttle for probably more than 75% of the lap. So I geared my cars down to a 3.0 and 2.9 FDR with about 40 degrees timing on the motor. My cars came off about 120 after a 6 minute run. I would suggest gearing even lower... so probably around a 2.5 FDR, if not lower. My cars were not the quickest down the straight!
VTA:
I found the VTA tires hook up pretty well compared to other surfaces. This car had the ITF chassis and top deck. I ran no sway-bars front or rear. 35wt oil all around. I ran Blue Springs (17lbs)up front, Silver (14.5lbs) in the Rear. My shocks were mounted in hole 2B up front, and 2B in rear. I found that laying them more horizontal helped bring more response to the car as the day went on. 5mm front ride height, 6mm rear. 1mm of front droop, 0 in rear. Camber was -1 all around, but could be slightly less with the wide rears. I had 0 front toe, and only about 1-1.5 in the rear. I used ball diffs front and rear, I never got around to experimenting with a spool or one way.
17.5:
I ran this with Solaris Hard Tires. Stock foam chassis and top deck. I ran the 1.5 sway bar up front, 1.25 in the rear. I have 60wt oil in the front 40wt in the rear. Purple (30lbs) springs up front, and Copper (25lbs) in back. Shocks mounted 3B in front 2B in rear. 6mm ride height in front, 5.5 rear. 2mm front droop, 0 in back. -1 Camber all around. 0 front toe, 1 in rear. Not much toe is needed on this track at all.. I used ball diffs in front and rear again.
As you can see both set ups are very opposite, but both yield the same result for me! Hope this helps... If you need any other info just ask!
I have only raced once at Leisure's asphalt track... But I plan on running there much more this year! I run two TC5's one in 17.5Blinky, the other VTA... Here is what I found:
My two cars couldn't be more opposite! My 17.5 is the foam spec, and extremely stiff. My VTA is the Rubber spec and has a ton of flex. I have never run the Exo-tech, so I dont know how it would handle.
Leisure Hours is a huge track! When running these "slower" classes I found temperature to be almost no issue as the cars are on throttle for probably more than 75% of the lap. So I geared my cars down to a 3.0 and 2.9 FDR with about 40 degrees timing on the motor. My cars came off about 120 after a 6 minute run. I would suggest gearing even lower... so probably around a 2.5 FDR, if not lower. My cars were not the quickest down the straight!
VTA:
I found the VTA tires hook up pretty well compared to other surfaces. This car had the ITF chassis and top deck. I ran no sway-bars front or rear. 35wt oil all around. I ran Blue Springs (17lbs)up front, Silver (14.5lbs) in the Rear. My shocks were mounted in hole 2B up front, and 2B in rear. I found that laying them more horizontal helped bring more response to the car as the day went on. 5mm front ride height, 6mm rear. 1mm of front droop, 0 in rear. Camber was -1 all around, but could be slightly less with the wide rears. I had 0 front toe, and only about 1-1.5 in the rear. I used ball diffs front and rear, I never got around to experimenting with a spool or one way.
17.5:
I ran this with Solaris Hard Tires. Stock foam chassis and top deck. I ran the 1.5 sway bar up front, 1.25 in the rear. I have 60wt oil in the front 40wt in the rear. Purple (30lbs) springs up front, and Copper (25lbs) in back. Shocks mounted 3B in front 2B in rear. 6mm ride height in front, 5.5 rear. 2mm front droop, 0 in back. -1 Camber all around. 0 front toe, 1 in rear. Not much toe is needed on this track at all.. I used ball diffs in front and rear again.
As you can see both set ups are very opposite, but both yield the same result for me! Hope this helps... If you need any other info just ask!
My two cars couldn't be more opposite! My 17.5 is the foam spec, and extremely stiff. My VTA is the Rubber spec and has a ton of flex. I have never run the Exo-tech, so I dont know how it would handle.
Leisure Hours is a huge track! When running these "slower" classes I found temperature to be almost no issue as the cars are on throttle for probably more than 75% of the lap. So I geared my cars down to a 3.0 and 2.9 FDR with about 40 degrees timing on the motor. My cars came off about 120 after a 6 minute run. I would suggest gearing even lower... so probably around a 2.5 FDR, if not lower. My cars were not the quickest down the straight!
VTA:
I found the VTA tires hook up pretty well compared to other surfaces. This car had the ITF chassis and top deck. I ran no sway-bars front or rear. 35wt oil all around. I ran Blue Springs (17lbs)up front, Silver (14.5lbs) in the Rear. My shocks were mounted in hole 2B up front, and 2B in rear. I found that laying them more horizontal helped bring more response to the car as the day went on. 5mm front ride height, 6mm rear. 1mm of front droop, 0 in rear. Camber was -1 all around, but could be slightly less with the wide rears. I had 0 front toe, and only about 1-1.5 in the rear. I used ball diffs front and rear, I never got around to experimenting with a spool or one way.
17.5:
I ran this with Solaris Hard Tires. Stock foam chassis and top deck. I ran the 1.5 sway bar up front, 1.25 in the rear. I have 60wt oil in the front 40wt in the rear. Purple (30lbs) springs up front, and Copper (25lbs) in back. Shocks mounted 3B in front 2B in rear. 6mm ride height in front, 5.5 rear. 2mm front droop, 0 in back. -1 Camber all around. 0 front toe, 1 in rear. Not much toe is needed on this track at all.. I used ball diffs in front and rear again.
As you can see both set ups are very opposite, but both yield the same result for me! Hope this helps... If you need any other info just ask!
Since my previous post, I actually went ahead and picked up the Exotek conversion. I never realized it, but I was running the original, first production run, TC5 chassis, which is as stiff as an ironing board! I had zero flex. The TC5X chassis is much narrower and gets rid of the six battery cut outs. Gives you the ideal amount of flex. Have yet to run it, but can't wait to try it out on the track.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
Thanks mschumi101! Now that the weather is shaping up, I'll have to try out your setup.
Since my previous post, I actually went ahead and picked up the Exotek conversion. I never realized it, but I was running the original, first production run, TC5 chassis, which is as stiff as an ironing board! I had zero flex. The TC5X chassis is much narrower and gets rid of the six battery cut outs. Gives you the ideal amount of flex. Have yet to run it, but can't wait to try it out on the track.
Since my previous post, I actually went ahead and picked up the Exotek conversion. I never realized it, but I was running the original, first production run, TC5 chassis, which is as stiff as an ironing board! I had zero flex. The TC5X chassis is much narrower and gets rid of the six battery cut outs. Gives you the ideal amount of flex. Have yet to run it, but can't wait to try it out on the track.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Just received a TC5F FT as my first onroad car, I planned on putting my spare Reedy 17.5 in it to mess around with at Norcal Hobbies
What spur/pinion (48P or 64P) should I be running and what's a good starting set up for a track like Norcal? I'm a total onroad noob and I'd appreciate any help I could get.
What spur/pinion (48P or 64P) should I be running and what's a good starting set up for a track like Norcal? I'm a total onroad noob and I'd appreciate any help I could get.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
Just received a TC5F FT as my first onroad car, I planned on putting my spare Reedy 17.5 in it to mess around with at Norcal Hobbies
What spur/pinion (48P or 64P) should I be running and what's a good starting set up for a track like Norcal? I'm a total onroad noob and I'd appreciate any help I could get.
What spur/pinion (48P or 64P) should I be running and what's a good starting set up for a track like Norcal? I'm a total onroad noob and I'd appreciate any help I could get.
For set up, I would start with the stock set up. Only make small changes, as with any car. With on-road i either stiffen or soften the suspension to make changes. As I said in a previous post, I have found 2 completely different set ups that work. My TC5F is almost as stiff as possible. Good tires can help, but aren't as critical as in offroad. The set up can be changed to suit any type of tire. Check with others at the track to see what they are running.
Hey guys...I picked up a barely used TC5 recently (my first on-road car) and I had it on the track for the first time last night and its VERY twitchy. The setup sheets for this thing are very intimidating coming from off-road lol. Guess I'm asking for some newbie advice on how to set this thing up for a decent baseline to get some wheel time on this thing so I can get a solid understanding of this on-road business. Is the stock setup a good place to start? Anyone have any good reading material for this on-road newbie?! Thanks!
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
Hey guys...I picked up a barely used TC5 recently (my first on-road car) and I had it on the track for the first time last night and its VERY twitchy. The setup sheets for this thing are very intimidating coming from off-road lol. Guess I'm asking for some newbie advice on how to set this thing up for a decent baseline to get some wheel time on this thing so I can get a solid understanding of this on-road business. Is the stock setup a good place to start? Anyone have any good reading material for this on-road newbie?! Thanks!
It does help, Thanks! The car was already setup from the guy I bought it from (setup for carpet, raced twice, then shelved for last couple of years) and I'm running on a parking lot track. When I say it's "twitchy" I mean it's definitely got some setup issues...Like to the point where I can't keep it going in a straight line going around an oval lol. It very well could be me, but I had a friend of mine drive it and he said the same thing (he is pretty versed in nitro on-road)
Like I said, i'm pretty intimidated by all the setup options on this thing, so I will start tearing it all down tonight and get it back to the FT setup. I would assume a setup station is a must for on-road? these things seem to need to be extremely precise in their settings..much different than off-road lol.
I love learning new things, but don't want to get frustrated from being overwhelmed.
I do have the mazdaspeed body being painted right now, last night I was just running the stock body (at least I think its stock..appears to be a honda civic body?) electronics are hobbywing and im running an 8.5 for now only because thats what I had laying around as a spare. I do plan on picking up a 13.5 for our "spec" class. (13.5 blinky and 32shore muchmore tires)
I appreciate the advice and Im sure I will be hitting this thread frequently over the next few weeks lol. For now Im just going to start fresh with the FT setup and go from there...Thanks!!
Like I said, i'm pretty intimidated by all the setup options on this thing, so I will start tearing it all down tonight and get it back to the FT setup. I would assume a setup station is a must for on-road? these things seem to need to be extremely precise in their settings..much different than off-road lol.
I love learning new things, but don't want to get frustrated from being overwhelmed.
I do have the mazdaspeed body being painted right now, last night I was just running the stock body (at least I think its stock..appears to be a honda civic body?) electronics are hobbywing and im running an 8.5 for now only because thats what I had laying around as a spare. I do plan on picking up a 13.5 for our "spec" class. (13.5 blinky and 32shore muchmore tires)
I appreciate the advice and Im sure I will be hitting this thread frequently over the next few weeks lol. For now Im just going to start fresh with the FT setup and go from there...Thanks!!
Is there a decent "intro to on-road tuning" guide out there anywhere? I want to familiarize myself with the seemingly thousands of different setup options on this thing lol
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (30)
I would check to make sure the car is not tweaked. You said it wasn't used much, but if it was stored in an odd way it could have slightly warped the chassis or top deck. So it's a good idea to go back through and rebuild it all and check that it's not tweaked.
^^ Great tip on the chassis being tweaked, thanks. I've got the usual alignment tools for my off-road stuff, so sounds like it will do for now. I'm reading the Huddy on-road guide now, and yea the manual does do a good job of explaining what adjustment is what...so between the two I'm sure it will all start to click. Thanks again