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Old 11-17-2012, 03:38 PM   #13156
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Originally Posted by DOTHOPPER View Post
How about the shocks ? have you guys upgraded them ?
Upgrade them why? I find no issues with the stock shocks.
We use Losi pistons in them instead of the AE ones and drill a small hole in the plastic cap to achieve zero rebound.
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:05 PM   #13157
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Upgrade them why? I find no issues with the stock shocks.
We use Losi pistons in them instead of the AE ones and drill a small hole in the plastic cap to achieve zero rebound.
can you take a photo of where the holes are drilled
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Old 11-17-2012, 05:59 PM   #13158
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can you take a photo of where the holes are drilled
Turn the cap over you will see a small 1/2 drilled hole on the outter edge. Drill it out fully. 1/32 or 3/64, around 1mm.
Don't use the blue rebound foams when you rebuild the shocks.


FYI everything I type is in this thread with a search.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:02 PM   #13159
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Smile Re...TC5

Hey guys, I just traded for 2 TC5s, One is new assembled but never run, The other set up for rubber on carpet, it is in very good shape. The guy I got them from can't find the spare arm mounts, arm mount shims, or wheel base shims. I have been able to find all these parts on Ebay except the arm mounts, I did find TC6 arm mounts are they the same as the TC5. Thanks.

TJ
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:54 PM   #13160
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Hey guys, I just traded for 2 TC5s, One is new assembled but never run, The other set up for rubber on carpet, it is in very good shape. The guy I got them from can't find the spare arm mounts, arm mount shims, or wheel base shims. I have been able to find all these parts on Ebay except the arm mounts, I did find TC6 arm mounts are they the same as the TC5. Thanks.

TJ
If you mean ASC31195 Arm mounts, I asked a team driver and he thinks the plastics are the same except the tc6 (asc31321) has a new 0 offset and the tc6.1 ones have an offset variety, so you can space them 2mm less.....his words not mine.

For ASC31197 which is the arm mount nut.

The tc5 mount nuts are threaded the tc6 (asc31122) are not.
To use the tc6 mount bushing you will need longer screws and 3mm lock nuts.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:58 PM   #13161
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So when drilling out your shock caps you leave the blue foams out and just use the bladder?
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:30 PM   #13162
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So when drilling out your shock caps you leave the blue foams out and just use the bladder?
Yes, don't use any of the foam. That will give you no rebound.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:46 AM   #13163
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I've got two TC5's. One I have set up for VTA. Its great. Does dandy with plenty of grip all around.

The other TC5 is for my 17.5 TC racer. I've got it set up per the manual for the TC5R page. In the rear, I have 2 degrees of negative camber and about 3 degrees of toe like the set up sheet suggests. Tires are sweeps and/or JACO Blues.


I just can't seem to get very good rear traction. Seems like it needs weight in the back, but that its the proper way to solve the problem I'm sure. I'm running blue springs up front and greens in the back. Arm mounts are #1's.

Any suggestions?
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:56 PM   #13164
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
I've got two TC5's. One I have set up for VTA. Its great. Does dandy with plenty of grip all around.

The other TC5 is for my 17.5 TC racer. I've got it set up per the manual for the TC5R page. In the rear, I have 2 degrees of negative camber and about 3 degrees of toe like the set up sheet suggests. Tires are sweeps and/or JACO Blues.


I just can't seem to get very good rear traction. Seems like it needs weight in the back, but that its the proper way to solve the problem I'm sure. I'm running blue springs up front and greens in the back. Arm mounts are #1's.

Any suggestions?
What section of the turn are you giving up rear traction, going into the turn, through the center or on exit?
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:27 AM   #13165
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Seems to be mostly when I'm going into the turn. The rear breaks loose at that point and if I feather the throttle I usually fish tail a little. If I brake, often I spin out.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:28 PM   #13166
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Seems to be mostly when I'm going into the turn. The rear breaks loose at that point and if I feather the throttle I usually fish tail a little. If I brake, often I spin out.
You might want to add 1 degree of anti-dive up front to keep a little of the weight from transferring under breaking. I would start with keeping the 2A rear mount and change the forward mount to 1A assuming that you are running the Base runbber setup. Might also try to drop the rear ride height to 4.5mm from 5.0mm. It sounds like the car is transferring to much weight under breaking or when the car starts to roll entering a turn. If you can limit that weight transfer to the front in these conditions, you will keep a little more weight over the rear of the car which will keep a bit more traction at the rear tires. This would be a starting point to get the car to calm down a little.

Kurtis
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:27 AM   #13167
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Originally Posted by cegpcola View Post
You might want to add 1 degree of anti-dive up front to keep a little of the weight from transferring under breaking. I would start with keeping the 2A rear mount and change the forward mount to 1A assuming that you are running the Base runbber setup. Might also try to drop the rear ride height to 4.5mm from 5.0mm. It sounds like the car is transferring to much weight under breaking or when the car starts to roll entering a turn. If you can limit that weight transfer to the front in these conditions, you will keep a little more weight over the rear of the car which will keep a bit more traction at the rear tires. This would be a starting point to get the car to calm down a little.

Kurtis
Good suggestions. Thank you. I will print this and give it a shot this weekend. I can't drop my ride height for competition, but for club racing I can. 5mm is the minimum during races.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:40 PM   #13168
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Indy, loose rear on corner entry has been a common problem with several TC5 cars at our track. You can try reducing the amount of droop in the rear suspension. Less rear droop will reduce the amount of weight transferring to the front when off power and will keep more weight on the rear tires increasing rear grip. As a test try only 1mm over rear ride height and see how that feels. If the rear is too planted then try 1.5mm over ride height and see if that frees the car back up. Droop changes of only 1/2mm can be pretty noticeable IMO.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:22 PM   #13169
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Thanks SS. Like I say, my VTA version works great. Its just the one set up like a normal TC that's loose. Of course, I imagine much of that is the tires. I purchased both of them used, but in nice shape. I took them apart and followed AE's manual set up initially.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:40 PM   #13170
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The droop change is also a good place to look at limiting weight transfer. Good suggestion as well.

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