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Old 01-26-2012, 05:12 PM   #13081
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if you get the AE lipo tray and a standard hard case lipo, with all the electronics shifted as close to center as possible, you can add as little as 63 grams to the outside of the lipo retainer.
you might need a bit more, maybe 80 grams as i moved my motor in a little. though RTR my car was 1400 gram.


Sadly, my tc5 is now retired. chassis was very tweaked when i got it, a season of outdoor, new holes drilled for my various mods, a broken top deck..

will cost like $100 to get her going again. but its ok. i got the good use out of it. it survived my noob year without breaking till the very end. if i can find a good price on a chassis and top deck i might bring it back later.
for now, switching to an E4RS.

maybe tc6 next? though the top photon looks good, as does the new Team magic. wont have $500 for a car for a little while though.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:02 PM   #13082
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-Hub

Heres who makes the aluminum spur gear hub
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:48 AM   #13083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
Who makes an aluminum one?
King Headz makes it. Amain sells them, look here: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-Hub
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:27 PM   #13084
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I got the King Headz spur gear holder, but I can't put it together yet because i'm still waiting on the 20T pulleys to come in. Initial impression is that it looks well made. Should have the other parts by mid week and will let you know how it works out.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:39 AM   #13085
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Picked up tc5 to start racing touring car. Been racing off road and pan. But more rc here in on road. Was in the price range and parts are easily available. I can't seem to find a good starting setup.

Track is carpet with medium to high traction.
17.5 blinks, allowed timing on motor (I will be running Novak ballistic)
Lrp sxx comp ver 2 esc.
Lipo 5000mah
The tc5 has a one way.
Sweep exp32 tires is what everyone runs here.

So if someone can help with a base setup and recommended for to start with, that would be awesome.

Thanks,
Rob
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:48 PM   #13086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robudda723 View Post
Picked up tc5 to start racing touring car. Been racing off road and pan. But more rc here in on road. Was in the price range and parts are easily available. I can't seem to find a good starting setup.

Track is carpet with medium to high traction.
17.5 blinks, allowed timing on motor (I will be running Novak ballistic)
Lrp sxx comp ver 2 esc.
Lipo 5000mah
The tc5 has a one way.
Sweep exp32 tires is what everyone runs here.

So if someone can help with a base setup and recommended for to start with, that would be awesome.

Thanks,
Rob

I just assembled my TC5. I'm going to start with the basic rubber tyre setup for the TC5 on the Associated website (35w front & rear, blue front/silver rear springs, etc).
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:38 PM   #13087
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Looking for tips on my TC5. Just ran it tonight for the first time.

Set up- House rules VTA, 17.5, blinky, 1s lipo. Silver springs F and R.

First run car seemed good, slight push in tight tunrs. I had the D/R down to about 75 percent, as the car felt twitchy any higher.

Second run I put more travel in the steering, and lowered the D/R to 65. Changed the F shock position to straight up instead of 1 up from bottom. The car really seemed to ok, but seemed to be very loose, and the rear end would come around pretty easy.

Any ideas?
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Old 02-03-2012, 05:51 PM   #13088
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Default Gear diff in my TC5R

my mod. sakura gear with 40T pulley in TC5R.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC5-img_0392.jpg   Team Associated TC5-img_0393.jpg  
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:34 PM   #13089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mos-leung View Post
my mod. sakura gear with 40T pulley in TC5R.
More details please! I've been looking for a gear diff that I could use in the TC5 for a while now. What did you have to do to make it work?
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Old 02-04-2012, 06:47 AM   #13090
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Attachment 873023
Quote:
Originally Posted by 06meanstreak View Post
More details please! I've been looking for a gear diff that I could use in the TC5 for a while now. What did you have to do to make it work?
Enlargethe outdrive to match AE bone.
Cut out a hole (25-26mm) in 40T pulley.
Cut out the original sakura pulley.
Push the new pulley into gear main body.
Check the pulley in right position and glue it.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC5-img_0426.jpg  

Last edited by mos-leung; 03-15-2012 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:22 PM   #13091
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Hello everyone. So I got my TC5 FT last week and have it all built ready to go. I just have a simple gearing question.
Specs: Mamba Max Pro & Castle 6900kV 4 pole, 110 spur, 31 pinion (3.5 fdr).
Track: Small ~12-14sec lap times. Short straights. Medium/low traction asphalt.

After driving maybe 2 minutes with a good amount of stop/go, my ESC will burn my finger within 5-6 seconds. I have a feeling that's too hot.

What's a good fdr that will get me decent acceleration without catching my ESC on fire? All help is appreciated!
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:33 AM   #13092
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Default TC5 Gearing

Hey just picked up a TC5 and had a gearing question. I will be running an Ballistic 8.5t motor no boost. i will be running on a track with long straights and medium traction asphalt...this car came with a 75T spur gear...any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:11 AM   #13093
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I'm hoping someone can help me with my setup of my TC5.

This year I'm getting back into racing after a long break. During January, I raced a FT TC4 at my local track. I used the kit setup from the manual, and I loved it. It was basically neutral, and I actually needed a little more steering in some parts of the track.

This weekend, I debuted my new TC5 (not the R or the F), and it was probably the most evil handling r/c car I've ever driven . I race on a medium traction track (no sugar water), and I used the standard TC5R rubber setup here -http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/TC5R/tc5_standard_rubber_2008.pdf
The only change to the above setup was - 2 degrees negative camber all around, 5.5mm ride height front and rear. It has the AE slipper spool in the front, and the AE LiPo battery holder.

At the end of the straight on my track, there is a low speed left hand corner. My TC5 was flicking the tail out as soon as I slowed down for the corner and turned in. On the other low speed corners, I simply could not accelerate without the back end coming around quickly and sharply. I don't mean "whoops, here comes the back end slide" type of oversteer, I mean fast, uncatchable, spin-in-its-own-length type oversteer. It was so undriveable I had to park it for the day after 2 heats.

When I set the car up, I made sure everything was balanced. I measured all 4 shocks using a digital caliper, carefully set the spring preload on all shocks to adjust for the different weight of the LiPo pack (Orion 5500 90C), and made sure all the chassis and shock tower screws were carefully tightened to avoid tweak. I'm sure the chassis isn't "tweaked", because the handling was just as evil in left and right hand corners. I have added 28 grams of weight on the battery side of the chassis (14gm in front of the battery, 14gm behind it).

Since the race meeting yesterday, I have made the following changes -
40wt shock oil front and rear
shock position - 3B front, 1B rear
double check diff settings (all smooth, no slip)
re-set my ESC (LRP SXX TC V2)
radio - reduce the steering dual rate on my Helios from 150 to 85

I haven't taken off the sway bars, but that could be the next step.

Weather conditions were hot (36 degrees C), tyres were Ride 36s, prepped with LRP traction compound and warmed with Trinity tyre warmers before every race.

I also raced a new Yokomo MR-4TC BD yesterday as well. I was more worried about this car, as I usually hate driving cars with a one way (it has a spool front, but a one way gear on the spur gear shaft). In complete contrast to the TC5, the Yoko was beautiful, easy to drive and forgiving, even though it also has a chassis designed for Sub Cs and not LiPo cells.

Any setup advice anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:30 AM   #13094
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Your droop is probably off (uneven from side to side)
Check for bad bearings in the wheel hubs
Go softer tires in the rear
Take out some front camber
Rear springs could be too stiff
Go stiffer springs in the front
Sway bar probably uneven, but in any case, remove rear sway bar.
Put it on a tweak board.....and buy the XXX-Main Chassis Set Up Guide Book.....
Probably the best $20.00 you'll spend.
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:33 AM   #13095
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Oh, and your set up is probably "Tweaked"....that will cause the rear to snap out.
Check by lifting the center of the chassis, if both tires don't lift at the same time, your preload on the shocks at the other end, is uneven.
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