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Old 01-14-2012, 04:16 PM   #13051
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What front caster block is everyone using? I know they come 2deg-4deg and 6 deg.

Von what gearing do you run in the summer at The Hobby Shop?
4 deg are standard, 6 deg makes for a smoother steering, I would recommend to try 6 deg, you will see some difference, have a look at some of the setup sheet from Rick or Keven with 6 deg blocks
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Old 01-14-2012, 05:54 PM   #13052
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What front caster block is everyone using? I know they come 2deg-4deg and 6 deg.

Von what gearing do you run in the summer at The Hobby Shop?
i ran the 4's & my frd was around 4.0-3.7
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:50 PM   #13053
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I guess no one is running a Losi JRX-S front? Or a Tamiya 416 front belt?

Guess I might have bought a one of a kind...
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Old 01-15-2012, 12:36 AM   #13054
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I guess no one is running a Losi JRX-S front? Or a Tamiya 416 front belt?

Guess I might have bought a one of a kind...
I have heard of guys running Losi parts before, never tried them myself, as for belts, AE are really strong and last very well, but if you can find the same pitch and teeth belt, it makes no difference about the make.
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:13 AM   #13055
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I just bought this new-to-me TC5. Man, the guy running it had a HIGH setup. Well, it looks strange to me anyway. This is what he was running on carpet. Does this make sense to anyone? I'm pretty new at this, but I do know its far from the stock set up. I don't know whether to run it and see how it does, or take it back to the manual's original set-up and go from there. I notice he's got single dot up front and double dot in the rear.

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Old 01-15-2012, 08:30 AM   #13056
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What was he running it in and what are you planning on running it in? The rear is stock (2 dots) except his droop. But again it can really depend on what class/motor he was running. If your running it the same "class" as he was Id try it and see if it works for you. If not take it back to stock set up and work from there.
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:02 AM   #13057
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2 dots is the stock setup in the rear, but it looks like it is in the top hole (B) instead of the bottom hole (A). (A) Being the stock setup.

I would put the entire car back on the stock setup and tune from there. Too many things look jacked to me.
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:57 PM   #13058
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indyhobbies, I would change the wheel nuts too on your car.

Maybe he run that setup for a real low, glued to the carpet setup, fine on really smooth carpet but if you get bumps...

Do you also have silver springs on front or are they gold?
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Old 01-16-2012, 07:01 AM   #13059
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Anyone used these packs yet? How was the runtime and which motor were you using?

ECOPOWER 2S 5000MAH 30C
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:16 AM   #13060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Monkey View Post
What was he running it in and what are you planning on running it in? The rear is stock (2 dots) except his droop. But again it can really depend on what class/motor he was running. If your running it the same "class" as he was Id try it and see if it works for you. If not take it back to stock set up and work from there.
I believe he ran it in 17.5. I'm going to use it in VTA or USGT. So that's been my thought too, is just take it back to stock.
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Old 01-16-2012, 08:18 AM   #13061
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indyhobbies, I would change the wheel nuts too on your car.

Do you also have silver springs on front or are they gold?
Blue on Front, silver on back. Why change the wheel nuts? Because they have some age or due to larger diameter that you'd suggest?


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Originally Posted by 06meanstreak View Post
2 dots is the stock setup in the rear, but it looks like it is in the top hole (B) instead of the bottom hole (A). (A) Being the stock setup.

I would put the entire car back on the stock setup and tune from there. Too many things look jacked to me.
Yep, its in the top (B) hole. I think I will just "stock" it for now. If I run out of time, then I will get my electronics mounted and run it once just to see what it does. Then, go back to stock.
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:03 AM   #13062
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So I am struggling to rebuild the ball diff. I guess like many people I am having a time getting the screw to catch the thread on the nut. Just wonder any tips on compressing the spring?

Also what diff grease do you guys use on the front? Normal silicon diff grease or something thick like the anti-wear gear?
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Old 01-16-2012, 10:53 AM   #13063
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Two thing to build the diff. Stand a largerdriverup on the desk and push the dif down on it as youtry to thread the bolt or slidr a driver across the outdrive slot and squeeze as you drive the bolt.
Though i find pushing down to work best. Just dont slip lol. Hurts.
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:15 PM   #13064
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Default 13.5 tc5

does anyone have a rtr tc5 for 13.5t class theyre willing to sell?
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:49 PM   #13065
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indyhobbies, yes if your nuts looks that bad, my guess is that the rubber insert are gone too.

Revo61, 30C for batteries is now way too low for competitive racing, gear yourself for 50C minimum.
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