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Old 01-07-2012, 09:17 AM   #13036
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Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
the TC5 had diff originally, think that the chassis was made for 6 cells, so when you go lipo, it needs to be tweak a good bit.
You are right. I downloaded the manual off the AE home site. It clearly shows a standard ball diff on the front and back. Both identical to each other.

The new-to-me TC5 that I bought had a diff up front with white rubber like pads and the adjustment screw tightened so that it just didn't move period. I've been fighting the way it drives since the day I got it. I assume that a solid front end like that was stock. Not so. Can't wait to drive it on Sunday now! I hope it will make a big difference.

While I was in there with everything apart, I cleaned and rebuilt both differentials to like new condition.

Here's what the track looks like where I race:

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Old 01-07-2012, 09:55 AM   #13037
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com View Post
The new-to-me TC5 that I bought had a diff up front with white rubber like pads and the adjustment screw tightened so that it just didn't move period. I've been fighting the way it drives since the day I got it. I assume that a solid front end like that was stock. Not so. Can't wait to drive it on Sunday now! I hope it will make a big difference.
The front diff with the white pads is the slipper spool and is the standard setup for the TC5R. If you download the TC5R manual from ae's site, you'll see it in the instructions.
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:21 AM   #13038
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We use to run with the spool on front, and it takes a little to get use to (tarmac) on carpet I would recommend to go back to diff F/R. Also, I would recommend to change the balls and pads in diffs to make sure that they were not damaged, it is fairly hard to see the damage just looking at them, they are cheap, so invest in these.

You have to move the batteries outward for Lipo, otherwise the weight is too much R/L, usually until you can connect the inside pack plug on the outside of the top deck.

The TC5 has a tendency to have the arse wanting to move to the front, it takes some time to set-up properly. Do not hesitate to put weights on the battery side either.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:45 AM   #13039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olly986 View Post
We use to run with the spool on front, and it takes a little to get use to (tarmac) on carpet I would recommend to go back to diff F/R. Also, I would recommend to change the balls and pads in diffs to make sure that they were not damaged, it is fairly hard to see the damage just looking at them, they are cheap, so invest in these.

You have to move the batteries outward for Lipo, otherwise the weight is too much R/L, usually until you can connect the inside pack plug on the outside of the top deck.

The TC5 has a tendency to have the arse wanting to move to the front, it takes some time to set-up properly. Do not hesitate to put weights on the battery side either.
More great advice. Can't beat these forums! Thank you! This TC5 came to me with an aftermarket lipo holder. I like that, but I can see that I need to check my side to side weight. I will do that this morning before heading to http://www.RCARIndy.com.

It also had TC6 link ends installed and several other improvements. So, I'm happy about all of that, just need to get it set up the way it works for me.



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Team Associated TC5-tc5scott.jpg   Team Associated TC5-tc5scottlinks.jpg  
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:49 AM   #13040
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Default Check for Tweak

This is probably the most overlooked chassis set up, that also has the greatest effect if it's out of whack: CHASSIS TWEAK.
Stiff Carbon Fiber chassis cars, won't flex to take up the incorrect shock preload. If one shock is putting more pressure on one tire, it will cause all sorts of handling problems. Doesn't matter if the chassis is completely flat or not, but the tires contact patch pressure must be even. Check on a "Tweak Board". IF you don't have a tweak board, then check "Old School" method. Lift up the front of the chassis, at the center point. Watch the tires. They should lift off the surface at the same time. If they do not, adjust the opposite end of car (rear of the car) shocks by tightening one shock L or R, and loosen the other , until they lift at the same time. Turn the car around, and repeat.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:04 AM   #13041
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What is everyones preferd method of holding the battery in? Tape or Battery strap? Do you use a battery tray with the strap or velcro?
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:18 PM   #13042
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Default Battery hold downs and tweak.

Revo up here in the North Country we run a 1S Lipo for VTA so I use both a hard strap and tape to keep them from flying out. I wish more 1S Lipo's were molded 1/2 round on the bottom like the SMC batteries. The only other one I have seen made that way is from Losi.

Good point on tweak Red, I need to go through my TC5R chassis before next weekends race at the Armory.
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:33 PM   #13043
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What is everyones preferd method of holding the battery in? Tape or Battery strap? Do you use a battery tray with the strap or velcro?
Go for a tape or even velcro straps if you can find that fits/screw, battery bar is not good and if over tighten will tweak your chassis, also it will stop the flex, so battery bar is out..

Also, I filled the top deck to make it thinner for more flex, it worked well. otherwise the rubber rings route is good too with counter sunk washers.

You could maybe invest into 0 blocks from TC6 for your wishbones, I never tried these on TC5 but my guess is that it would be good to raise/lower roll.

Make sure you set your antiroll bars evenly R/L, there is some ways to do it properly.

That's about it for now.
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:36 PM   #13044
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Anyone know if Ae has pre drilled 3 hole pistons I would need a part number thanks

On topic I servo tape my battery in works like a charm and looks very nice too.
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Old 01-11-2012, 11:00 PM   #13045
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I used losi 57 pistons. Same bore but
You have to ream the center out to
Fit asc shaft. No biggie.
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:45 AM   #13046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
This is probably the most overlooked chassis set up, that also has the greatest effect if it's out of whack: CHASSIS TWEAK.
Stiff Carbon Fiber chassis cars, won't flex to take up the incorrect shock preload. If one shock is putting more pressure on one tire, it will cause all sorts of handling problems. Doesn't matter if the chassis is completely flat or not, but the tires contact patch pressure must be even. Check on a "Tweak Board". IF you don't have a tweak board, then check "Old School" method. Lift up the front of the chassis, at the center point. Watch the tires. They should lift off the surface at the same time. If they do not, adjust the opposite end of car (rear of the car) shocks by tightening one shock L or R, and loosen the other , until they lift at the same time. Turn the car around, and repeat.
Thanks Red7. Great advice. I will just as you suggested. I found a BIG solution to a lot of the problems I'd been having was the toe-in on the rear end. The chassis came with about 1.5 to 2 degrees of toe-in. The guys at my track told me to make it 3-4 degrees. I put in the inserts to get it to that point (3.5 degrees) and that made a HUGE difference in the way the car drives! I was really happy with what that small change did!
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:50 AM   #13047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
This is probably the most overlooked chassis set up, that also has the greatest effect if it's out of whack: CHASSIS TWEAK.
Stiff Carbon Fiber chassis cars, won't flex to take up the incorrect shock preload. If one shock is putting more pressure on one tire, it will cause all sorts of handling problems. Doesn't matter if the chassis is completely flat or not, but the tires contact patch pressure must be even. Check on a "Tweak Board". IF you don't have a tweak board, then check "Old School" method. Lift up the front of the chassis, at the center point. Watch the tires. They should lift off the surface at the same time. If they do not, adjust the opposite end of car (rear of the car) shocks by tightening one shock L or R, and loosen the other , until they lift at the same time. Turn the car around, and repeat.
Thanks Red7. Great advice. I will do just as you suggested. I found a BIG solution to a lot of the problems I'd been having was the toe-in on the rear end. The chassis came with about 1.5 to 2 degrees of toe-in. The guys at my track told me to make it 3-4 degrees. I put in the inserts to get it to that point (3.5 degrees) and that made a HUGE difference in the way the car drives! I was really happy with what that small change did!
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:11 PM   #13048
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just picked up a used TC5 for a fairly good deal. Just wondering if anyone is using a setup with the Losi JRX-S front steering (Hub carriers, front hub, and front CVD)?
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:21 AM   #13049
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What front caster block is everyone using? I know they come 2deg-4deg and 6 deg.

Von what gearing do you run in the summer at The Hobby Shop?
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:11 PM   #13050
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What front caster block is everyone using? I know they come 2deg-4deg and 6 deg.

Von what gearing do you run in the summer at The Hobby Shop?
I run the 4 degree caster blocks.
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