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Old 09-06-2011, 08:10 AM   #12931
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That's a lot of work, but looks like it did the trick. It certainly is balanced. my only question is about the slotted holes. Can you tighten the screws into the CF enough to keep the mount from sliding? If not, may need some type of spacer for that gap.

Finally gave up and ran mine in the street yesterday, sans LiPo tray and antenna tube mount. I needed to break in the diff anyway. Ths car has tremendous acceleration, wow. Ambient temps were 92 deg F, "track" temp was 114. Motor temps at the end of 6 minutes were 146 deg F at the can, 123 at the motor tabs. Speedo was 125 deg F. FDR was 9.67 which was just a guess with a 4T motor, but I don't think it's too far off. Someone let me know if you have other ideas.

One other thing. How do you build these shocks with zero rebound? I've heard it's hard to do with the stock bladders, but mine want to go full rebound, even after I bleed some oil off. do you just keep bleeding them until you get less rebound?
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:05 AM   #12932
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Zero Rebound is only possible with a hole in the shockcap, but still you should be able to adjust different rebound with the bladders and the piston in different distances to it.
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:12 AM   #12933
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Screws are pretty tight. Any tighter and id kill the hex.

Only took about 45 minutes. Lipo holder took about the same. Using the ae lipo bracket with some stand offs. Drilled new holes. Ill post pic tonight with the car rtr. Lipi is pretty outboard after i put my fans on.
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:24 PM   #12934
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Guys does the exotek chassis and top deck make this car come alive?
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:53 PM   #12935
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car ready to run. battery is pushed quite far outboard but cut out 80+ grams of added weight.
ill have to wait til sunday to really see if it was any better or not. just mucking about on the street though the car seems to have equal responsiveness left/right so good sign =)





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Old 09-07-2011, 05:11 AM   #12936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transplantlife View Post
Guys does the exotek chassis and top deck make this car come alive?
Having owned and raced several TC5s, with and without the Exotek chassis in VTA, RCGT, and 17.5 Blinky Touring Car indoors on carpet and outdoors on asphalt, if you're dead set on an AE product: TC5<Exoteck TC5<TC6.

Bottom line, anything TC5 is at a disadvantage to a more modern lipo/brushless purpose designed chassis.

Some would tell you that it's less of an issue the slower you go, a la VTA, but VTA (and 17.5 Blinky TC) is a game of corner speed and clean lines. Out of the box, with stock set up, most other chassis can run a tighter line and carry more corner speed than a fully worked up and tuned TC5, regardless of chassis or "hard" vs. "soft" suspension parts.

The TCX is a good bandaid fix to give new life to an older brushed/round cell car, but regardless it's basic layout is at a disadvantage to newer chassis.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:08 AM   #12937
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Bingo! If I were really going to race TC, I would just bite the bullet and pick up a TC6 or other car designed for LiPo and BL. Why drop $200 or more into new chassis, etc. for a car that's still not going to be as good as one you can pick up for under $400? But, since I'm just playing around onroad after a 5 year hiatus and have a TC5 that didn't cost me any cash, why not see what I can do with? At this point, the biggest problem with the car will be the loose nut behind the steering wheel .

Valk, I see what you mean about the AE LiPo tray. I haven't put it on a tweak station yet, but I can see what it's doing. The holes line up, but once you tighten the screws it pulls the chassis. Might be solvable with a Dremel, don't know yet. I had already had the LHS order it before y'all talked about it. It's paid for, so I might as well hack it up and see if I can get it to work properly.

Oh yeah. Anyone else have a problem with the antenna tube fitting too loosely into the mount? Brand new antenna mount. Had to use a little Shoe Goo to hold it in place for now until I find a more permanent solution. Tried 3 differetn tubes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Having owned and raced several TC5s, with and without the Exotek chassis in VTA, RCGT, and 17.5 Blinky Touring Car indoors on carpet and outdoors on asphalt, if you're dead set on an AE product: TC5<Exoteck TC5<TC6.

Bottom line, anything TC5 is at a disadvantage to a more modern lipo/brushless purpose designed chassis.

Some would tell you that it's less of an issue the slower you go, a la VTA, but VTA (and 17.5 Blinky TC) is a game of corner speed and clean lines. Out of the box, with stock set up, most other chassis can run a tighter line and carry more corner speed than a fully worked up and tuned TC5, regardless of chassis or "hard" vs. "soft" suspension parts.

The TCX is a good bandaid fix to give new life to an older brushed/round cell car, but regardless it's basic layout is at a disadvantage to newer chassis.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:53 AM   #12938
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Meh at te end of the day we are just racing toy cars. If you like spending
Money go ahead and upgrade.

Part of racing is maximizing your own driving performance wih what you have. Id love a tc6 but wife would murder me if she knew what my startup costs were this year.
I dont think id know the difference really as im still new anyway. Play with the car by all means. This is supposed to be fun.
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:36 PM   #12939
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That's what I'm saying. I swapped for this car, so I've laid out about $25 (including LiPo tray) so far. I'm buying a new body also, but just because the one that came with it is fugly. With my current onroad skills it will be awhile before the car is holding me back instead of vice versa. But, when/if I reach that point I'm not going to dump a bunch of money into this car trying to improve it, when I can just dump a little larger sum and get something vastly superior. Last I checked, they weren't giving the Exotek parts away.
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:02 PM   #12940
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Same for me. I dont expect to outgrow it for a few seasons. Or i start making the A consistantly and can identify things the car does i dont like.

Dunno if all my mods amount to faster laps yet. But i dropped almost 10% of
My rtr weight. That should have some positive effect.
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Old 09-07-2011, 05:14 PM   #12941
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All these people saying, Oh the tc6 is better no matter what you do to a tc6. yes, that is true, but its the driver that makes the difference guys..
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Old 09-07-2011, 05:19 PM   #12942
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hmmm looking at my chassis in hand im wondering if im not better off putting the battery back inboard and adding a little weight. i moved it out a half inch or so. ill do some digging myself but wonder if having the center of mass inboard is more or less important than roll balance.
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:25 PM   #12943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by For_the_win View Post
All these people saying, Oh the tc6 is better no matter what you do to a tc6. yes, that is true, but its the driver that makes the difference guys..
You are right, but you cannot see it in black or white. The TC5 is fast, no question, even with LiPo and without Exotek-chassis it is still competitive, but the cars show totally different characters on the track.
And here the TC6 is the better car because it is much easier to drive in all conditions. Of course if you have Keven Herberts talent then there is no need to change the chassis. For my limited talent I am now able to do consistent laptimes within 1-2 thenth the whole race long. I never was able to do this with the TC5 because it is twitchy driven on the edge.

So the TC6 chassis has about the same speed, but it puts less demands on the driver.
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:57 AM   #12944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by For_the_win View Post
All these people saying, Oh the tc6 is better no matter what you do to a tc6. yes, that is true, but its the driver that makes the difference guys..
Normally I would agree but the TC6 is way easier to drive than the TC5r. The TC5r setup sweet spot is quite small compared to the TC6.

I went from a TC5r with only a lipo tray mod to a TC5r with full Exotek conversion to a TC6 and each step I got faster. The TC6 turns in better and is easier to stop spinning out in poor conditions.

The only mods I've done with the TC6 were a velcro battery hold down and some extra battery stops along the centre of the chassis. I had a terrible build with the TC6 but once I got the car on the track it really is a lot easier to be fast with a TC6 than a TC5r
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:12 PM   #12945
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hmmm looking at my chassis in hand im wondering if im not better off putting the battery back inboard and adding a little weight. i moved it out a half inch or so. ill do some digging myself but wonder if having the center of mass inboard is more or less important than roll balance.
Was going to reply to your earlier post, but sounds like you're working on it. Lighter is not always better. Sometimes it is, sometimes it isn't. I'll take a car that's a 1/2 second a lap slower, but predictable, over a car that can be driven quicker but feels like it's on the edge all the time, because I simply don't have the talent to wheel like that. Most of us don't, whether we like to admit it or not. Sometimes lighter is better, like the 17.5 Blinky class I'll probably end up running. If I can get the car to handle the way I want with little to no excess weight, then that's where I'll be. I do like my weight more inboard, I think it makes the car more responsive.
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