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Old 09-01-2011, 08:10 AM   #12916
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i dont get the problem with steering. i generally set my epa so the knuckle arm just starts to overlap the rollbar lower ball mount. for my savox 72% epa on each side.
maybe 5ft turning radius?

if your trying to lock your steering, do you ever have your front belt start to flap against your servo saver on full lock? i cant figure out what causes it other than possibly needing a new belt.
My steering blocks graze the black plastic mount that hold the rollbar mount in place on top of the a-arm. Really not much of a problem, I expect it to disappear once the ride height and droop are set properly. As far as full lock, watch your steering blocks when you turn the car. "Full lock" is when the steering block hits the caster block. That's as far as you'd want to go, anything further stresses your servo. Doubt I'll ever run it with that much steering, but I use it as a baseline to be sure my steering is balanced left to right, then dial it out from there. No idea about the belt hitting the servo saver. I only ran this car for about 30 seconds to test it before I made the trade. Wiating for a few odds and ends parts (LiPo tray, antenna tube mount) and going through the car before I run it. But, you don't want your belt hitting anything if you can avoid it.
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:02 AM   #12917
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Olly, got a chance to look at the car a little more. I have a question about setting toe. Might also explain what you were talking about with setting the steering, I might not have understood completely. Rear toe is set by adding a toe shim inside the rear arm mount and/or chancing rear hub carrier, easy enough. Front toe is where I really have a question. The manual shows 2 shims per side (1 front, 1 rear) inside the front a-arm mount. Is that how you set the toe on the TC5? Get both steering links to equal length, then just adjust at the a-arm? I was thinking you'd adjust toe by adjusting the length of the steering links like most cars, but apparently not? A little confused.

Also a question about balance. Obviously a lot of talk about balancing the TC5 with LiPos. Was the car balanced with NiMH batteries or was balance still a problem with those?
You are right, for the rear you can either put shims between bulkhead and plastic arm mounts or have a different degree of rear hub. Usually 3 degree is good.

for the front again you are right, you set it by changing the steering link lengh, I use a setup board to do this, but you can also use shims like the rear, it changes the way the car handles, inboard or outboard settings.
I use -1 to +1 front toe depending on track.

Hope this clarify your questions
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:43 PM   #12918
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It does answer it, thanks. I still have my setup board and 1/10 setup system, so I'm in good shape. Hadn't been used in a looong time until I decided to build a drift car a few months back.

Anyone have an answer on whether the TC5 was balanced with NiMh batteries? I've read that it was, or at least drove as if it was balanced. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the behavior of the car with LiPo is the fact you have 6 cutout slots in the bottom which are allowed to flex when there aren't any cells b/w them. Man, I wish I could run these Reedy LiPos with this motor. I might drop a milder motor in it and run with the Reedys, then with a flat LiPo to see if the car behaves differently. If someone made a LiPo that was shaped like a 6cell we'd be in business.
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:48 PM   #12919
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Just pushing the battery outboard until the car balances works fine. I wouldnt recomend the ae lipo tray though. Doesnt work with flipped belts. I had toget creative with spacers and long screws to make it work and it tweaked my chassis. Gonna make something out of acrylic instead.
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Old 09-01-2011, 02:47 PM   #12920
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It does answer it, thanks. I still have my setup board and 1/10 setup system, so I'm in good shape. Hadn't been used in a looong time until I decided to build a drift car a few months back.

Anyone have an answer on whether the TC5 was balanced with NiMh batteries? I've read that it was, or at least drove as if it was balanced. Makes me wonder if part of the problem with the behavior of the car with LiPo is the fact you have 6 cutout slots in the bottom which are allowed to flex when there aren't any cells b/w them. Man, I wish I could run these Reedy LiPos with this motor. I might drop a milder motor in it and run with the Reedys, then with a flat LiPo to see if the car behaves differently. If someone made a LiPo that was shaped like a 6cell we'd be in business.
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Just pushing the battery outboard until the car balances works fine. I wouldnt recomend the ae lipo tray though. Doesnt work with flipped belts. I had toget creative with spacers and long screws to make it work and it tweaked my chassis. Gonna make something out of acrylic instead.
TC5 was fine with Nimh but Lipo is defenitely a problem to balance, really switch over belts is the first solution, mount all electrics as closed to center as possible, if you can manage to find one, inboard motor mount (was made in England a while back) one solution is an Exotek chassis, close enough to TC6 and made for Lipo, but you will still need balancing with weight, do not use the battery bar, this tweak the chassis, good old tape is better, did you have a look at my chassis on previous page, made this lipo holder with pieces of carbon fiber and use tape, very well balanced, AE lipo tray is crap, there is maybe the possibility to use TC6 motor mount if you remove some of the rear bulkhead, was thinking about it a while back, there is hole to be done on TC5 chassis but it might work.
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Old 09-01-2011, 07:14 PM   #12921
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what would be the effect of raising the top deck up 1-2mm with the blue alu spacers for/aft to make enough room for the stock mount to slip under? then you could move the mount forward so its inline with the rear bulkhead, drill some new holes in the chassi and one through the top deck itself and into the top of the motor mount. could move the motor in 5-7mm that way. run a xray 110 ish spur and larger pinion.

also moves the weight more forward on the chassis. just a thought. cant really do anything without modifying the top deck though.
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Old 09-02-2011, 06:01 AM   #12922
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what would be the effect of raising the top deck up 1-2mm with the blue alu spacers for/aft to make enough room for the stock mount to slip under? then you could move the mount forward so its inline with the rear bulkhead, drill some new holes in the chassi and one through the top deck itself and into the top of the motor mount. could move the motor in 5-7mm that way. run a xray 110 ish spur and larger pinion.

also moves the weight more forward on the chassis. just a thought. cant really do anything without modifying the top deck though.
The reason I mentionned TC6 motor mount is that you don't need the top plate to be drilled, we run it without a screw in to get more flex.
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:39 PM   #12923
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Beginning to remember why I gave up TC. Haven't even put the car on the track yet and I have a headache LOL. Going to go run some 1/8 nitro offroad this weekend to clear my head. No precision required.
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Old 09-02-2011, 10:23 PM   #12924
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this car isn't really that hard to set up. you just have to add weight to keep it ballanced with lipo and learn to drive it.
Id just try one of rick's setups and tweak it to your track conditions. ive altered his 2009 setup very little just for my own skill level and comfort on our track.

this weekend though ill be modifying my chassis trying to move the motor inboard somewhat. also fab a lipo tray that wont tweak the chassis.
right now im weighed at almost 1500 grams lol. 80grams added to make the 1480 weight requirement, and more still to balance the car.
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:48 AM   #12925
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Now that I've gone through the car I have a couple more questions, particularly about reading the setup sheets:
1) Wheelbase settings. There's a total of 3mm shims on the inner hinge pin, but they only give one measurement, and the diagram on setup sheet shows the front shim only. So, I assume 2mm means 2mm in front, 1 behind, 1mm would be 1 in front, 2 behind, etc?

2) Arm mount shims. Sometimes they show rear shim only, sometimes a front and rear, both for forward mount and rearward mount. Looks like the shims are used to widen the car slightly, as well as adjust toe. So, if I see a rearward setting with front arm mount spacing at 2mm, rear at 3 deg + 1mm, they've just widened the car slightly and are running a little less than 3deg toe in?

3) Belt tension. Cam A, rear at positon 12, front at position 1. That sound about right? Car has very little runtime on it, almost no wear on outdrives. Front belt still feels a hair tight, but maybe it will loosen a little with running.

4) I need new arm mounts, I'm missing a 2 dot. Tower/Great Planes doesn't show that part number (31195) anymore. Can I use the TC6 arm mounts (31321), or are they different?
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Old 09-03-2011, 10:01 AM   #12926
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Now that I've gone through the car I have a couple more questions, particularly about reading the setup sheets:
1) Wheelbase settings. There's a total of 3mm shims on the inner hinge pin, but they only give one measurement, and the diagram on setup sheet shows the front shim only. So, I assume 2mm means 2mm in front, 1 behind, 1mm would be 1 in front, 2 behind, etc? Yes got that one in one

2) Arm mount shims. Sometimes they show rear shim only, sometimes a front and rear, both for forward mount and rearward mount. Looks like the shims are used to widen the car slightly, as well as adjust toe. So, if I see a rearward setting with front arm mount spacing at 2mm, rear at 3 deg + 1mm, they've just widened the car slightly and are running a little less than 3deg toe in? it is mainly to widen the track and to set your toe at back

3) Belt tension. Cam A, rear at positon 12, front at position 1. That sound about right? Car has very little runtime on it, almost no wear on outdrives. Front belt still feels a hair tight, but maybe it will loosen a little with running. don't expect too much loosing AE belts are the best and nearly undestructible, I never followed the book set up for my belt but adjusted as I wanted it, but manual set up is good, if the front feels a little stiff, loose it by one notch at the time until you are satisfied

4) I need new arm mounts, I'm missing a 2 dot. Tower/Great Planes doesn't show that part number (31195) anymore. Can I use the TC6 arm mounts (31321), or are they different? They are the same and if you get a TC6 set you will get 0 mount too
don't hesitate if you have more questions
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Old 09-03-2011, 01:51 PM   #12927
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Awesome. After finally having some time to go through the car I feel like I have a pretty good understanding for how it works. It's in good shape too. Guy said he only put 3 packs through it and it sure looks like it. No wear or dings on outdrives, bearings all in good shape, no wear on spur gear, no scratches on bulkheads, nothing bent. Thanks for the help. Soon as I get the LiPo tray and antenna tube in next week I'll be able to put it together and run it. Gonna burn a little nitro and get dirty tomorrow.

Dangit, one more thing. What's the offset on the stock AE wheels? I have a set of Yoko wheels from BITD, but it looks like the offest is different, and back of my mind I seem to remember they were. My digital calipers quit on me, so I can't measure it.
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:44 PM   #12928
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Awesome. After finally having some time to go through the car I feel like I have a pretty good understanding for how it works. It's in good shape too. Guy said he only put 3 packs through it and it sure looks like it. No wear or dings on outdrives, bearings all in good shape, no wear on spur gear, no scratches on bulkheads, nothing bent. Thanks for the help. Soon as I get the LiPo tray and antenna tube in next week I'll be able to put it together and run it. Gonna burn a little nitro and get dirty tomorrow.

Dangit, one more thing. What's the offset on the stock AE wheels? I have a set of Yoko wheels from BITD, but it looks like the offest is different, and back of my mind I seem to remember they were. My digital calipers quit on me, so I can't measure it.
There is a manual part still on a digital caliper ! Not sure what you call original AE wheels, the last one I got with a kit came from my TC3...many years ago.

You can always fit a shim inside the wheel hex to make a different offset, get some solaris, Sorex or even Sweep in 36 if you race in hot temp. Lipo tray is not very good unfortunately.
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:15 PM   #12929
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There is a manual part still on a digital caliper
Yah, tere's a manual part, but no markings on mine. Cheapo. I have Vernier calipers somewhere, but they appear to have grown legs. My granddaughter likes to play with my tools!
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:50 PM   #12930
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alright. Low tech, but managed to get the motor in line with the bulkhead for $0.

Hacksaw and Dremel were used.

cut the screw hole off the one side of the motor mount. just cut through the bars into the center with hacksaw. used a fine metal file to errode the top of the mount to fit under the top deck.





slotted the stock mount holes inward to allow adjustment. would have been tricky to get the holes just right otherwise.


trimmed the top deck slightly with a sanding drum.

motor sits flush to the rear bulkhead. i flipped the pinion around and the mesh is all good.



all my equipment layed out on the chassis. NO WEIGHT ADDED

the money shot. not perfect but balanced without added weight.



still have to strip the weights off my lipo retainer and maybe add some holes to the chassis to allow adjustment.
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