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Old 08-30-2011, 08:32 AM   #12901
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Yeah, I have some Reedy LiPos that have the bumps that fit into the LiPo cutouts. They fit well, but only 20C, not sure if they can deliver what a 4T motor is going to ask for. Do they have a LiPo tray for the TC5 (like they did for the B44)?

Man, things have changed since I quit racing my trusty MR4TC Worlds car ha ha ha. There's a little more adjustability in the TC5. Question about the cam settings. They have a chart in the manual showing cam settings depending on what diff height you run. Are those just suggestions? Because I looked at a Rick Howart setup that I thought would be close to what I need for my track. He's running cam B (didn't say, but I assume in low height), but the cam position settings didn't match anything in the chart in the manual for that cam. The track I'm going to try it on is Gulf Coast Raceway in Porter, Texas. Big track, it will hold a 4T. It's the track they ran 2010 IFMAR Fuel Sedan Worlds on.
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Old 08-30-2011, 12:45 PM   #12902
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Yeah, I have some Reedy LiPos that have the bumps that fit into the LiPo cutouts. They fit well, but only 20C, not sure if they can deliver what a 4T motor is going to ask for. Do they have a LiPo tray for the TC5 (like they did for the B44)?

Man, things have changed since I quit racing my trusty MR4TC Worlds car ha ha ha. There's a little more adjustability in the TC5. Question about the cam settings. They have a chart in the manual showing cam settings depending on what diff height you run. Are those just suggestions? Because I looked at a Rick Howart setup that I thought would be close to what I need for my track. He's running cam B (didn't say, but I assume in low height), but the cam position settings didn't match anything in the chart in the manual for that cam. The track I'm going to try it on is Gulf Coast Raceway in Porter, Texas. Big track, it will hold a 4T. It's the track they ran 2010 IFMAR Fuel Sedan Worlds on.
20C for a 4t, this could be interesting to see how long the battery will last before it puffs or smoke.

I never saw cam B being used, but hey I haven't seen all set ups, it will be logic to which way it is (up or down) by the number he uses for the belt set up.1 to 16 is up 17 to 32 is low, Rick usually recommends medium set ups.

You need to set the left side first, motor side then match the right side.
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:27 PM   #12903
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20C for a 4t, this could be interesting to see how long the battery will last before it puffs or smoke.

I never saw cam B being used, but hey I haven't seen all set ups, it will be logic to which way it is (up or down) by the number he uses for the belt set up.1 to 16 is up 17 to 32 is low, Rick usually recommends medium set ups.

You need to set the left side first, motor side then match the right side.
Fortunately, I have other batteries. They just don't fit as well and will require a LiPo tray. Which I found, BTW. And now I also know what you mean when you say asso. Well, I would attach the setup, but I can't get the file size to reduce enough. It's Howart KO-2009 setup. It says cam B. Belt settings are 7 and 5, and I don't see that anywhere in the chart, so I assume the chart is just suggested settings. I know the only other belt drive car I owned would eat belts if they were too tight. Don't want to shop that aisle. I'm clear on how to adjust the tension, just not sure how much belt deflection I'm looking for.

Just found out they're running a 17.5 no timing/boost/turbo class at another track here. Perfect, saves me swapping speedos around. But, you have to run a GT body. I assume the TC5 uses standard 190mm body? Can't find it referenced anywhere. I might keep this car after all. It's pretty, nice eye candy.
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:40 PM   #12904
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Fortunately, I have other batteries. They just don't fit as well and will require a LiPo tray. Which I found, BTW. And now I also know what you mean when you say asso. Well, I would attach the setup, but I can't get the file size to reduce enough. It's Howart KO-2009 setup. It says cam B. Belt settings are 7 and 5, and I don't see that anywhere in the chart, so I assume the chart is just suggested settings. I know the only other belt drive car I owned would eat belts if they were too tight. Don't want to shop that aisle. I'm clear on how to adjust the tension, just not sure how much belt deflection I'm looking for.

Just found out they're running a 17.5 no timing/boost/turbo class at another track here. Perfect, saves me swapping speedos around. But, you have to run a GT body. I assume the TC5 uses standard 190mm body? Can't find it referenced anywhere. I might keep this car after all. It's pretty, nice eye candy.
yep 190 for bodyshell

7 and 5 would be slot on top 1 is first notch on left (viewed on left side of car) I found very often that I do not look too much on other people belt tension, I check mine so it is loose enough with not slippage.

you can have a look at the Associated site and TC5 manual for an idea on cams if you do not have it:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...c5r_manual.pdf
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:55 PM   #12905
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yep 190 for bodyshell

7 and 5 would be slot on top 1 is first notch on left (viewed on left side of car) I found very often that I do not look too much on other people belt tension, I check mine so it is loose enough with not slippage.

you can have a look at the Associated site and TC5 manual for an idea on cams if you do not have it:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...c5r_manual.pdf
Yeah, I have the manual, and that's exactly what I mean. Look at the chart on page 22. It gives you recommended cam postion based on your diff height. With cam B, your diff height is either high or low, and the cam position settings in the chart aren't anywhere near 7 and 5. I know nothing's perfect and the belts will stretch, etc. I don't know if there are different pulley gears for the TC5, but the setup sheet shows standard. With the Losi, you wanted it to skip a tooth or 2 under braking, or you were going to break a belt soon. I'll figure it out. Really like the design of the car, so easy to work on, so much adjustability.
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:06 PM   #12906
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wouldn't you want your axel's to be as close to parallel per ride height to limit that straightening force under acceleration out of a corner ect?
or would you want them high/low to suck/lift the end of the car depending on where your trying to put teh power?

still new to the tuning. fighting with a tweaked car =( kicks out in the rear now under acceleration.
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:30 AM   #12907
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I would guess you want the bones as close to parallel with the diff outdrives as possible, just to reduce wear. I'm going to assume that's the reason for the adjustable diffs, but I haven't had the car long enough to start playing with it. Should result in small differences in CG depending on diff height, but can't imagine they'd be too significant. If you're having traction trouble, try using 8mm screws, with an o-ring under the collar, to attach the top plate. Might help. Too many variables for anyone to tell you exactly what's up with your car.

I have an issure with mine. If I try to go full lock on the steering, when I turn left is hits the left side cap for the sway bar (the black plastic that sits on the a-arm). Is this common, or did the guy I got it from just have droop/ride height settings jacked up? Haven't put it on the setup system yet, so don't even know where everything is right now. Looks like he has 1 deg antidive in the front.
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:38 AM   #12908
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I would guess you want the bones as close to parallel with the diff outdrives as possible, just to reduce wear. I'm going to assume that's the reason for the adjustable diffs, but I haven't had the car long enough to start playing with it. Should result in small differences in CG depending on diff height, but can't imagine they'd be too significant. If you're having traction trouble, try using 8mm screws, with an o-ring under the collar, to attach the top plate. Might help. Too many variables for anyone to tell you exactly what's up with your car.

I have an issure with mine. If I try to go full lock on the steering, when I turn left is hits the left side cap for the sway bar (the black plastic that sits on the a-arm). Is this common, or did the guy I got it from just have droop/ride height settings jacked up? Haven't put it on the setup system yet, so don't even know where everything is right now. Looks like he has 1 deg antidive in the front.
Well first would be to set your droop, and antiroll bar, then your steering is too much if you touch something, check that your servo is not forcing also and have both side the same. You do not need full lock to turn on TC.

your resoning is why we use cam A middle/low/high to keep dogbone as level and straight.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:47 PM   #12909
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No, but I need to be able to go full lock to get the steering balanced and EPA set, then I can bump back with D/R. Car is in good shape, just a lot of little things like that. He used the long screws in rear mount location of top deck to front bulkhead, but no o-rings. When I started looking at the steering it was binding, it was hitting the screw beneath bulkhead. Little things like that aggravate me. I feel pretty certain it's a combination of ride height and droop making the steering blocks hit the sway bar holder, but not messing with that until I get the rest done. New, sanded diff rings with no flat spots feel good though! Speaking of which, my rear diff has aluminum outdrives. I assume that's an option part? Because I have a diff in the spare parts that has composite outdrives with blue rings around the outer edge, I think that's stock? I also have a spool (an actual spool, not the spool with pads that comes with the kit) in the spare parts box. Also has blue Al outdrives, not sure if it's an AE part, or Yok, or what.

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Well first would be to set your droop, and antiroll bar, then your steering is too much if you touch something, check that your servo is not forcing also and have both side the same. You do not need full lock to turn on TC.

your resoning is why we use cam A middle/low/high to keep dogbone as level and straight.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:53 PM   #12910
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No, but I need to be able to go full lock to get the steering balanced and EPA set, then I can bump back with D/R. I feel pretty certain it's a combination of ride height and droop making the steering blocks hit the sway bar holder, but not messing with that until I get the rest done. New, sanded diff rings with no flat spots feel good though! Speaking of which, my rear diff has aluminum outdrives. I assume that's an option part? Because I have a diff in the spare parts that has composite outdrives with blue rings around the outer edge, I think that's stock? I also have a spool (an actual spool, not the spool with pads that comes with the kit) in the spare parts box. Also has blue Al outdrives, not sure if it's an AE part, or Yok, or what.
Composite are standard with blue ring, leave that aside and keep the aluminium with blades..? fit the spool (more than likely Asso) if you have a diff up front, it should be better.

Regarding setting up your steering, I never set a car with full lock and go back, i set my central point as close to zero as possible on free servo, fit my servo horn and without top deck set steering link as central as possible (both links on same lengh as per manual) and upscale my steering until both side run a nice circle and I have enough steering around the full lengh of track. BUT do this after setting your droop and antiroll bar front and rear, I have explain on TC6 post a little while back how to set antiroll bar correctly (Rick Howard commented on it)
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:24 PM   #12911
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I like a lot of steering. And of course a car that doesn't steer equally left and right is almost undrivable. I do what you said and get everythign as even as possible, but then I go to full lock on both sides and bump back from there. Once I set the droop, etc. I don't think it will hit the support anymore, but we'll see. At a stand still now because I have to use the thick spacer with the Airtronics servo I put in (the one in the car was NOT going to be enough with the 4T), and I need M3 x8 or M3 x 10 screws, which I don't have. Still learning the car, haven't used this style AE shock yet, so I'll look at them this evening. I saw that Reflex has new shock bladders for the TC6, which I assume will work with the TC5 shocks?

I found an old RC Tech thread where John Stranahan was working on setups with LiPo, I'll have to read that. I haven't seen him in about 5 years, since the last fundraising race we did. Bright guy, I'm sure there's a ton of good info in there. Between him and leaning on Cristian I ought to be able to at least get the car to handle passably well. There are a lot of neat features on this car, makes me want to get a look at a TC6 for sure.
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Old 08-31-2011, 05:42 PM   #12912
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i dont get the problem with steering. i generally set my epa so the knuckle arm just starts to overlap the rollbar lower ball mount. for my savox 72% epa on each side.
maybe 5ft turning radius?

if your trying to lock your steering, do you ever have your front belt start to flap against your servo saver on full lock? i cant figure out what causes it other than possibly needing a new belt.
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:02 PM   #12913
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figured out what caused the rear end to kick out i think. one of my bearings in the rear exploded when i tried to take the hub assembly appart to reassemble/clean/lube the cva. was probably grabbing on that side, which is weird cause the car seemed to track straight until you get on the gas.

question though. are 6x10 bearings a universal standard? can i use them from losi/xray or whatever car i can find at LHS?
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:29 AM   #12914
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figured out what caused the rear end to kick out i think. one of my bearings in the rear exploded when i tried to take the hub assembly appart to reassemble/clean/lube the cva. was probably grabbing on that side, which is weird cause the car seemed to track straight until you get on the gas.

question though. are 6x10 bearings a universal standard? can i use them from losi/xray or whatever car i can find at LHS?
They are fairly standard, but check the thickness too, i think 3 racing are the same too, well I have some on my TC6 for the gear diff that fits snug.
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:00 AM   #12915
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figured out what caused the rear end to kick out i think. one of my bearings in the rear exploded when i tried to take the hub assembly appart to reassemble/clean/lube the cva.
That would do it. You might try Avid for the bearings. You can just email David and ask about the thickness to be sure. But, since he drives for AE I'm betting they'll work.

Olly, got a chance to look at the car a little more. I have a question about setting toe. Might also explain what you were talking about with setting the steering, I might not have understood completely. Rear toe is set by adding a toe shim inside the rear arm mount and/or chancing rear hub carrier, easy enough. Front toe is where I really have a question. The manual shows 2 shims per side (1 front, 1 rear) inside the front a-arm mount. Is that how you set the toe on the TC5? Get both steering links to equal length, then just adjust at the a-arm? I was thinking you'd adjust toe by adjusting the length of the steering links like most cars, but apparently not? A little confused.

Also a question about balance. Obviously a lot of talk about balancing the TC5 with LiPos. Was the car balanced with NiMH batteries or was balance still a problem with those?
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