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Old 08-15-2011, 11:24 PM   #12886
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Originally Posted by valk View Post
im still new, but running rick howart's super stock setup + some rear caster, slightly more upright front shocks, blue spring and 50 wt oil in front, silver spring 40wt rear.
Which setup did you start with? This one?
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...stock_2009.pdf
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:59 PM   #12887
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Default tc5r HELP

My TC5R pulls left badly under hard acceleration. It tracks straight but as soon as you pull the trigger it pulls to the left. IM an oval guy so this sedan stuff is all new! I assume its all the weight on the left side of the car? The belts seem really tight but im not sure how much tension they should have?
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Old 08-19-2011, 01:14 AM   #12888
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Originally Posted by teamhdrive View Post
My TC5R pulls left badly under hard acceleration. It tracks straight but as soon as you pull the trigger it pulls to the left. IM an oval guy so this sedan stuff is all new! I assume its all the weight on the left side of the car? The belts seem really tight but im not sure how much tension they should have?
It is most likely that your front droop screws are not the same settings left to right meaning your car raises more on one side, but only under acceleration.

Another reason might be a seized bearing on one side or some other binding just pick the car up and make sure all 4 wheels turn easily.

Regards

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Old 08-19-2011, 01:23 AM   #12889
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I recently went back to my TC5 to make it into my wet car and I started to think why the TC6 is so much better.

My thoughts were that it was primarily the more inboard weight, the long front camber link and the narrower chassis, top and bottom.

So i decided to remove my diggity offset lipo brace which hangs the lipo off the side to aid left right balance. The lipo is just attached by tape now, as close to the belt as I dare put it. I also attached the front camber link to the alloy shock tower mount, lower hole and shimmed the outer link to keep the same angle.

My belts are flipped so I moved all electronics (covered in plasti-dip for water proofing) inboard as far as they could go, the motor is already more inboard than stock as I have the aftermarket bulkheads.

The rest of the setup is from Juho Levanen.

The car is nice to drive in the dry conditions I tested in but still some way off my TC6, does anyone have any other suggestions as to why the TC6 is so much better?

Cheers,

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Old 08-19-2011, 09:54 AM   #12890
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Originally Posted by teamhdrive View Post
My TC5R pulls left badly under hard acceleration. It tracks straight but as soon as you pull the trigger it pulls to the left. IM an oval guy so this sedan stuff is all new! I assume its all the weight on the left side of the car? The belts seem really tight but im not sure how much tension they should have?
I had this same issue once. I had forgotten that the front spool isn't a solid axle but a slipper spool and it had loosened a bit allowing one side to slip while the other didn't. tighetend it and my problem went away
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:41 AM   #12891
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I tried also a lot with my TC5. Flex mod, motormount mod, bulkhead mod, topplate mod, and so on. I tried Lipo with 260g, worked with weights... A lot of effort ran into that car. It was fast, no question, but always difficult to drive on the limit.
In the end I would guess that the symmetrical chassis without cuts and the smaller bulkhead width make the overall package work much better. The centered masses just make it near perfect.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:41 PM   #12892
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I just bought a new tc5r.... I read somewhere that i have to do some mods if i want to run lipo & brushless in it.... is this true? i cant find it in this thread? What changes are needed if any?
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Old 08-21-2011, 02:19 PM   #12893
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I just bought a new tc5r.... I read somewhere that i have to do some mods if i want to run lipo & brushless in it.... is this true? i cant find it in this thread? What changes are needed if any?
Well you haven't look or read very far! you will need to change the belts and diff sides, move your electronics as close to the center as possible and find a way to fit your Lipos outward on chassis, Asso has a part for this or you can make something yourself, look at my car on top of this page for idea.
You might need to put weights to balance the chassis, but do not worry too much if you just race for fun.
Use spool fully tighten on front, but not too much as not to strip diff bolt, get silver and green springs if they are not in kit and that's about it for a start.
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Old 08-25-2011, 07:15 PM   #12894
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Default TC5X Mods

I have a TC5X and wondering if it's worth spending on the time to get this thing to handle. Last time I was out I finally got it to handle, expect when I had to push it. It would go from I nice push like I like to an all out push like a dump truck just by pushing it a little harder.

Are there any tips or mods that I can do to make this car more predictable? I have heard the moving the lipos as close as possible to the center helps? Any others or is it kinda a lost cause?

I have not problems running the car in blinky classes, when I try to run in the boosted classes the car becomes a handful.
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Old 08-26-2011, 01:35 AM   #12895
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I have a TC5X and wondering if it's worth spending on the time to get this thing to handle. Last time I was out I finally got it to handle, expect when I had to push it. It would go from I nice push like I like to an all out push like a dump truck just by pushing it a little harder.

Are there any tips or mods that I can do to make this car more predictable? I have heard the moving the lipos as close as possible to the center helps? Any others or is it kinda a lost cause?

I have not problems running the car in blinky classes, when I try to run in the boosted classes the car becomes a handful.
With the exotek chassis, it should be better, but if you fit the cell the closer to center your car will be unbalance.
The setup is going to be different from blinky to boosted (cos of extra speed) so I am not surprise that your car is not the same if you keep the same setup.
Shocks springs and oil/piston to work on, links and droops will be also something to look into.
they are plenty setup sheet arounds, download a couple with mod setup and work from this.
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:46 AM   #12896
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Holy carp. I just picked up a barely used TC5 in a trade, get on here and find 860 pages! I just want to see this 4T motor run, not even sure if I'm going to keep the car LOL. What's the general consensus on the best way to balance with LiPo. I've always liked my weight as much inboard as possible, but I can see with teh TC5 how that would unbalance the car. Anyone tried moving the LiPo inboard and making up the difference with lead weights? Or is moving the LiPo ouboard further the best way?

Blue Eagle, see you're in Austin. Where are y'all running there, and what classes? Only TC racing I now of for sure in H'town is a boosted 17.5 class on a smal track. Could do it, but would have to take the SXX out of the car and swap with the gear in my B44. Bleah.
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:58 AM   #12897
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My experience was to let the Lipo where the cut outs are and add weight to the inside. If not balanced yet add some more weight to the outside. Just pushing the Lipo to the outside makes the car handle bad, because you dont have the same weight (and inertia) on both sides.
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Old 08-29-2011, 03:26 PM   #12898
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My experience was to let the Lipo where the cut outs are and add weight to the inside. If not balanced yet add some more weight to the outside. Just pushing the Lipo to the outside makes the car handle bad, because you dont have the same weight (and inertia) on both sides.
Thanks. If you do it this way (leaving the LiPo where the cutouts are), I assume you don't flip the diffs/belts around? Looks like the belt would hit the battery if you flip it.
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:24 PM   #12899
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Thanks. If you do it this way (leaving the LiPo where the cutouts are), I assume you don't flip the diffs/belts around? Looks like the belt would hit the battery if you flip it.
The thing is that if you leave the setup as Nimh you still need to hold your Lipos that they do not slide side ways, also depending on pack, the tube connector will be under top plate, so cabled pack might be better, if you just use the battery holding bar, you will flex the chassis too much even if Lipos have grooves under, which is very rare now.

Cannot remember but if it stays as Nimh I do not think you can reverse belts.
By putting the Lipos 5/6mm out, my chassis is balanced with standard motor mount.
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:03 AM   #12900
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Yes, I didnt flip the belts. My VTEC 5300 Lipo was with 260gr. very light and had these bumps on the bottom side to fit in the Nimh-cut-outs. I had to reach 1400gr. minimum weight and it still worked.

With todays 300gr. Lipos it should work even better. Most of them doesn't have the bumps, but you can mill yourself some weights that fit into the cut outs from lead-plates and glue them to the bottom of your Lipo to hold it in place.
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