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Old 05-21-2010, 04:58 PM   #12361
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
Don't bother with the original TC5, as it lacks many of the aluminum and chassis upgardes the R and F versions have. The TC5F would be fine if all you run is foam and carpet. However, many drivers just use the R version for both asphalt and carpet. The R and F versions are essentially the same car except the F version has stiffer springs, caster blocks, hard plastic parts, etc.
the f is for foam tire r is for rubber the factory team was originally designed for foam mod racing it has thicker chassis as well as the parts bfong mentioned i run exotek chassis with ft top deck but i modified it cut brace out and split it down the middle works like a champ
can post pics later if anyone is interested
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:43 PM   #12362
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
A couple of things the R and F versons have that the original TC5 doesn't have are aluminum diff outdrives and an improved top deck that allows for more flex.

Regarding shimming the front end out, I use tamiya shims. Sorry I don't have part numbers.
I've already upgraded the outdrives and just went with the Exotec chassis. Just wasn't sure if there was anything else to that nature.Thanks anyways.
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Old 05-21-2010, 07:30 PM   #12363
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Rick, are you using just normal washers to put on the axles or are you using special hexigon washers? I've been wondering about this myself.
The washer are round and made specifically for this application. I think every TC manufacturer makes them except AE. Generally they are available in .5, 1, and 2 mm thickness.

Hex spacing is one of the best fine tuning adjustments you can make.
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:18 PM   #12364
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my new motor for the tc5......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCVzmRGPL-s
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:18 AM   #12365
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I too have this issue of my TC5r pulling to the left under acceleration. It tracks straight when coasting and stops in a straight line but under acceleration it veers left.

My droop is even on both sides front to rear, tires lift off the ground at the same time when checking each end.

I have about 0.5mm tweak in my chassis no matter how many times I put the top deck on when pressing on a flat surface. I adjust for tweak using a Hudy tweak station. Toe is +1 front and -2.5 rear.

I find this veering to the left worse on low traction where the wheels are spinning more. I've tried different sets of tires and it does the same thing. Brand new bearings installed as well.

It's been fairly frustrating as the car used to track straight. Really not too sure why this has started.
Found the problem in my rear hub bearings. Noticed that if I jammed the front of the car against a wall and gently accelerated on a very low traction surface like tiles (to minimize the strain on everythng) the right side rear wheel would spin way before the left side. Left side bearings did not spin as freely as the right side when I disconnected everything. All brand new so flushed out the stock grease they came with and lubed with Hudy Bearing oil and the car seems to be tracking a lot better now. Gotta flush out the rest of my new bearings and lube with Hudy oil now. I run my rear diff quite loose so this probably made the extra friction of the left side bearings more noticeable
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:59 PM   #12366
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The washer are round and made specifically for this application. I think every TC manufacturer makes them except AE. Generally they are available in .5, 1, and 2 mm thickness.
Is this what I'm looking for?

Tamiya: Tamiya (#53646) - Tamiya Wheel Spacer Blue

Xray: Alu Wheel Shim Offset 0.75mm (2)
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Old 05-24-2010, 08:32 AM   #12367
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Yes.
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Old 05-24-2010, 09:44 PM   #12368
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can someone give me a good starting FDR for 17.5 lrp x11 and tekin rs
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:14 PM   #12369
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can someone give me a good starting FDR for 17.5 lrp x11 and tekin rs
You're not giving people very much information to work with when you post a question like this. FDR really depends upon many factors such as ESC settings, car setup, driving style, track size, temp, etc, but here goes nothing...between 6.0 and 7.0.
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:38 PM   #12370
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
You're not giving people very much information to work with when you post a question like this. FDR really depends upon many factors such as ESC settings, car setup, driving style, track size, temp, etc, but here goes nothing...between 6.0 and 7.0.
well, sparing patrons from too much info, i'm trying to get a base line set up without the esc tweaks I'm running on a straight between 90 - 120 ft. with a tight infield. I drive on throttle through most corners- I'm just trying to get a ball-park figure here as I don't want to purchase gears I won't be needing-
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:01 PM   #12371
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Originally Posted by mr crum View Post
the f is for foam tire r is for rubber the factory team was originally designed for foam mod racing it has thicker chassis as well as the parts bfong mentioned i run exotek chassis with ft top deck but i modified it cut brace out and split it down the middle works like a champ
can post pics later if anyone is interested
yea give me any info u can, i want to hit the track with the best car for me, if the F or R or TEAM ver, is better, let me know. like i said i have a ton of used foams to use. i do see all the other elec guys running rubber at my track though.

can on car be turned into the other easily?
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:24 PM   #12372
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yea give me any info u can, i want to hit the track with the best car for me, if the F or R or TEAM ver, is better, let me know. like i said i have a ton of used foams to use. i do see all the other elec guys running rubber at my track though.

can on car be turned into the other easily?
ok in my opinion if you want to run foam and switch back to rubber.
you should get the r and a ft top deck run ft topdeck with foam and r topdeck with rubber thats probably the best if you want to use it for both
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Old 05-25-2010, 08:41 PM   #12373
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AE has a deal on the F right now. Go to their web store 275.00+ tax shipped. then order the Exotec chassis and top deck. thats what i did. dont forget the layshaft bearing holders they free up the front belt and lower the gear 1.25mm.
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:22 PM   #12374
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can someone give me a good starting FDR for 17.5 lrp x11 and tekin rs
What firmware are you running on the Tekin? Because when I was v200 with the x11 17.5 I was at 3.5FDR. With v203 with a 17.5 Duo2 I'm at 8.0FDR.
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:44 PM   #12375
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What firmware are you running on the Tekin? Because when I was v200 with the x11 17.5 I was at 3.5FDR. With v203 with a 17.5 Duo2 I'm at 8.0FDR.
wow, what a big difference-i'm using v200-I haven't ran the 17.5 yet so I don't have a current fdr, or temp trends
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