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Old 05-17-2010, 08:29 PM   #12346
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Default things to check for tweak

had a few TC5s and all had the same problem when new but alway got rid of the problem.
a few things I found can bind up the and make the car feel out of tweak.

-make sure the cvds don't touch the inner side of the spool diff. I found this happened with the stock slipper spool. usually space my car out 1mm on the font end.
-check side to side balance
-I used rubber bands on the turnbuckles to the steering knuckles to eliminate the play
-check outdrive bearings
-do not use the include battery strap, if screwed on too tight it will tweak chassis slightly
-make sure shim the spur layshaft correctly, if there is too much play or too tight it will make the car shift during braking or hard acceleration.
-check arm mounts for excessive play they have stretched with a hit.

I always checked this stuff and very seldom got the jerk effect on my previous Tc5s.
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:49 PM   #12347
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Originally Posted by justxroro View Post
anyone have any good tricks to help break loose a screw that seems to have had a lil too much loctite put on it?
Make sure the hex head is clean of debris that would prevent the driver from going all the way into the socket.

If that fails, buy MIP Thorp drivers. They don't come in pretty multicolored aluminum or a nice pouch, but they're solid and well worth it.
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:46 PM   #12348
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side note: anyone have any good tricks to help break loose a screw that seems to have had a lil too much loctite put on it ?
I have always used a heat gun. It's always worked well for me.
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:52 AM   #12349
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Heat gun worked like a charm!!!

Too bad I can't replace the factory team stuff with mip tips... Thanks for the tips nonetheless.
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:42 PM   #12350
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Heat gun worked like a charm!!!

Too bad I can't replace the factory team stuff with mip tips... Thanks for the tips nonetheless.
Your welcome.
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Old 05-21-2010, 05:59 AM   #12351
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Default TC5 X chassis mods

im looking at getting a tc5 and i am seein all these TC5"X" cars. what ae the X mod chassis and parts supposed to do for the car. i will be running out door and probably foam.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:25 AM   #12352
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im looking at getting a tc5 and i am seein all these TC5"X" cars. what ae the X mod chassis and parts supposed to do for the car. i will be running out door and probably foam.
Exotek chassis http://www.exotekracing.com/EXOTEK_N...6/29_TC5X.html for better chassis balance and flex when using lipo batteries and rubber tires.
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:42 AM   #12353
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
-make sure the cvds don't touch the inner side of the spool diff. I found this happened with the stock slipper spool. usually space my car out 1mm on the font end.
Interesting, I wonder if this is how I sporadically break/lose bone blades. Did you do this by placing an equal amount of spacers under the arm mounts the same way that we set toe in the rear? I also noticed one difference I've always had between my car and the setup sheets I find online is that most of those sheets recommend shimming out the front hexes by 1mm which I was never entirely sure how to go about doing.

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-make sure shim the spur layshaft correctly, if there is too much play or too tight it will make the car shift during braking or hard acceleration.
My spur seems shimmed properly, but the pulleys on the layshaft definitely rock back/forth. Is there a solution for this other than replacing the pulleys or gluing them?
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:56 AM   #12354
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Originally Posted by BlueEagle View Post
My spur seems shimmed properly, but the pulleys on the layshaft definitely rock back/forth. Is there a solution for this other than replacing the pulleys or gluing them?
mine did the same thing so i put an o-ring between the spur adapter and pulley and then one more in front of that pulley so the outer pulley squishes up against it and it got rid of all my play. but the biggest problem is that the shaft needs to be re-drilled with bigger holes to fit bigger pins as the stock pins are smaller dia. so the pulley rocks back and forth on it.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:06 PM   #12355
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
Exotek chassis http://www.exotekracing.com/EXOTEK_N...6/29_TC5X.html for better chassis balance and flex when using lipo batteries and rubber tires.
i do want to run lipos, but i have tons of used foams i want to use up, so should i go with the original tc5 or F chassis? i might run inside once out of a season, and thats a maybe, so most of the time it will be on sprayed pavement
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:18 PM   #12356
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i do want to run lipos, but i have tons of used foams i want to use up, so should i go with the original tc5 or F chassis? i might run inside once out of a season, and thats a maybe, so most of the time it will be on sprayed pavement
Don't bother with the original TC5, as it lacks many of the aluminum and chassis upgardes the R and F versions have. The TC5F would be fine if all you run is foam and carpet. However, many drivers just use the R version for both asphalt and carpet. The R and F versions are essentially the same car except the F version has stiffer springs, caster blocks, hard plastic parts, etc.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:57 PM   #12357
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...I also noticed one difference I've always had between my car and the setup sheets I find online is that most of those sheets recommend shimming out the front hexes by 1mm which I was never entirely sure how to go about doing...
This is done by placing a spacer on the axle between the hex and the wheel.
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:15 PM   #12358
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Don't bother with the original TC5, as it lacks many of the aluminum and chassis upgardes the R and F versions have. The TC5F would be fine if all you run is foam and carpet. However, many drivers just use the R version for both asphalt and carpet. The R and F versions are essentially the same car except the F version has stiffer springs, caster blocks, hard plastic parts, etc.
I have the original TC5 that I bought used a while back. Which alluminum parts are updated?


Rick, are you using just normal washers to put on the axles or are you using special hexigon washers? I've been wondering about this myself.
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:20 PM   #12359
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I have the original TC5 that I bought used a while back. Which alluminum parts are updated?


Rick, are you using just normal washers to put on the axles or are you using special hexigon washers? I've been wondering about this myself.
A couple of things the R and F versons have that the original TC5 doesn't have are aluminum diff outdrives and an improved top deck that allows for more flex.

Regarding shimming the front end out, I use tamiya shims. Sorry I don't have part numbers.
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:55 PM   #12360
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Originally Posted by BlueEagle View Post
Interesting, I wonder if this is how I sporadically break/lose bone blades. Did you do this by placing an equal amount of spacers under the arm mounts the same way that we set toe in the rear? I also noticed one difference I've always had between my car and the setup sheets I find online is that most of those sheets recommend shimming out the front hexes by 1mm which I was never entirely sure how to go about doing.



My spur seems shimmed properly, but the pulleys on the layshaft definitely rock back/forth. Is there a solution for this other than replacing the pulleys or gluing them?
i just replace them go thru about 2 sets a year in florida so we run year round
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