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Old 02-12-2010, 08:00 AM   #11941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
I'm having some problems getting the rebound set right on 2 of my TC5r shocks. I changed the weight of the oil and now I can't get 2 of the shocks to rebound evenly. I've got small holes drilled in the caps already. I've never had this problem before.

The procedure I use is as follows:
1) fill the shocks with oil, move pistons up and down to get the air bubbles out. Let sit for a while then top up with oil so that oil is level with the top of the shock.
2) Fit bladder into shock cap (with no foam above).
3) Push shock shaft right into the shock slowly so that the ball stud is flush with the bottom of the shock body. There is very little oil above the shock piston but no air bubbles if done slowly.
4) screw on shock cap and displace oil.

This worked fine for 2 shocks but the other 2 I can't get to not rebound. They don't even rebound at the same rate. This procedure has worked fine for me in the past but for some reason I'm having no end of trouble this time around.

Do I need to drill bigger holes in the caps? I used a really small drill to do it last time but the hole is not blocked by anything.

Any ideas on how I can get these shocks to not rebound or at least to rebound evenly would be great.
In my experience, if you push the piston all the way up into the shock then when you put the bladder on, it does not seat right. Then when you screw the top on tight, you get a varying amount of rebound.

I normally push the shock right up, then back a few millimeters until the bladder does not hit the piston. Then screw the top on slowly.

I never tried with holes in the cap though so someone else may have better info.

Regards

Neal
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:29 AM   #11942
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The best way I have found is to fill the shock and bleed the air then push the piston 3/4 of the way up, thats when I put the bladder in (you have to pinch it a little) then pull the shaft all the way down, this will seat the bladder in the shock. Then just screw on the cap and it should be good to go.
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Old 02-12-2010, 09:14 AM   #11943
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Ok so you put the bladder on the shock first. Seat. Then screw the cap on top the bladder and shock.

What I was doing was putting the bladder into the shock cap first (which didnt seat too well) and then screwed the cap and bladder on the top of the shock at which time the bladder seated in the cap

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 02-12-2010, 01:00 PM   #11944
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Default TC5 setup

I need help world...i just purchased a tc5 and will be running 17.5 with tekin rs and duo2 motor..i need setup help..the track is 70 x 30 carpet..we will be running rubber tire...very technical ..can anyone help me...i do not want the car to break loose in the rear if that is possible..i see alot of cars sliding thru corners but i do not want to do that...can i get some assistance...
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Old 02-13-2010, 04:27 AM   #11945
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As per the instructions a few posts back I redid all 4 shocks in about 15 minutes and got perfect 0 rebound in all. Thanks again for the tips.
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Old 02-13-2010, 01:02 PM   #11946
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Old 02-13-2010, 01:20 PM   #11947
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Default new tc5r

HI,

I am about to get a TC5R I ve looked through some threads and would really like to know more about the servo mod and motor mount mod.

Is the servo just drill a hole in the steering arm to fit a ball stud? DO you use 416 servo mounts?

How many people are using in line motor mounts? I seen a modded std one cut back with new hole in chassis and a totally new one, what are you guys running?? How much as a milled set( Ive not seen a price???)

Is any one in the UK near 1350g with out fnact bits??

cheers,

I'll be posting some of my own information once I get the car on the track
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Old 02-13-2010, 07:29 PM   #11948
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The motor mod is done by installing new rearbulkheads. The move the motor in by 5mm. These are manufactured by an outside source and his email is
[email protected]. Email him and he can tell you the cost plus shipping to where you live. Most are saying that this helps free up the car more and allows more flex in the chassis. I am Testing another type of the same mod, I have cut down the bulkheads on the leftrear and modified the motor mount and used JB weld to hold it all together. I have not had much time lately to try this as we cannot get a break form snow here.
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Old 02-14-2010, 10:08 AM   #11949
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What is the difference between the tc5, tc5f amd tc5r?
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Old 02-14-2010, 11:36 AM   #11950
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Quote:
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What is the difference between the tc5, tc5f amd tc5r?
TC5 - is the original car
TC5R - is for rubber tire
TC5F - is for foam tire

Depending on the tire you use, you'll have to choose the appropriate setup TC5R or TC5F setups
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:40 PM   #11951
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TC5R FOR SALE
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Old 02-14-2010, 04:29 PM   #11952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obi wun View Post
I need help world...i just purchased a tc5 and will be running 17.5 with tekin rs and duo2 motor..i need setup help..the track is 70 x 30 carpet..we will be running rubber tire...very technical ..can anyone help me...i do not want the car to break loose in the rear if that is possible..i see alot of cars sliding thru corners but i do not want to do that...can i get some assistance...
You can look at Associated setup sheets, but here is a setup that works for me:
Ride height 5 front and rear
Shock position 1a in front and 1b in rear
blue springs in front-green in rear 40 wt oil in front 35 in rear
Optional use black sway bar in front
1.5 degrees camber in front 2 degrees in rear, .5 front toe out 3 degree toe in rear
sauce inside of front tires and all of rear.

Steer lightly going into turns as the TC5 has plenty of steering which allows the rear to break loose easier.
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:36 AM   #11953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chongo View Post
TC5 - is the original car
TC5R - is for rubber tire
TC5F - is for foam tire

Depending on the tire you use, you'll have to choose the appropriate setup TC5R or TC5F setups
TC5R has the ITF chassis and blue/silver springs.

TC5F has a thicker chassis and top deck and stiffer springs (i think its red/copper or something. i dont remember).
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Old 02-15-2010, 11:08 AM   #11954
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Default servo mount mod:

Hi, I ve now got in-line bulkheads sorted-

can any one enlightne me on the servo mod, a DIY how to would be great, and is it worth it, what does it do? Is there an easier way to get the same effect?

Another thing I am interested in is the Exotek chassis, I ve ran one on a hot bodies cyclone and it was better, but the cyclone had non-symetrical motor motor mount so I am deciding if its worth it given I'll be using the inline motor mount?

I ve seen on Exoteks web-site they also do a top-deck, any one tried that with std chassis?

cheers,

Mi
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:15 PM   #11955
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im currenty useing the exotek top plate on the itf bottom plate as well as the inline motor mod and im finding the car more predicable that what i did with the normal itf top plate.

the car does have way more flex too.

Ed
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