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Old 02-06-2010, 01:08 PM   #11911
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I will for sure be running timing boost and turbo... I guess the best thing is to have the guys up there help me as they will be programming cause I dont have a PC, I use a mac.
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Old 02-06-2010, 01:22 PM   #11912
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Anyone have a Parma Bumper they would like to sell? I have Paypal waiting.
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Old 02-06-2010, 03:11 PM   #11913
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ditto
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:10 PM   #11914
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I also have decided I should get a spool.. What would be better? the factory team one or the titanium racing one?
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:33 PM   #11915
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The Associated spool is really available and works fine.

This is the one you want,

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVDX2&P=7


The also have a solid version, solid front axles are hard on the front end. The slipper spool gives on impact.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:40 PM   #11916
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ok, how should that be set? or just by the manual? Or is it personal feel again? I am not very good at the feel thing yet.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:44 PM   #11917
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ok, how should that be set? or just by the manual? Or is it personal feel again? I am not very good at the feel thing yet.
As tight as it will go without damaging the nut.
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:26 PM   #11918
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also, another quick question on those RPM rod ends I was asking about a few pages back.. I remember someone saying there was a short and a long version, anyone know a link to where I can buy the short ones? I looked and I cant find anything.
I just get the regular heavy duty 4-40 ones. These will screw onto the stock turnbuckles ok. The longer ones will explicitly say long shank. If they're too long, like in the rear camber links or front camber links, I just trim 1-2mm off the shank with a hobby knife. They're easy enough to cut.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...H=rpm+rod+ends
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:07 PM   #11919
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I had the slipper spool and it lasted for awhile, eventually the bolt wore out and I had to get a new one. I ordered the part and they mistakenly ordered me the solid spool. I put that one in and no problems whatsoever. Ive hit plenty of walls and i run 17 and 13.5 classes (rubber on med bite carpet). Maybe with high traction the slipper spool would be better since it can give a little in an extreme crash but i would highly recommend the solid spool any day.

If you get the RPM rod ends make sure you have clearance between the tires because they can hit the inside of the tire if you have to tall of a ball stud. You may have to trim the tops of them or get lower your ball stud on your chub and rear hubs.
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Old 02-09-2010, 02:34 AM   #11920
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Hi guys,

I have been running a setup which resembles very closely Keven Hebert's setup from IIC, however I have never felt like I have enough rear end grip. Whenever I try to push the car to the limit, the rear end steps out and I lose a ton of time.

I like the setup in general but would prefer to have a little more rear grip so that it is a bit easier to drive at the limit without fearing a spin, you can't drive fast if you don't know what the car will do.

Any suggestions? I have tried laying the shocks in on the rear, a longer rear upper camber link, -1.5 rear camber and varying the rear toe but the problem seems to be deep-rooted.

Any help is appreciated.

Regards

Neal
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:47 AM   #11921
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Hi guys,

I have been running a setup which resembles very closely Keven Hebert's setup from IIC, however I have never felt like I have enough rear end grip. Whenever I try to push the car to the limit, the rear end steps out and I lose a ton of time.

I like the setup in general but would prefer to have a little more rear grip so that it is a bit easier to drive at the limit without fearing a spin, you can't drive fast if you don't know what the car will do.

Any suggestions? I have tried laying the shocks in on the rear, a longer rear upper camber link, -1.5 rear camber and varying the rear toe but the problem seems to be deep-rooted.

Any help is appreciated.

Regards

Neal
I've overcome the same issue, as I started with that setup in late December. I'm sure that the back end would be more planted if you were running on the amount of traction they get at the IIC, which is something you don't get at club races.
After trying a full gambit of different options, I have concluded that the culprit is the amount of droop that setup calls for. The #6 (on droop guage) in rear is around 2.5mm uptravel, which seems close, but the #5 in the front gives you more than 3mm uptravel, which is a lot.
With that setup, I found that once you lean the car over in a sweeper or as you approach the apex, the front end bites into the corner too hard.
Try 6 all around. 5 all around works if the track is green but is too much once you have some traction. Most TC5R setup sheets out there use uptravel designations instead of the droop guage, and they're in the 2mm to 3mm range.

When you're looking to control the amount of roll in the car, be sure to consider both the droop and the roll centres. Keven is running high roll centres 3-dot (more response, less roll) with more droop (less response, more roll). You can get to a similar balance with lower roll centres and running less droop. My preference has been the second option.

Hope that helps,
Pete
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:12 AM   #11922
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I've overcome the same issue, as I started with that setup in late December. I'm sure that the back end would be more planted if you were running on the amount of traction they get at the IIC, which is something you don't get at club races.
After trying a full gambit of different options, I have concluded that the culprit is the amount of droop that setup calls for. The #6 (on droop guage) in rear is around 2.5mm uptravel, which seems close, but the #5 in the front gives you more than 3mm uptravel, which is a lot.
With that setup, I found that once you lean the car over in a sweeper or as you approach the apex, the front end bites into the corner too hard.
Try 6 all around. 5 all around works if the track is green but is too much once you have some traction. Most TC5R setup sheets out there use uptravel designations instead of the droop guage, and they're in the 2mm to 3mm range.

When you're looking to control the amount of roll in the car, be sure to consider both the droop and the roll centres. Keven is running high roll centres 3-dot (more response, less roll) with more droop (less response, more roll). You can get to a similar balance with lower roll centres and running less droop. My preference has been the second option.

Hope that helps,
Pete
Thanks Pete, good tip. I have to admit I am still not sure exactly how to tune droop to improve handling so I will give your suggestion a try. It is true though that the problem is less severe the higher the grip comes during a race day. It is hard to test all possible settings when I only race carpet once a month but I will have a play with the droop next meeting.

Thanks

Neal
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:35 AM   #11923
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I also have decided I should get a spool.. What would be better? the factory team one or the titanium racing one?
you can purchase it here (cheaper)...
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=578

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ok, how should that be set? or just by the manual? Or is it personal feel again? I am not very good at the feel thing yet.
dont forget to purchase the B4/T4 diff nut. it holds better than the stock pieces.
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Old 02-09-2010, 10:24 PM   #11924
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C-Money - I sent you a pm regarding the parma bumper.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:33 AM   #11925
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Hey Guys

Im new to the TC5 and i just order one. I am having trouble finding bodies for it. Can you recommend some bodies and sizes?

Thanks Erik
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