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Old 01-18-2010, 04:22 PM   #11761
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Rick,

Although downstops and droop are the same thing, it's completely different (still get it

I understand the difference in terms, downstops are adjusted with the downstops, How is the droop adjusted?


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Old 01-18-2010, 05:25 PM   #11762
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Rick,

Although downstops and droop are the same thing, it's completely different (still get it

I understand the difference in terms, downstops are adjusted with the downstops, How is the droop adjusted?


M2
through downstop where you need to adjust according to ride height
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Old 01-18-2010, 05:47 PM   #11763
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using those wont require shorter turnbuckles or anything?
If you're referring to the RPM heavy duty ball ends on the TC5 you have to cut them a bit. A sharp hobby knife does the trick. I'm running them on all stock turnbuckles with no issues after trimming abit.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:07 PM   #11764
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Just got a tc5r, any recommended upgrades? I will be running 13.5 and rc gt sometimes.
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:34 PM   #11765
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If you're referring to the RPM heavy duty ball ends on the TC5 you have to cut them a bit. A sharp hobby knife does the trick. I'm running them on all stock turnbuckles with no issues after trimming abit.
Do you have any heavy duty black ones you could recommend?
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Old 01-18-2010, 06:38 PM   #11766
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Do you have any heavy duty black ones you could recommend?
RPM makes black, blue, purple, white, yellow....

I don't think they make purple anymore tho...
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:09 PM   #11767
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94/47 64p
thank you i will go look for the gears don
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:20 PM   #11768
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thank you i will go look for the gears don
No problem, I like the PRS gears myself and I know they make that combo.

http://www.precisionracingsystems.com
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:37 PM   #11769
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If you're referring to the RPM heavy duty ball ends on the TC5 you have to cut them a bit. A sharp hobby knife does the trick. I'm running them on all stock turnbuckles with no issues after trimming abit.

About how much should they be trimmed?
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:03 PM   #11770
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About how much should they be trimmed?
I did not have to trim the ones I put on mine at all... RPM makes a long shank and short shank, be sure you get the short ones.
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Old 01-19-2010, 12:10 AM   #11771
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Originally Posted by M2Racing View Post
Rick,

Although downstops and droop are the same thing, it's completely different (still get it

I understand the difference in terms, downstops are adjusted with the downstops, How is the droop adjusted?


M2
In fact adjusting the downstops is the same as adjusting the droop. Here a step by step way to adjust your downstops/droop:

1. Check and adjust your right height (left and right, not in the center). Than detach shocks and anti-roll bar. Remove the wheels
2. Tap on the top of the upright/c-hub. This is to make sure the suspension is in it's lowest position.
3. Use the droop gauge to see how much mm the arm is above the chassis. I personally recommend the Hudy droop gauge set, because it works a lot easier when you can just put the car on the support blocks.
4. The number of mm's is the downstop value. This is what most people mean when talking about their droop. Measure this very carefully, just half a millimeter can make a world of difference.
5. By turning the screw in (clock wise) you will increase your downstop value. By turning the screw out (counter clock wise) you will decrease your downstop value. Change your downstop value to the desired amount.
6.When done check if the left and right are the exact same value.

7. Re-attach your shocks, rollbars and wheels. Use a screw driver or anything similar and make a lever with the edge of the table. Put the end of the screwdriver in a tiny hole almost completely in front (or rear) most cars have such a hole. If not, use a small string and put it around the center of your shocktower, than you can lift it from there.

8. Slighty lift the car, and check if the wheels come loose at the same time. When they do, you're done. When they don't, it's up to step 9.

9. Slightly turn the ring on your shock (the one you normally use for your ride height). make sure left and right are equal. After this check your ride height and downstops again. When ride height, downstop value, droop and the height of the rings can't be all set equal left to right. You've got yourself a problem, it means that either:

- Your car is completely unbalanced left to right (weight distribution)
- Your car is tweaked (so check the car for tweak and your chassis whether it's bent or not)
- You're just not good at this

Extra reminder for people using foam tires. Because foam tires get smaller after every run, you should check your downstops,droop and ride height after every heat.

---

Why is droop so important? It's the amount of travel your chassis has before you're wheels lift from the ground.

This is (a summary) of what droop does to the car:

More droop front (lower downstop value):
- When going on throttle the car can travel upward more.
- Less steering on high speed
- Better for bumpy tracks

Less droop front (higher downstop value):
- When going on throttle the car can travel upward less.
- More steering on high speed
- Better on smooth tracks

More droop rear (lower downstop value):
- When braking or off-throttle the car has more upward travel.
- More steering in slow corners
- Better on bumpy tracks

Less droop rear (higher downstop value):
- When braking or off-throttle the car has less upward travel.
- Less steering in slow corners
- Better on smooth tracks

When you want more information on it has that effect on the car. Just ask and I'll explain. But it's too long of a story to be writing down when nobody is interested
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Old 01-19-2010, 01:44 AM   #11772
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Nice info Rick, I was always a little uncertain about the actual effects of droop, I might start playing with it more.

Also for those looking at buying new ballcups, the long RPM ones are too long, not much but it makes some camber settings hard or impossible.

I recommend you buy the stock associated cups and drill a 2.5mm hole in the top so that you can fit you allan driver through. Then attach the ball once and just remove the ballstud if you want to change something. This way you ballcups dont pick up more and more slop every time you remove one.

Thanks to the guy who showed me this tip, it's subtle but actually a nice upgrade.

Regards

Neal
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Old 01-19-2010, 04:05 AM   #11773
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Originally Posted by C_Money View Post
About how much should they be trimmed?
Just a mm or 2 off the shank on some of them. I'm not sure if I have the long shank ones or not. I had to shave down the ball cup edges of the ones on my servo saver as well as they were binding a bit on each other at first.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:47 PM   #11774
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Thanks! Rick
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Old 01-19-2010, 03:24 PM   #11775
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Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
Nice info Rick, I was always a little uncertain about the actual effects of droop, I might start playing with it more.

Also for those looking at buying new ballcups, the long RPM ones are too long, not much but it makes some camber settings hard or impossible.

I recommend you buy the stock associated cups and drill a 2.5mm hole in the top so that you can fit you allan driver through. Then attach the ball once and just remove the ballstud if you want to change something. This way you ballcups dont pick up more and more slop every time you remove one.

Thanks to the guy who showed me this tip, it's subtle but actually a nice upgrade.

Regards

Neal
or if you dont want to drill out each ball cup on your car you can buy these


http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSA6017
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