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Old 12-13-2009, 07:45 PM   #11536
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I have the ability to get a TC5R, but should I? I currently club race a TC4 and a TB03 Tamiya. I want to step up. Are the newer cars from Xray or any of the other manufacturers more advanced out of the box? If so which one?

Thanks
Jim
The TC4 is a great car and depending on what your wanting to race it may be all you need. If you are racing stock classes then a shaft car is fine as you won't have a problem with the torque steer. If you wish to run mod then an upgrade to a belt car is a good idea.

As far as choosing between Associated and Xray... The quality of Xray is undeniable they are beautiful cars, the nice thing about associated is parts are readily available and dirt cheap. I own both and will say you can't really go wrong with either brand, tho both have pros and cons.
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:15 PM   #11537
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Originally Posted by authorjim View Post
I have the ability to get a TC5R, but should I? I currently club race a TC4 and a TB03 Tamiya. I want to step up. Are the newer cars from Xray or any of the other manufacturers more advanced out of the box? If so which one?

Thanks
Jim
The TC5 is around 3years old? I'd hope the new xray would be more advanced
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:36 PM   #11538
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Originally Posted by authorjim View Post
I have the ability to get a TC5R, but should I? I currently club race a TC4 and a TB03 Tamiya. I want to step up. Are the newer cars from Xray or any of the other manufacturers more advanced out of the box? If so which one?

Thanks
Jim
I've found the TC5 to be a much nicer car to drive (once setup) compared to the FTTC4, but the TC4 is still a very capable car. The internal ratio of the TC4 is the main reason why I went to the TC5 as I can actually gear for 17.5 on a very large with the 5.
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Old 12-14-2009, 02:39 AM   #11539
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Thumbs up New lipo tray (home made ;) )

This is my new lipo tray for tc5.

With GM lipo moved to right side and heavy GM 95 ESC (yes,
lrp is LIGHT but burn too often) my car is almost perfect balanced L/R,
need 5g on accu side, this will be done by gold to deans connector.



More pics:
http://abram.eu.org/files/tc5_new_lipo_tray/

PDF file:
http://abram.eu.org/files/tc5_new_lipo_tray/try.pdf

Lipo tray is moved about 2.5mm from carbon chassis, it hold better accu.

I've done holes for screws when tray was perfect cut for LIPO and lipo was
in good place in the chassis, holes on pics are only for example, they almost
fit

Will try it with 13.5T engine at January

Before this tray, I have modification. I just move outside oryginal
asso accu mount (new holes) and my lipo was moved outside, and that
was very nice but sometimes I lost on track lipo, maybe with this mod,
it will be better



Regards!
m.

ps: btw, we can move up oryginal asso lipo try, like 2-3mm and it is for me better, but lipo pack is too much inside and I must add some weight,
and still go over 1400g when on ETS 1350g is allowed
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:12 AM   #11540
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Damm! That lipo tray is ugly!
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:21 AM   #11541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
This is my new lipo tray for tc5.

With GM lipo moved to right side and heavy GM 95 ESC (yes,
lrp is LIGHT but burn too often) my car is almost perfect balanced L/R,
need 5g on accu side, this will be done by gold to deans connector.



More pics:
http://abram.eu.org/files/tc5_new_lipo_tray/

PDF file:
http://abram.eu.org/files/tc5_new_lipo_tray/try.pdf

Lipo tray is moved about 2.5mm from carbon chassis, it hold better accu.

I've done holes for screws when tray was perfect cut for LIPO and lipo was
in good place in the chassis, holes on pics are only for example, they almost
fit

Will try it with 13.5T engine at January

Before this tray, I have modification. I just move outside oryginal
asso accu mount (new holes) and my lipo was moved outside, and that
was very nice but sometimes I lost on track lipo, maybe with this mod,
it will be better



Regards!
m.

ps: btw, we can move up oryginal asso lipo try, like 2-3mm and it is for me better, but lipo pack is too much inside and I must add some weight,
and still go over 1400g when on ETS 1350g is allowed
Nice work there, looks good, very similar to the recently released associated tray. I had to get a new tray recently, was going to get the associated one but it is not offset as far as I can tell, so not so good for L/R balance at 1350, went with another diggity designs.

What did you make the tray from? A friend of mine tried to make one from clear plastic sheet, didn't go so well.

Regards

Neal
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:37 AM   #11542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CL View Post
Damm! That lipo tray is ugly!

Hi CL

Try do it better :P

Hi Redwood

It is made from fiberglass material 2mm. Bottom parts is from ~2.5mm. When it will be OK I try do it from carbon.

In my case problem is in weight on motor side. I have heavy GM ESC and I need to push battery more on right side. With ASSO lipo tray I can't do it,
however I have 2nd holes for oryginal plastic asso battery strap, but it is still
wrong.

As I wrote, I try drive on asso battery strap, when accu was taped to carbon bar and don't touch chassis, that was OK but have problem
sometimes lost accu on track

:-)

Regards!
m.
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Old 12-14-2009, 11:06 AM   #11543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
.

What did you make the tray from? A friend of mine tried to make one from clear plastic sheet, didn't go so well.

Regards

Neal
The material he used looks like G-10 fiberglass, to be specific...Companies use to make complete chassis from G-10 back in the day
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Old 12-14-2009, 11:45 AM   #11544
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This is prolly a real rookie question but.... How do i get the seal retainer and oring out of the bottom of the shock body?

I have never rebuilt AE shocks before
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:11 PM   #11545
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This is prolly a real rookie question but.... How do i get the seal retainer and oring out of the bottom of the shock body?

I have never rebuilt AE shocks before
If they are in right and not leaking then there is no need as far as I can see.

If I wanted to get it out, I would remove the shaft then use the plastic shock tool you get with the kit and poke it up through the bottom at a slight angle, should come right out.

Regards

Neal
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:16 PM   #11546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi CL

Try do it better :P

m.
Hahhahahahaha

AE made a very similiar piece but from carbon fiber (part # ASC31257).
Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC5-asc31257.jpg  
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:20 PM   #11547
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Originally Posted by CL View Post
Hahhahahahaha

AE made a very similiar piece but from carbon fiber (part # ASC31257).
Yes, I have this one, is very OK, when I drill new holes for my LIFE pack 4600
but is BAD for my LIPOZ. I must put about 50-60g on accu side, and
my weight go over 1400g when my limit is 1350g.



Regards!
m.
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:34 PM   #11548
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So on a small tight ozite track (55X36) with 17.5 power on jaco rubber, where traction is low to medium, is the one-way (currently on it) the choice or would a spool be quicker?
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:47 PM   #11549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i1justin View Post
So on a small tight ozite track (55X36) with 17.5 power on jaco rubber, where traction is low to medium, is the one-way (currently on it) the choice or would a spool be quicker?
Tighter track a spool is usually the way to go, one ways are good for longer flowing layouts.
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Old 12-14-2009, 03:48 PM   #11550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i1justin View Post
So on a small tight ozite track (55X36) with 17.5 power on jaco rubber, where traction is low to medium, is the one-way (currently on it) the choice or would a spool be quicker?
The down side of a one-way is brakes, it will turn in like a diff and accelerate out like a spool, so if braking is minimal than I would stick with that.

If it is really tight then try a diff even, but it will also depend on your driving style, a spool likes aggressive driving and a diff is faster with smoooooth driving.

Regards

Neal
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