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Old 11-08-2009, 08:34 AM   #11326
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Hi!

What zero rebound give to you? What was wrong when you have some rebound before drill hole in shock cap?

Regards!
m.
When building shocks, you usually do not want any rebound as this adds another variable into your suspension equation. If you keep your shocks at zero rebound, it's easier to tune your car because you have at least one constant in the equation. Any rebound in the suspension should be from a combination of the spring rate, shock piston, and shock oil and not from rebound within the shock due to air bubbles or too much oil. The bleeder hole drilled into the top of the shock cap helps to relieve the unwanted rebound.
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:37 AM   #11327
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Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
Stock up on extra diff bolts/nuts. Associated part # 6575. Around $2.90 or less at most places.
Put the diff spring in a vice grip or some sort of clamp for 1-2 hours to reduce the tension in it. It makes doing up the diffs a lot easier.
When putting the stock nylock diff nut in the plastic T piece make sure its fully seated at the bottom before trying to do up the bolt. Tap the nut in place with another tool first to fully seat it.
Be really careful tightening this bolt/nut combo. They strip super easily so it's good to have a couple spares on hand. Associated part # 6575 comes with the nut seated in the T piece already.

Other than the diff the car goes together really easily. I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks. Theres a molded area on the cap that looks like this was planned but not done for some reason. Shocks work ok with just the bladder minus the foam pieces.

+1

That's pretty much it. Also, if you plan to race on asphalt, use the top deck option screws/o-rings on the rear four screws of your top deck. This will give you a little more chassis flex.
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:48 AM   #11328
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
When building shocks, you usually do not want any rebound as this adds another variable into your suspension equation.

Nice tip, I will try it

Regards!
m.
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:59 AM   #11329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
Stock up on extra diff bolts/nuts. Associated part # 6575. Around $2.90 or less at most places.
Put the diff spring in a vice grip or some sort of clamp for 1-2 hours to reduce the tension in it. It makes doing up the diffs a lot easier.
When putting the stock nylock diff nut in the plastic T piece make sure its fully seated at the bottom before trying to do up the bolt. Tap the nut in place with another tool first to fully seat it.
Be really careful tightening this bolt/nut combo. They strip super easily so it's good to have a couple spares on hand. Associated part # 6575 comes with the nut seated in the T piece already.

Other than the diff the car goes together really easily. I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks. Theres a molded area on the cap that looks like this was planned but not done for some reason. Shocks work ok with just the bladder minus the foam pieces.
Thnaks alot for the tips.

Also, was reading the directions and it was recommended that you file the battery slots, any kind of file is ok, or a specific one/number.

I dont have an Lipo's yet, just battery packs and i remember from the past that the carbon will cut into the batteries.
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:09 AM   #11330
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hey guys which pistons are the same as losi #56. is it #2 or #3 thanx
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:50 AM   #11331
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hey guys which pistons are the same as losi #56. is it #2 or #3 thanx
neither, the Losi #56 and #57 are 3-hole pistons.
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:35 PM   #11332
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hey guys which pistons are the same as losi #56. is it #2 or #3 thanx
#2 is pretty close in total valve area. As it was stated before, AE is a 2 hole, Losi a 3 hole.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:47 PM   #11333
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#2 is pretty close in total valve area. As it was stated before, AE is a 2 hole, Losi a 3 hole.
i know i have losi 57 in my car. i guess what i meant was which ones would give same feel as 56. on hebert iic setup it says 3x56 does that mean he used a losi 56 or did he drill the new blank pistons from associated. thanx again
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:51 PM   #11334
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i know i have losi 57 in my car. i guess what i meant was which ones would give same feel as 56. on hebert iic setup it says 3x56 does that mean he used a losi 56 or did he drill the new blank pistons from associated. thanx again
Pretty sure Keven used the losi pistons in Vegas.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:55 PM   #11335
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Pretty sure Keven used the losi pistons in Vegas.
thanx josh
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Old 11-08-2009, 04:25 PM   #11336
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do you guys have any tips to help get the car to transition faster? im currently running on high bite asphalt.
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:39 PM   #11337
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Default Problem with Shocks...

Just starting building my shocks tonight and I think I ran into a problem.

I am about to insert the shock shaft into the shock body but it does not seem to fit. It seems the seal retainer is to big unless I really force the seal retainer in the shock body.

Is this normal? I have attached a picture of the set-up.

Thanks in advance.
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Team Associated TC5-piston.jpg  
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:43 PM   #11338
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Originally Posted by wolfeman09 View Post
Just starting building my shocks tonight and I think I ran into a problem.

I am about to insert the shock shaft into the shock body but it does not seem to fit. It seems the seal retainer is to big unless I really force the seal retainer in the shock body.

Is this normal? I have attached a picture of the set-up.

Thanks in advance.
Its normal. Its a really snug fit. There is a tool in the kit you can use instead of using the shock shaft/piston to start. Makes it a little easier to get in.
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:50 PM   #11339
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Are people swapping out the belts to so called "low friction" variants?. I saw on Keven Hebert's TC5 from the IIC that he ran normal TC5 belts. Are "low friction" belts necassary, or people even cutting the teeth on the belts?
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:49 PM   #11340
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Are people swapping out the belts to so called "low friction" variants?. I saw on Keven Hebert's TC5 from the IIC that he ran normal TC5 belts. Are "low friction" belts necassary, or people even cutting the teeth on the belts?
I used the Exotek lower layshaft and what some people do is cut the every other teeth on the pulley to free it up. I soaked my belts to wd-40 for 4 days before installing it.
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