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Old 11-05-2009, 02:38 AM   #11311
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Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
By the sounds of it, it is probably droop. The TC5 comes with a droop gauge, but no blocks. I use a book, and sit the chassis on the right number of pages to match the droop gauge. Very primitive solution but it works.

While you are at it, unscrew all the bulkhead and topdeck screws, dont remove them, just loosen them. Then re-tighten them, that should remove the owrst of the chassis tweak if there is any, which can cause your car to not drive straight.

Regards

Neal
They were different on both sides and front and rear. It seemed to help, thanks for the sugestion.

I have been told in the past when you retighten the chassis screws to cris cross when you tighten them like torking an engine head or intake and to do it in small incramints or don't crank them down right away untill they are all seated snugly in the holes then torque them down all the way.
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Old 11-05-2009, 06:10 AM   #11312
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No need to criss cross when tightning as non of the parts are joined together, when doing the bulkheads I always tighten the middle screw until it just starts to pinch then the outside 2 the same, then fully tighten them.

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Old 11-05-2009, 05:38 PM   #11313
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Originally Posted by twelvegauge View Post
They were different on both sides and front and rear. It seemed to help, thanks for the sugestion.

I have been told in the past when you retighten the chassis screws to cris cross when you tighten them like torking an engine head or intake and to do it in small incramints or don't crank them down right away untill they are all seated snugly in the holes then torque them down all the way.
your exactly right start in the middle and work your way out alternating left to right
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Old 11-05-2009, 05:43 PM   #11314
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Originally Posted by Scottmisfits View Post
I don't use the droop gauge either. I use a down travel measurement. I set my ride height and then set the down travel.

Let's say I have a 5mm ride height and want 2mm of down travel. I use two ride height gauges and block the chassis up at 7mm (5mm+2mm). Now I adjust the droop screws until the tires "just" touch the set up board.
i use setup board and integy ride height/droop gauge set the car flat on the board then i go 5mm in the front 3mm in rear so after you put the tires back on you have a droop of 10mm or 5mm above ride height in the front and 8mm or 3mm above ride height in the rear
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:06 AM   #11315
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Thumbs up Haloween Classic

Well done Mr Herbert.
Any set up sheets most welcome!
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Old 11-07-2009, 03:28 PM   #11316
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Originally Posted by getpip View Post
Well done Mr Herbert.
Any set up sheets most welcome!
congratulations on your win kevin by the way where did you get the cool black setup boards you guys were using.
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:27 PM   #11317
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Default Buidling Tips...

Hey all, just picked up the TC5R this afternoon after about a 6 year absence from the RC scene.

Anyways, any tips to start with on building this car?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:43 PM   #11318
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Default TC5

http://redirectingat.com/?id=42X1295...90576640_o.jpg

Holy spur gear batman!
How many teeth?
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Old 11-07-2009, 06:36 PM   #11319
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looks like 48p?

But what's with the white diff, does it do anything beside make me ask questions?
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:30 PM   #11320
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Just to be sure, the 1B arm mounts will put the arm Higher than 3A correct?
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Old 11-08-2009, 01:21 AM   #11321
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http://redirectingat.com/?id=42X1295...90576640_o.jpg

Holy spur gear batman!
How many teeth?
I'd would say that it's around 90 teeth 48p.


I don't know how but I've somehow managed to find a setup to works on low traction rubber/ashphalt while trying to get a setup for med traction rubber/ashphalt. But hey I'm not complaining.
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:07 AM   #11322
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Originally Posted by Scooter79rs View Post
I'd would say that it's around 90 teeth 48p.


I don't know how but I've somehow managed to find a setup to works on low traction rubber/ashphalt while trying to get a setup for med traction rubber/ashphalt. But hey I'm not complaining.
hey sometimes the best setups are found on accident
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:25 AM   #11323
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Originally Posted by Scooter79rs View Post
I'd would say that it's around 90 teeth 48p.


I don't know how but I've somehow managed to find a setup to works on low traction rubber/ashphalt while trying to get a setup for med traction rubber/ashphalt. But hey I'm not complaining.
Mind sharing that low traction rubber/asphalt setup? I've been after one myself. Slowly getting there but the car is still looser than I'd like.
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Old 11-08-2009, 07:36 AM   #11324
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Originally Posted by wolfeman09 View Post
Hey all, just picked up the TC5R this afternoon after about a 6 year absence from the RC scene.

Anyways, any tips to start with on building this car?

Thanks in advance.
Stock up on extra diff bolts/nuts. Associated part # 6575. Around $2.90 or less at most places.
Put the diff spring in a vice grip or some sort of clamp for 1-2 hours to reduce the tension in it. It makes doing up the diffs a lot easier.
When putting the stock nylock diff nut in the plastic T piece make sure its fully seated at the bottom before trying to do up the bolt. Tap the nut in place with another tool first to fully seat it.
Be really careful tightening this bolt/nut combo. They strip super easily so it's good to have a couple spares on hand. Associated part # 6575 comes with the nut seated in the T piece already.

Other than the diff the car goes together really easily. I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks. Theres a molded area on the cap that looks like this was planned but not done for some reason. Shocks work ok with just the bladder minus the foam pieces.
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:21 AM   #11325
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Originally Posted by spongerX View Post
I found drilling the shock caps with a really small drill bit helped me get zero rebound on the shocks.
Hi!

What zero rebound give to you? What was wrong when you have some rebound before drill hole in shock cap?

Regards!
m.
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