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Old 10-31-2009, 04:55 AM   #11281
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Originally Posted by AndysD8 View Post
I'm still new to the on road scene and grew tired of having to order cyclone parts when there is plenty of associated parts on the wall of my lhs. I've got a tc5r in route to me and was curious as to what lipos will fit with no mods. Or is it better to go with one of the lipo trays that I've seen. I think I saw somewhere that exotek, associated both have one. Amy recommendations? I've been running the protek 3800 30c lipo in my cyclone with no issues and no mods so I probably won't go much larger then a 3800. Will it fit without any mods? Is the tray more of a balance issue? One more thing, are there any must upgrade parts? Thanks!
You'll need a lipo tray. The tray will help keep the lipo in place and prevent it from sliding around. I have the Diggity Designs lipo tray and it works great. There are others such as the Corally/Specialized RC, which I haven't tried. I believe the Associated lipo tray hasn't been released yet. I'm currently running the SMC 5200mah 50C and it fits. The Diggity Designs tray is offset, so you can position the battery inward or outward to achieve the correct balance. The only other "must have" upgrade is the Associated Stealth Diff Nut for the front spool and rear diff. The stock diff nut and nut carrier is too weak.
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:32 AM   #11282
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You'll need a lipo tray. The tray will help keep the lipo in place and prevent it from sliding around. I have the Diggity Designs lipo tray and it works great. There are others such as the Corally/Specialized RC, which I haven't tried. I believe the Associated lipo tray hasn't been released yet. I'm currently running the SMC 5200mah 50C and it fits. The Diggity Designs tray is offset, so you can position the battery inward or outward to achieve the correct balance. The only other "must have" upgrade is the Associated Stealth Diff Nut for the front spool and rear diff. The stock diff nut and nut carrier is too weak.
Do you have a part number for that stealth diff nut??
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Old 10-31-2009, 06:24 PM   #11283
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Do you have a part number for that stealth diff nut??
ASC6575


https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...=ns&pn=ASC6575
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Old 10-31-2009, 07:48 PM   #11284
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I believe the Associated lipo tray hasn't been released yet.
Actually it has been released. Many of us are running them.

http://67.199.85.166/main/productdet...&category=NULL

Good luck!
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Old 10-31-2009, 09:47 PM   #11285
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just ordered one of those try... in this way i dont have to keep taping my ppd lipo weight on the side of my lipo...
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:50 PM   #11286
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How can I tighten my ball diffs more? The screw is at the edge of snapping
but I want to make it more tighter.
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:07 PM   #11287
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As others have suggested you can use a longer screw from other MFGs, but why would you need to run such a tight diff? Are you trying to get rid of slipping? If you build them correctly you can run them very free and not have them slip.
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:12 PM   #11288
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Congrats to Keven Hebert on winning Super Stock rubber with his TC5 this weekend at the Halloween Classic. Car looked great all weekend.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:02 PM   #11289
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As others have suggested you can use a longer screw from other MFGs, but why would you need to run such a tight diff? Are you trying to get rid of slipping? If you build them correctly you can run them very free and not have them slip.
My diffs were built correctly. I run on slippery and dusty surface. And in my
experience, running a medium-tight ball diffs helps me accelerate better.
I now use a long diff nut and screws from Tamiya and Yokomo diff balls.
My TC4 diffs can be really tight if I turn the screw more. Why cant I achieve
this in my TC5R? Im also using composite diffs.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:03 PM   #11290
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Congrats to Keven Hebert on winning Super Stock rubber with his TC5 this weekend at the Halloween Classic. Car looked great all weekend.
Did he use the same set-up as he did at the IIC?
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:31 AM   #11291
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Originally Posted by Airflow View Post
My diffs were built correctly. I run on slippery and dusty surface. And in my
experience, running a medium-tight ball diffs helps me accelerate better.
I now use a long diff nut and screws from Tamiya and Yokomo diff balls.
My TC4 diffs can be really tight if I turn the screw more. Why cant I achieve
this in my TC5R? Im also using composite diffs.
What are the part #s of the longer diff screws that you've found to work?

The stock ones have got to be the most frustrating things I've ever worked with on an RC car. With no RC shops within thousands of miles of me makes it even more annoying.
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Old 11-03-2009, 04:24 AM   #11292
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What are the part #s of the longer diff screws that you've found to work?

The stock ones have got to be the most frustrating things I've ever worked with on an RC car. With no RC shops within thousands of miles of me makes it even more annoying.
Fully compress the diff spring for an hour or 2,with a vice grip or what ever to hold it in place.. and then building the diff will be much more easier!
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:36 AM   #11293
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looking for a 40t diff pulley

please lmk what u have thanks!
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:46 AM   #11294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airflow View Post
My diffs were built correctly. I run on slippery and dusty surface. And in my
experience, running a medium-tight ball diffs helps me accelerate better.
I now use a long diff nut and screws from Tamiya and Yokomo diff balls.
My TC4 diffs can be really tight if I turn the screw more. Why cant I achieve
this in my TC5R? Im also using composite diffs.
You may want to try the slipper spool in the front instead of a diff. You wont get any more drive than with a spool...

What yokomo diff balls are you using? Because the stock ones are not metric, they are 3/32". That may be causing you some issues..
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:11 PM   #11295
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Originally Posted by kriiiss View Post
looking for a 40t diff pulley

please lmk what u have thanks!
tc5 pulleys are 40t
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