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Old 10-29-2009, 05:02 AM   #11266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Found this in internet

Pics from blog:
http://jdracing.blogs.se/2007/5/

Juho's car:
http://data4.blog.de/media/895/1472895_7b1d8c2bca_l.jpg
http://data4.blog.de/media/896/1472896_9290576640_o.jpg

Look to the Craig’s car:
http://data1.blog.de/media/003/1424003_7e7a917c26_o.jpg

Hm, which one steering linkage was better ??? Anybody know?



Regars!
m

Not sure which steering linkage was better, but I believe this is rather old. Juho's car isn't set up like that anymore.
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:25 AM   #11267
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Originally Posted by MoonTrap View Post
Is anyone changing out the steel axles/dogbones for lighter ones?, has anyone noticed it being faster to use lightweight / aluminum dogbones and axles from other manufacturers, have you noticed it being faster due to less rotating mass?
A couple things...

Firstly, like volume to like volume, titanium is significantly heavier than aluminum which is the material on the far-and-away bigger part of the CVD. Like about half again heavier. If you require proof of this put a similar size Ti screw and Al screw on a scale. Now if they "pare" down the titanium it will be similar weight, but then you've given up the strength advantage.

Replacing the outboard steel portion of the CVD with Ti would net something like a 20% reduction in weight (from a part that, on it's own, isn't particularly heavy) but as some are noticing Ti is usually (depending on alloy) somewhat more brittle than steel. Compound problem if threads are cut rather than rolled.

Finally, things like CV axles and driveshafts are where you'll see the LEAST benefit of lightening rotating mass because all the mass is very close to the axis of rotation--you're not "swinging" anything.
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:44 AM   #11268
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The Ti CVD/CVAs are the entire pieces through the axle. It is less than half the weight of the steel. Does anyone make an aluminum bone for the TC5? Might be OK for their rear of the car.
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Old 10-29-2009, 05:59 AM   #11269
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The tir cvds are aluminum not titanium
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:01 AM   #11270
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Originally Posted by bfong13 View Post
Not sure which steering linkage was better, but I believe this is rather old. Juho's car isn't set up like that anymore.
These are Old pics from 2007.
Craig (Drescher) used current production parts.

Juho has "prototype" parts maid with TC4 parts (Shaft, steering hubs).
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Old 10-29-2009, 06:22 AM   #11271
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
The Ti CVD/CVAs are the entire pieces through the axle. It is less than half the weight of the steel. Does anyone make an aluminum bone for the TC5? Might be OK for their rear of the car.
In which case they've taken a weaker material and made the part weaker yet by removing material...it doesn't surprise me that people experience breakage. The ONLY way to get the part "less than half" is to have less material. Like volume for like volume, irrespective of alloying for either, the Ti piece should weigh approx. 20% less than a steel part.

And the fact remains that the rotational mass effect is virtually nil. You likely see a reduction in unsprung weight, particularly the mass out at the end, but unless your last name is Blackstock or Baker I'd be surprised if you could show me a difference on the clock...where it counts.
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:08 AM   #11272
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No disagreement. They are hallow so it is less material. Im talking about Ti Racing not Titanium the material.
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:17 PM   #11273
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Originally Posted by Ralph Walters View Post
Got my spur gear hub from them and I must say the machining on this is top notch. I've also heard that there will be more to come from them for our TC5.
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Old 10-30-2009, 02:08 AM   #11274
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Guy's

I'm looking for the Losi LCD Dual Joint Drive Shafts.
I've been searching thru the JXS Manual and could find these parts.
Are these the parts the switch to dual joint axels or did I forget something:

A9757 C-Hubs / Hubs
A1233 C-hub bus / Kogels
A3333 LCD Drive Shaft's
A6365 Bearing Bus
A6916 Bearings
A6916 Bearings

Thanks

Best Regards

Robert
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:53 AM   #11275
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I'm new to the whole TC thing and I need a little help. I've searched and can't find a constant answer to this question: What is a good starting FDR point with a 17.5 on a sweeping carpet track with the longest straight being only 50ft.? I'm gonna use 48p. Spur/pinion combo? Will RRP machined spurs fit? I know the spur hub uses 3 screws so I'm not sure and I don't have the car in my hands yet so I can't check myself. We run pre-mounts and need some input on what to get there too. We're just starting this class so it's not like I can ask anyone local. Thanks guys
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:55 AM   #11276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Guy's

I'm looking for the Losi LCD Dual Joint Drive Shafts.
I've been searching thru the JXS Manual and could find these parts.
Are these the parts the switch to dual joint axels or did I forget something:

A9757 C-Hubs / Hubs
A1233 C-hub bus / Kogels
A3333 LCD Drive Shaft's
A6365 Bearing Bus
A6916 Bearings
A6916 Bearings

Thanks

Best Regards

Robert
You'll also need the Losi hex's, and possibly the crush tube that goes between the bearings in the steering block.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:07 AM   #11277
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Get the tir tc5 stealth cvds they have the same angles as the lcds
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:32 AM   #11278
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I'm new to the whole TC thing and I need a little help. I've searched and can't find a constant answer to this question: What is a good starting FDR point with a 17.5 on a sweeping carpet track with the longest straight being only 50ft.? I'm gonna use 48p. Spur/pinion combo? Will RRP machined spurs fit? I know the spur hub uses 3 screws so I'm not sure and I don't have the car in my hands yet so I can't check myself. We run pre-mounts and need some input on what to get there too. We're just starting this class so it's not like I can ask anyone local. Thanks guys
I would start at around 4.5 and add teath depending on temps after your run. Hard to give solid numbers these days with all the various speedo options, timing etc.

As for spurs, I know that RW racing, associated and Kimbrough spurs all work, never dealt with RRP so I can't help you there. I run a 70T 48P RW spur and a 33T spur and it meshes fine.

Can't help with premounts though, as we run on wood here, kinda like ice racing, gotta have spiked tyres.

Regards

Neal
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Old 10-30-2009, 10:18 AM   #11279
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Originally Posted by Redwood View Post
I would start at around 4.5 and add teath depending on temps after your run. Hard to give solid numbers these days with all the various speedo options, timing etc.

As for spurs, I know that RW racing, associated and Kimbrough spurs all work, never dealt with RRP so I can't help you there. I run a 70T 48P RW spur and a 33T spur and it meshes fine.

Can't help with premounts though, as we run on wood here, kinda like ice racing, gotta have spiked tyres.

Regards

Neal
Thanks for the input, got her in the mail and it has a different spur hub on it so I'm all good in that area. And I'm gonna go with 64p but thanks for the FDR input I'll just buy a bunch of gears and see what works, if nothing else I can use'm on my pan car.
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Old 10-30-2009, 09:29 PM   #11280
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I'm still new to the on road scene and grew tired of having to order cyclone parts when there is plenty of associated parts on the wall of my lhs. I've got a tc5r in route to me and was curious as to what lipos will fit with no mods. Or is it better to go with one of the lipo trays that I've seen. I think I saw somewhere that exotek, associated both have one. Amy recommendations? I've been running the protek 3800 30c lipo in my cyclone with no issues and no mods so I probably won't go much larger then a 3800. Will it fit without any mods? Is the tray more of a balance issue? One more thing, are there any must upgrade parts? Thanks!
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